A sleepy village in the winter and a bustling seaside paradise in the summer, Dhërmi is one of Albania’s most remarkable destinations.
Just north of Himarë, on the Albanian Riviera, it’s a tiny place that packs a big punch. Steep mountains meet calming waters, rock arches appear along the seafront, and the blue sky turns into a clash of vibrant oranges and deep reds as the sun goes down.
I thoroughly enjoyed my time here, whether exploring the hidden beaches, hiking above an extensive canyon system, or wandering through picturesque Mediterranean towns.
There is just an abundance of fun things to do in Dhërmi and the surrounding coastal area.
This is my short Dhërmi guide, with tips on what to do around town, where to eat and stay, plus a few tips on navigating the nearby beaches.
Here is a list of the 9 best things to do around Dhërmi, Albania!
HEAD TO THE BEACH
When you visit Dhermi, the first thing you should do is head to the beach. It’s probably the whole reason you’re there in the first place!
What you need to know about the town is that it actually revolves around two separate beaches, Dhermi Beach and Drymades Beach. They are both rocky and have stunning views. Here is a little overview of each one.
DHERMI BEACH
Dhërmi Beach (Dhërmiu Beach) is known for its clear blue waters that are surrounded by rugged mountains and steep rock that drop into the sea. A promenade lined with restaurants and cafes runs along the length of the beach, and boats that double as water taxis sit beneath the cliffside bars.
Sun umbrellas cover almost every inch of the beach during the summer, offering much-needed shade, but at a price.
These can cost up to 1,000 LEK per sunbed, although I’ve heard of people getting charged even higher. If you’re not up for it, though, you can always find an empty spot for free, as this is theoretically a public beach.
Dhërmi Beach stretches from Theodor’s Bay in the south to Sanur Beach House in the north. It’s about a mile long in total, but the shoreline isn’t always possible to walk along the whole way. The northern section is dominated by beach bars and restaurants sitting atop cliffs where the pebble beach disappears during high tide.
Many of these restaurants are seasonal, so if you come during the shoulder seasons, there’s a chance they’re closed.
BOAT TOURS FROM DHERMI BEACH
Several water taxis and boat tour options leave from Dhërmi Beach. These go to popular places like the Pirate Cave past Theodor’s Bay, various other hidden caves, and the beaches near Himarë. You can also catch boats to the spectacular Grama Bay and Saint Andreas Bay to the north, too. Most of these will need to be in person once you get to Dhërmi.
However, there are a handful of tours to check out online, like this one on Viator and these on GetYourGuide.
Most of the online tours, though, aren’t up year-round. So, it’s good to check closer to your date of travel to see what current ones are actually available.
DRYMADES BEACH
Drymades Beach is said to be the most beautiful beach in all of Albania.
While I’m not sure if I agree, it’s definitely one of the prettier beaches I’ve seen. It’s less developed than Dhërmi Beach, but that’s rapidly changing every summer. Resorts are springing up, and with them, sun umbrellas.
Technically, Drymades Beach runs along the coastline of Dhërmi’s neighborhood of Gjilekë near the town of Palasë. If you look at maps, it might look like a section of the adjacent Palasa Beach, but it isn’t.
On the southern end of Drymades, near Meguci Bay, is a section called Pepperon The Beach. This is where you’ll find thatched beach umbrellas, bean bags, and bar services. An umbrella with 2 sunbeds could run as high as 2500 Lek, but the atmosphere is lively if that’s what you’re looking for.
I find the northern end more beautiful. This is where the epic sea arch stretches out into the turquoise Mediterranean waters. And, past that is where you can find the more secret places to escape the crowds of beachgoers.
EXPLORE THE HIDDEN COVES BESIDE DRYMADES BEACH
When I mentioned secret places, what I meant was the hidden coves next to Drymades Beach.
This area is where Palasa Beach meets Drymades Beach, before it eventually turns into a long pebble shoreline in front of the ‘Green Coast’ villa area. A small stairway from the Summer Dream Restaurant leads through the massive sea arch to a handful of concealed inlets.
The first of these inlets often has sun loungers and the umbrellas for rental from the connecting restaurant. But, as you traverse the rocks, the further inlets should be free from them.
Each plot of sand is surrounded by rocky terrain and has fewer and fewer people. At least this was the case in the early summer. The only caveat is you’ll have to do a bit of rock climbing to see each new cove. With this in mind, it’s best to come here with some shoes or hardy sandals.
I enjoyed the exploration aspect of this the most; however, I could see it being an obstacle for many. But, if you are up for the challenge, a quiet paradise awaits!
TAKE A BREAK AT ONE OF THE SEASIDE RESTAURANTS
There is a common theme amongst the restaurants in Dhërmi, and it’s their spectacular views. Soft glimmers of light beam off the deep blue waters, and Greek islands dot the horizon. Faint sounds of the crashing sea can be heard, and a light breeze can be felt in the open-air seating.
You can’t go wrong with the majority of restaurants in the coastal town. Whether you want to sip on a coffee or enjoy some freshly caught seafood, make sure to take a break from the harsh Albanian sun at one of the seaside eateries.
Here’s a list of some of my favorites.
Budget-Friendly
Drymades Village Restaurant | Okay, so it’s not the seaside, but it’s a perfect place if you’re on a budget. The food is simple, traditional, and best of all, cheap! Most of the locals can be seen hanging out here, and chances are it’ll be one of the few places open in the off-season.
Mr. Chicken Dhermi | Also not seaside, but a great place to get Albanian fast food. Grab a souvlaki to go and head to the beach for the views.
Medium Priced
Diego Bar Pizzeri Restorant | This is a perfect place to grab a pizza and watch the sunset. The food is straightforward and tasty, and the prices are very fair.
Hotel Restorant Luciano | The food wasn’t to die for, but it wasn’t bad either. However, if you can snag a table by the railing, you’ll find yourself with a view of the whole of Dhërmi Beach. It’s worth a visit for that alone. Plus, the iconic Luciano’s Fork sits on the rock island just in front of the patio.
Luxury
Drymades Bungalows Restaurant | I read some conflicting reviews about the restaurant; however, I enjoyed my meal here. It’s pricey, but the terrace is beautiful, and Drymades Beach is the perfect place to come for sunset. Just a fair warning, the menu was only in Albanian (but most of the staff can speak a bit of English).
Summer Dream Restaurant Terrace | It’s near the sea arch and offers some tasty fresh seafood dishes. I’d consider it one of the more quality places in terms of food in the Drymades area.
WATCH THE MAGNIFICENT SUNSET
Sunsets in Dhërmi are, in a word, gorgeous.
Despite staying quite a ways up the hill, my partner and I managed to make it down to the beach every day at eventide for picture-perfect panoramas. It’s hard not to.
One night, you might get serious California beach vibes from the views. And the next, the sky looks like a colorful canvas painting.
If you want to switch things up, trek up the hill to Dhërmi’s Old Town for an aerial picture of the surrounding coastline, or down to Drymades Beach for a different perspective.
My personal suggestion is to head to one of the restaurants and have dinner with a view, or saunter across the stony beach until the stars twinkle in the sky. Or, just watch the outline of ships hurry across the Ionian sea while you lounge on the rocky shore.
Whichever you choose, make sure not to miss the sunset while you’re in Dhërmi.
EXPLORE DHERMI’S OLD TOWN
Cobblestone streets and burnt orange rooftops form the striking view of Dhërmi’s Old Town. It lies on the sloping side of a steep mountain and has the look of a village on the Greek islands.
With a slow-paced feel and alluring cottages, it feels like a treat to wander around here.
The neighborhood was quiet when I visited, which added a pleasant mystique to it, and a fierce wind was blowing. This is common in this part of Albania, and made the journey uphill a little more bearable. Don’t be surprised if you find yourself roaming the narrow streets amongst a myriad of swirling leaves.
Here are a few different things to explore in the Dhërmi Old Town:
Monastery of Saint Mary (Manastiri i Shën Mërisë) | There are quite a few churches to explore in the tiny village; however, this is the one that stands out the most. It sits atop the hill, overlooking the stone streets of Dhërmi and the jagged coastline of the region. The trek up takes determination and a bit of fitness, but the result is a breathtaking view.
Church of Saint Thanas (Kisha e Shen Thanasit) | A beautiful Orthodox church with a similar bell tower as the monastery. It sits just below it on the hill and also has gorgeous views.
St Michael’s Church | Another church that you can find in the old town. It’s tiny and not very noticeable, but it was reconstructed because of its historical significance.
Church of Saint Spyridon (Kisha e Shen Spiridhonit) | Its iconic blue dome makes it one of the most noticeable sights in Dhërmi Old Town. Situated near the school, the church is also just a handful of steps away from the starting point of The Mills Trail.
Petro Marko Square | A nice little square next to the Petro Marko House with a small statue of Petro Marko, the famous Albanian writer who was born here in Dhërmi.
Saint Ilia Orthodox Church (Shen Ilia) | A modern church that sits even further up the mountain from the Monastery of Saint Mary. It’s not really part of the Old Town, but can be accessed by a dirt road that trails off the main highway about a kilometer east toward Vuno.
TAKE A STROLL THROUGH DHERMI’S PAST AT THE MILLS TRAIL
One of the most underrated things to do in Dhërmi is the short hike known as The Mills Trail.
It leads from the bottom of the village down toward the sea, and vice versa. The hike is very easy and takes you on the same path that the locals used to walk back in the day.
There are plenty of cool things to see, including a waterfall, signposts with historical tidbits about famous people from Dhërmi, and, of course, the town’s old mills. All in all, it takes anywhere from half an hour to an hour to complete.
It’s something I feel like not many people do when visiting the beach destination, but it’s the perfect route for those heading from the village down to the water.
For a more detailed look at the trail, you can check out the ‘The Mills Trail’ guide I wrote.
Make sure to fill up your water bottle with fresh spring water from the mountain. There are running taps right next to the trail’s entrance (the one by Dhërmi’s old town).
HIKE ALONG THE CANYON OF GJIPE
Located between Vuno and Dhërmi, the Canyon of Gjipe is one of the Albanian Riviera’s true treasures. The canyon heads from inland to the sea and feels like a vertigo-inducing, almost bottomless pit.
The best part…you can hike almost the majority of it!
It’s a really pretty hike, with plenty of panoramic viewpoints along the way. The whole trail is perfectly marked and will take 1-2 hours (depending on how long you stop at the viewpoints). In some parts, you’re almost on the very edge, looking down towards the rocky floor.
The color contrast of red dirt and green vegetation makes it feel like you’re in a desert, until you peer out to the never-ending Mediterranean Sea. The track leads straight to the coast, and to the next place I cover in this post.
Getting There | You can get to the starting point by taking either a car or a bus. Buses don’t go too often, so make sure to ask the driver about buses heading back, or you risk getting stuck. You can also walk there, but it’s about 5 miles each way along a hilly road, plus the trail itself. The road toward the Canyon of Gjipe is gorgeous, though, as the magnificent Ionian waters are off to one side.
Alternatively, you can reach it by boat, but then you’d need to walk uphill to see the top of the canyon. Motor boat taxis leave from Dhërmi Beach and drop you at Gjipe Beach.
VISIT THE SPECTACULAR GJIPE BEACH
The floor of the Canyon of Gjipe eventually turns into an amazing white sand beach that unsurprisingly goes by the name of Gjipe Beach.
Hidden from the view of the road and only accessible from land by four-wheel drive and foot, it’s a perfect place for adventure seekers. A wild camping ground stands on one side of the beach, and rock climbing and kayaking seem like the norm.
Small bars and makeshift restaurants line the sand. Sunbathers are scattered about, and boats zip in and out of the tiny bay. In fact, during the peak season, you can grab a boat taxi from Dhërmi to Gjipe Beach as I mentioned above.
It’s not a long trip, and it normally stops by the secret Pirate’s Cave as well.
Most coastal boat tours will stop by Gjipe Beach as well, as it’s close to Himarë and the surrounding beaches. This is an option for those with a strictly scheduled Albania itinerary, but I suggest heading here separately to hang out for the whole day.
For more information, feel free to check out my ‘Canyon of Gjipe and Gjipe Beach’ guide.
HEAD TO ONE OF THE NEARBY TOWNS
While popular places like Sarandë and Vlorë are a bit far for a day trip, there are some cool towns right around the corner from Dhërmi worth seeing.
All of these are possible to reach by bus, but a car would be best if you want to see them in full. They all have a lot in common with Dhërmi, including Greek vibes, hilltop old towns, and pebble beaches with calm seas.
Here are the ones that make sense as day trips:
HIMARE
Himarë is the most obvious, and rightfully so.
It’s just a really cool place to spend a day and is easily one of my favorite places in all of Albania. It’s known for its ragged olive groves, bright, calming waters, and picturesque beaches. There are a ton of things to do here, so choices are varied. These are some of my recommendations:
- Explore all the beaches. My favorites are the expansive Livadhi Beach, the hidden Filikuri Beach, and the tiny Aquarium Beach.
- Hike up to the ancient hilltop castle and marvel at the surrounding mountains and waters.
- Make your way to the wonderful Panorama Bay to see Porto Palermo Castle and the hidden submarine bunker.
- Grab some fresh seafood and a Himarë salad at a seaside restaurant.
If you want to learn more about my love for this extremely charming town, check out my ‘Things to Do in Himarë’ guide.
VUNO AND OTHERS
Several little villages line the waters of the Albanian Riviera near Dhërmi.
Vuno | Just to the south of Dhërmi, next to the Gjipe Canyon, is the similarly looking town of Vuno. There are some nice old churches in the village, wonderful eateries, and it’s close to a few beautiful hidden beaches, including Gjipe Beach. It sits about halfway between Dhërmi and Himarë.
Qeparo | You’ll find this tiny village past Porto Palermo. It has an abandoned hilltop house with amazing views, a pebble beach with a nice promenade, and possible camping spots a short walk away. You can also walk to Porto Palermo Castle and Heart Beach from here.
Llogara National Park | It’s not a town, but it’s worth mentioning nonetheless. Appearing within the monstrous Ceraunian Mountains, the national park shows off Albania’s diverse landscapes. It’s an intimidating drive up a mountain road that zig zags what feels like a hundred times, but in the end, you arrive at some beautiful nature and hiking trails.
GETTING AROUND DHERMI
Just about everything you do around the town will be done by walking. There are taxis, but they aren’t so common, and for everything along the coast, you can hop on a boat.
Multiple buses to and from Sarandë and Vlorë leave daily for Dhërmi. The schedule isn’t exactly fixed, but information centers and signs should point you toward the correct routes.
When in doubt, head to the bus stations in each of the cities and ask the drivers for the Dhërmi bus. They should point you in the right direction.
Dhërmi’s bus station (maps) is just a random spot on the side of the main highway near where the crossing street from the sea runs. All buses leave from here, and it’s a trek to get to. Taxis usually hang out for those who need a ride down to their property.
My ‘Albania Bus’ article covers common routes and known timetables in the area. I keep it as up-to-date as I can, and it should come in handy.
WHERE TO STAY IN DHERMI
There are essentially three areas for accommodations in Dhërmi. The first is by the Dhërmi Beach near the water, the second is everything up the hill close to the old town, and the third is the Drymades Beach area. All of these have some advantages and disadvantages.
Many of these are seasonal, so when traveling outside of summer, be aware that the options are slimmer.
Here are some recommendations:
Dhori House Dhermi | Budget-conscious property that is situated within walking distance to all areas. My partner and I stayed here for a week and enjoyed our stay. It’s family-run, and the owner was very sweet to us.
Gogo’s Boutique Hotel | A beloved hotel with several room types, nice views, and modern amenities. It’s up the hill between Drymades Beach and Dhërmi, and stays open in the shoulder season.
Essos Villas | A cute property close to Dhërmi Beach and the cliffside restaurants. It has nice mid-range villas that are budget-friendly in the shoulder seasons. Pretty wonderful views as well.
Oscar’s Apartments Drymades & Spartila Apartments | Two well-liked apartment buildings with kitchens, spectacular views, and all the amenities you could want for a longer stay.
Rahoni Park & Apartments | The apartments are simply stunning, with sea view terraces and private kitchens. It ranges from mid-range to luxury and has plenty of space for family stays.
Vesper Suites | Luxury hotel with suites and villas that sits directly on Drymades Beach.
For more options, check here.
