The Berat Castle is one of the most impressive castles in Albania. Standing on a rocky hill above the UNESCO town of Berat, the fortress has a bird’s-eye view of the city’s famous “thousand windows.”
While the charming Ottoman-era white homes popularized that nickname, the crown jewel of the city remains the imposing castle overlooking them. With a history that spans thousands of years and includes conquering forces such as the Roman, Byzantine, and Ottoman Empires it’s not hard to see why.
It also helps that the current structures, created in the 13th century and beyond, remain mostly intact. In fact, the castle grounds are still considered home to a number of busy residents. Homeowners sell everything from jams to rugs, to handmade crafts right in front of their doors. It creates an active, enticing atmosphere for the daily visitors who make the trek up to explore Berat Castle.
Entrance | When I was last there, Berat Castle had an entrance fee of 300 Lek (about 3 USD) from 9:00 – 18:00. However, the castle is technically open 24 hours, so entering at any point before or after should allow you to explore freely. In the warmer months, this is preferable as the Albanian sun can be unbearably cruel at times. If you enter during working hours I suggest paying the fee, it’s worth the price of admission for the length of time you’ll most likely spend inside. But, if you find yourself taking an alternative path up the hill, you’ll find free entrances along the outer walls.
Now that I’ve given a basic overview, here are 8 things to do in “The Citadel of Berat.”
Feel free to use these as a self-guide to Berat Castle.
SEE THE GIANT HEAD OF CONSTANTINE THE GREAT
Appearing beneath one of the stone walls, the giant head sculpture of Constantine the Great is hard to miss. Seriously, this thing is as big as a bear!
If you notice all of the Byzantine-style churches throughout town, it shouldn’t surprise you that a carving of such a figurehead is within the castle walls. After all, Constantine was the first Roman emperor to convert to Christianity, as well as the founder of Constantinople.
It’s something I would expect to see in a museum, or maybe outside a Las Vegas hotel, so it was my surprise when I locked eyes with the Goliath-sized bust. However, the lack of anticipation was what made a spectacular find. Oh, and a beautiful field of vision of the surrounding countryside.
CHECK OUT THE STUNNING HOLY TRINITY CHURCH
Out of all of Berat’s churches, and there are a lot, the Holy Trinity Church is the most likely to catch your eye. Perched on a hill beneath the main fortress, the Byzantine-era church has tremendous panoramic views of Mount Shpirag and the Osumi River below.
It’s also one of the main reasons Berat’s historic center became a UNESCO World Heritage Site. Zigzagging steps lead from the base of the walls up to the church, and its picturesque qualities highlight all the splendor of classic Byzantine architecture.
Although you’re unlikely to see the inside of the Holy Trinity Church, it’s said to have inscriptions of a former early 14th-century Berat governor. This dates the building back to possibly the late 13th century. The only way to see the inside of the church is to find its key master, which I found to be an impossible task.
Despite this, the Holy Trinity Church is worth the visit. I would even go as far as saying it’s the main reason to make the journey up to Berat Castle.
DON'T FORGET ALL THE OTHER CHURCHES
While the Holy Trinity Church is the flashiest, the other churches are just as deserving of a stopover. You’ll notice them around almost every corner of the castle’s winding streets. They each have an interesting history of their own.
On the exteriors of some of the churches, you’ll find informational signs that share brief details about the structure. When I was there, a local man named Vasilij (a sort of unofficial tour guide of the place at the time) shared some more tidbits about each place. I can’t be positive if everything he told me was true or if he had a great mind for historical fiction. But, I lean towards him telling mostly the truth so he would be tipped at the end.
Tip | If you’re bold, you can stick your hands through some of the church windows with your phone and get a picture of the decorative interiors.
Either way, the many churches are quite beautiful and not to be overlooked. Here are a few you’ll find on offline maps and should keep an eye out for…
St. Demetrius Church | A post-Byzantine chapel with interior paintings from the 17th century.
St. Mary of Blachernae Church | One of Berat’s oldest churches. It has a decorated floor and gorgeous fresco paintings.
St. Theodore’s Church | A single-nave church whose remnants date back to before Ottoman rule.
If you’re interested in religious artifacts, especially those from the Byzantine times, you can check out the Onufri Iconography Museum. It’s housed in The Cathedral of the “Assumption of Saint Mary” and costs 400 Lek. Opening and closing times vary throughout the seasons.
October 1 – May 14
Open every day 9:00 – 16:00
Except Sunday 9:00 – 14:00
Closed on Mondays
May 15 – September 30
Open every day 9:00 – 19:00
VISIT THE REMAINS OF THE RED MOSQUE
You’ll find that most of the architecture within the walls of Berat Castle is from the Byzantine era. However, the remains of the Red Mosque stand in ruins, reminding you that the Ottoman Empire once had a huge influence on the city.
Records state that the mosque is probably one of the oldest in all of Albania. However, exact dates can’t be put to the Red Mosque. It’s assumed that it was built soon after the invasion of Berat. An Ottoman travel writer once wrote that the mosque was an old, lonely, and strange mosque built in the antiquity style.
Seeing the well-preserved minaret shoot up in the air is a great way to remember all the history the castle holds. Even if the records have yet to set the facts straight.
GRAB A DRINK OR MEAL WITHIN THE WALLS
Berat is one of Albania’s top food destinations. It’s a city that highlights the best aspects of traditional Albanian Cuisine. It just so happens that the castle has some amazing restaurants that offer these classic meals. Since it’s close to the wine region, you’ll also find some authentic Albanian wines at the restaurants.
Here are some great restaurant options for an after-tour lunch or sunset dinner within the castle walls:
Temi Albanian Food | One of the best restaurants in Berat, period. You’ll find all the staples here, including musaka, qofte, stuffed peppers, and stuffed eggplant.
Bar – Restaurant Iljesa | Delicious traditional food with an amazing view.
Te Zalua | Another place with a great view. It’s a nice spot on the way to the Berat Viewing Platform to grab a drink and have some food.
If you find yourself enjoying Albanian food and wanting to learn a little more about how the cuisine is prepared, I suggest trying out a cooking class. There’s a highly regarded family-run workshop that takes place right inside the Berat Castle walls. If you’re interested you can check it out here or here.
LOOK INTO THE DARKNESS OF THE CHURCHES WATER CISTERN
I was startled when I peeked through the windows of the cistern to find a large dark room with water settled at its bottom. It blends into the rest of the castle as if it were just another barrack or stable. It’s nothing like the famed Istanbul Cistern, but it’s nice to see how historic castles were able to build up a steady drinking supply.
Be careful exploring this area as there is a hole on the top that drops about 20 feet into the cistern. The stairs leading into the room end about 10 feet from the floor as well, making it dangerous, but also adding to the mystique of the place.
FIND THE BEST VIEW FROM THE OBSERVATION DECK
As with most hilltop fortresses, the view from Berat Castle is one of its best highlights. Where’s the best place for that view in Berat Castle? The Berat Viewing Platform.
It lies at the far south end of the fortress and allows you to admire Berat’s scenery from up above. Similar to its counterpart, the Gorica Ruins, you’ll be able to see all of the city’s main highlights.
Directly below you, you’ll see the rooftops and famed windows of the Mangalem Quarter and the splendid Church of St. Michael. You’ll get a glimpse of the famous Gorica Bridge, one of Albania’s oldest Ottoman bridges, running across the vibrant blue waters of the Osumi River. It connects Berat with its other ancient district: the Gorica Quarter.
The aerial perspective of the district’s burnt orange roofs and maze-like cobbled streets is a marvel to behold. It allows you to experience the perspective of a medieval guard on the walls.
HEAD UP TO THE MAIN FORTRESS
You can’t have a castle without a main fortress, and Berat’s happens to have a three-hundred-sixty-degree view of the area’s surroundings. While it’s not in perfect condition, the stairs leading up the main tower are still in great shape. You’ll also notice how sturdy the walls are, along with the remnants of the old barracks.
Only a few steps above the Holy Trinity Church, the main fortress seems to be a gathering place for all. When I was there, a couple was having a picnic, a music video was being shot, and people were having an afternoon workout. It’s a wonderful place to come and look down at all the happenings within the castle walls.
Inside the inner walls, you’ll also find the ruins of the White Mosque. While there isn’t much to look out for now, besides some walls and a spiral staircase, it’s neat to see what was most likely the prayer hall for the local rulers and troops.
OTHER THINGS TO KNOW ABOUT BERAT CASTLE
GETTING THERE | The castle is directly off of Rruga Mihal Komnena. This is the steep street that leads from the Mangalem Quarter and the newer part of the city to the complex. If you follow it up, you’ll go straight to the front gate.
About halfway up this street is a small trail through the trees. This is the trail you should take if you want to avoid the main entrance fee.
STAY IN THE CASTLE | I mentioned earlier that the Berat Castle was an active, running fortress with residents that still live there. That also means you’ll have the opportunity to stay in the lovely castle. Here are a few places worth spending your nights.
- Guest House Luli | budget-friendly option
- Berati Castle Hotel | reasonably priced and beautiful
- KRIS Guesthouse | fantastic property
- Hotel Klea | another great option
TOUR OPTIONS | If you want a more detailed look at the Berat Castle, there are a few tour options with guides that will provide a more in-depth history of Berat and the castle complex.
- Here is one that explores the castle with a dedicated local guide.
- This one also focuses on Berat’s old town and castle.
- Here is one that combines Berat Castle and the amazing ruins in Apollonia.
- Here is a nice tour option if you’re coming from Tirana that includes a trip to Belshi Lake. Here is one that is also highly rated and focuses more on Berat.
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