Phan Rang–Tháp Chàm, or simply Phan Rang, is what I’d call an off-the-beaten-path destination. Located in Southern Vietnam, between the more popular beach towns of Mui Ne and Nha Trang, it rarely gets more than a handful of foreign visitors.
And the few that do visit are expats and the odd kiteboarder chasing the winds. However, I feel the town deserves a stopover, especially if you’re travelling by motorbike.
My partner and I stayed for a week, and while that felt like more than enough time to visit the main tourist sights, it was just the right amount to explore the food scene. Some of my favorite meals in Vietnam ended up being from Phan Rang.
That, along with seeing some interesting Cham towers, the late afternoon views from the beach, and an interesting temple, made for an enjoyable stay. This article covers that trip, including things to do in Phan Rang, a mini food guide, cafes worth popping into, and a few day trip options.
Here is my guide to Phan Rang–Tháp Chàm, Vietnam.
Visit The Cham Towers
All along the south and central Vietnamese coastline are remnants of the former Champa Kingdom, known as Cham towers. And the Phan Rang – Thap Cham area is home to one of my favorite ones.
The religious complex here is called Po Klong Garai Temple, and it was once at the center of Panduranga, a former Cham principality. It was built as a way to commemorate a king, and dates back hundreds of years to the 13th century.
The main temple sits atop a small hill and has been kept in relatively good shape, with a small souvenir space and museum of sorts built at its base. The architecture is quite stunning, with intricate carving above the doorways and the classic red brick look throughout.
On the ground outside the temples, there is a rock half-buried that has been kept here and bears ancient script from the former kingdom.
Travel Tip | This is the only site I’ll mention in this article that’s in Thap Cham. So, if you’re traveling by train and don’t expect to rent a vehicle, I suggest visiting when you arrive at or leave the train station. It’s super close to the station and will only take about half an hour to see.
Entrance | 20k VND (parking is an extra 5k VND)
Getting There | The Po Klong Garai Temple complex is just behind Thap Cham Train Station, a block away on the parallel road. There’s a public bus that gets you right near it, but I could never find the exact bus stops it goes by in Phan Rang. It’s an easy Grab trip or motorbike ride away, though.
Explore The Phan Rang Food Scene
What surprised me most in Phan Rang was just how good the food was. I mean, after spending months and months in Vietnam, I shouldn’t be shocked, but I had some of my favorite meals here.
There’s a really nice mix of authentic eateries in town, all focusing on Vietnamese and local favorites. I should mention in advance that outside of breakfast, there aren’t many Western options. But basics like burgers and the like can be found, although I didn’t feel the need for anything like that with how good the Phan Rang food scene was.
Here are my recommended restaurants:
Cơm Gà Chú Ba (maps) | The name translates to Uncle Ba’s Chicken Rice, and unsurprisingly it has really good chicken rice. The meal looked so simple, but the chicken was so flavorful, the side veggies were a great addition, and it’s very budget-friendly. Oh, and the guys working there were super welcoming and friendly.
Quán Mai Thi (maps) | Despite there being a bit of a language barrier, the family that runs this noodle shop is just extremely nice. They also serve some really good soups. You’ll have a choice between bún riêu (crab and vermicelli soup), canh bún (crab and tomato soup), and hủ tiếu (noodle soup with pork broth). I tried a crab soup, and it was tasty, but I’d only suggest it to those who love fragrant seafood broths. I also had a hủ tiếu xá xíu that had char siu pork, and it was both cheap and amazing.
Bún Bắp Bò Huy Mập M K1 (maps) | Another noodle shop with various bún bò (beef and noodle) and hủ tiếu dishes. The beef broth was nice here, and the veggies used for topping were very fresh.
Gà Nướng Cơm Cháy (maps) | The name means grilled chicken with crispy rice, and that is indeed the thing to get here. It can get quite busy, so they do sometimes run out of that particular dish, but they have other nice meals, too. I had a really wonderful beef salad one night. It caters to larger groups, so if you’re coming with friends you can get a bunch of different things and share. And like most other places in Phan Rang, the staff was super welcoming.
Bò Lá Lốt Beng Beng (maps) | I saved the best for last. This was one of my favorite meals in all of Vietnam, and it’s pretty easy to recommend the bò lá lốt here. This specific dish is grilled beef wrapped in lolot leaf. They serve it with short rice noodles, lettuce, basil, plus other greens and a rice paper to wrap everything together. There’s a combo meal that is meant for two people and includes trà chanh thái xanh, which is an iced tea drink with green tea leaves, fresh lime juice, and sugar syrup. They run out quickly here, so it’s best to go for an early dinner!
A FEW MORE PLACES FOR GOOD MEASURE
Quán Cơm 100 | For cơm trưa, a typical home-cooked midday rice meal
Jeju Restaurant – Phan Rang | For Korean BBQ
Nướng Ngói Số 1 – Chi Nhánh 2 | For BBQ on roof top tiles
Enjoy The Night Market
Phan Rang’s night market, better known as the Ninh Thuan Tourist Night Market, is a bustling local street near Phan Rang-Thap Cham City Square.
Despite the word tourist being in its name, it’s mostly a place dedicated to local essentials, children’s toys, and budget-friendly clothing. Which is quite nice if you need any of those items, but just don’t expect anything like the famous Thailand night markets or the ones in larger Vietnamese cities.
It is, however, a nice place to kill some time in the evening. It’s lively after the sun goes down and there’s decent street food in the surrounding area. Occasionally a live event will happen, too. And the park across the street isn’t half bad for a nighttime coffee or drink, especially if you enjoy the authentic plastic chair seating the country has embraced.
DAY MARKETS IN PHAN RANG – THAP CHAM
If you’re looking for fresh produce, ingredients to cook with, or simply want to experience a daytime market in Vietnam, then there are a few in the Phan Rang – Thap Cham area. All these are quite similar, with an indoor market that spills out to the surrounding streetside and the extent of that being the biggest difference.
- Chợ Phan Rang (Phan Rang Market)
- Chợ Động (Dong Market)
- Chợ Phước Mỹ (Phuoc My Market)
See The City Monuments
Near where the night market begins, two prominent historical representations of the city stand on each side of the Phan Rang-Thap Cham City Square.
At the northern edge is the Ninh Thuận Province Victory Monument, a larger-than-life sculpture built after the war. Almost every city in the country has a victory monument, and like this one, they tend to depict war heroes done in the brutalist architecture style.
Events are occasionally held at the one in Phan Rang, and at night it becomes a place for kids to play and families to relax.
Opposite the monument is the pyramid-shaped Ninh Thuận Museum. This is where you can learn a bit about the regional history, from ancient times through the Cham people, and later on the modern era.
It’s not a bad place to visit if you’re interested in any of these, but it’s not exactly a must-see. Most of the exhibits give information in Vietnamese, but there are plenty of artifacts to keep you busy for half an hour. The entry price is 15k VND.
Hit The Beaches Around Phan Rang
Most travelers who end up in Phan Rang do so because it’s one of the prominent beach cities along the coastal roads in southern and central Vietnam. While I wouldn’t consider it the best destination in the region for a beach vacation, it is still a decent spot to swim and lounge in the sun.
I’ll cover the main beaches around town and share a few more later on in the day trip section.
Phan Rang Beach
The easiest beach to reach from Phan Rang is the centrally located Phan Rang Public Beach. It can be accessed by Bình Sơn Sea Park, so it’s also commonly called Binh Son Beach.
You’ll know when you’re there, because it gets extremely busy. Crowds dot the dark sandy shoreline, taking up most areas from the edge of the park down to the water’s edge. Since it really hasn’t garnered much international attention, most of these beachgoers are friendly locals who occasionally like to chat. My partner and I ended up spending about half an hour talking to a family whose son was learning English.
In this way, Phan Rang Beach is authentic as they get. But if you’ve visited any of the less touristy Vietnamese beaches, you’ll understand that the positives come with some negatives. Trash and plastic are usually left behind, and while it tends to stay out of the water, you can very much expect it to stay put on the sand.
Besides that, it has spectacular views of the sea and the northern coastline, plenty of food nearby, and a lively atmosphere in the evening.
Ninh Chu Beach
Ninh Chu Beach is sort of an extension of Phan Rang Beach to the north. It has a similar vibe, but tends to be less crowded because it isn’t as easy to reach. This also means less trash, but the same beautiful views.
The water in the bay is calm here, is cool but not cold, and is lined with resorts and guesthouses. If you want to escape the waterfront for a while, you can head to Trung Son Ancient Pagoda (Trùng Sơn Cổ Tự) for a hilltop temple experience.
This part of Phan Rang is also very popular among windsurfers and kiteboarders. The northern part of the bay and up past the national park to Mỹ Hòa has great winds and is often seen as a popular alternative to Mui Ne.
Relax At A Cafe
It doesn’t matter where you’re at in Vietnam; you’ll always find a decent cafe or two. Phan Rang is no different in this regard.
And since there was a semblance of an expat community at one point, you can expect a nice mix of traditional Vietnamese cafes and more westernized ones. This means if you’re searching for espresso-based pours, you’ll have options. Many of these places offer bubble teas and juices, too, which is nice on hotter days.
Some cafe spots I enjoyed include:
Ing Coffee Roasters | A stylish cafe that caters to the specialty coffee crowd. There are some really great drinks here, with your choice of coffee bean and style. They do Japanese tea as well as a lovely cold brew.
Pharang Café | A photogenic place that seems to go for the “Instagrammable aesthetic,” maybe a bit too much at times. But the iced drinks are quite good on a hot day, and if you’re into sweeter bubble teas, you’ll want to go here.
2Men Coffee | A spacious, modern cafe with a bigger city atmosphere. It’s a decent place to get work done, and the espresso and other Italian-style coffees are pretty good. They’re also known for their ice cream and iced teas.
CƯ XÁ CAFÉ | A nice, calm café a couple of blocks from the beach. The prices are excellent, the Vietnamese coffees are of high quality, and they have some excellent-looking iced drinks for those escaping the midday sun.
SOME MORE OPTIONS
The Corner Coffee | For good coffee and breakfast
OH Juices Coffee – Khu K1 | For juices and bubble tea
Mori Cafe Phan Rang | For matcha drinks and the stylish decor
Stop By Quan Am Pagoda
Every city in Vietnam seems to have a temple that stands out amongst the rest. In Phan Rang, that’s Quan Am Pagoda.
I don’t consider it to be epic by any means, but it’s close to Phan Rang Beach and is a quiet, peaceful temple to wander around. It’s quite a large complex, with a massive gate at the front, a few lovely prayer rooms with golden Buddhas, and several outdoor areas.
The garden is serene, and features large shady trees and plenty of quirky monuments on the lawns. There is also a pond, and behind it a massive standing white Buddha that must be over 20 feet tall.
I couldn’t find too much information on its history, but its architectural style is pretty typical for Vietnamese Buddhist pagodas, and it dates back a few centuries.
Getting There | As you’re heading to Phan Rang Beach, turn right at the large roundabout to south Yên Ninh Street. There is a turn-off on Trần Quý Cáp Street, where some signs are pointing you in the right direction.
Day Trip Options From Phan Rang
I’ll start by saying you’ll need to rent a motorbike or car to see most of the other highlights outside of Phan Rang. But if you’re up for that, then you can see some stunning sights. The coast here is wonderful to cruise along and gives you an opportunity to see some of Vietnam’s natural beauty.
Here are some day trip excursions for the adventurous soul:
Nam Cương Sand Dunes | Just south of Phan Rang are the picturesque Nam Cương Sand Dunes (Đồi cát Nam Cương). While most people have heard of Mui Ne’s white and red dunes, these are far more off-the-beaten-track for the foreign traveler. They are also close enough to hire a driver from town, too. Just make sure to tame your expectations a bit; they won’t wow you like the Te Paki Sand Dunes or anything, but if you want that desert oasis feel, they scratch the itch.
Southern Ninh Thuan Coastal Road | Phan Rang sits in the middle of a long seaside road that winds along the region’s rugged coastline. It’s called the Ninh Thuan Coastal Road, and there are a ton of great stop-offs for those who love a short road trip. It goes as far south as Ca Na, and has mostly scenic viewpoints in the south, although some spots like The Precarious Rock at Mui Dinh and Mui Dinh Lighthouse are worth looking at.
Northern Ninh Thuan Coastal Road | The northern portion of Ninh Thuan Coastal Road is much livelier than the southern. It goes up towards Nam Can Ranh, and there’s much more to see. Mỹ Tân Fishing Village is at the beginning, followed by the unique rock formation around Ninh Thuan Stone Park. This is followed by Nui Chua Ninh Thuan National Park, where you can do some coastal trekking, and then a few lesser-visited beaches like Thung Beach and Binh Tien Beach. Hopefully these stay that way and avoid resorts moving to take up free access.
Getting Around Phan Rang–Tháp Chàm
The Phan Rang–Tháp Chàm area is pretty spread out, so having your own vehicle is definitely a bonus. You can find these through your accommodation, with the going rate being $5 to $10 per day. Most of the ride-sharing apps are here, but not as prevalent. You can find local taxis around the city, though.
If you’re planning on a beach holiday, though, you can manage things on foot for Phan Rang alone. Many of the restaurants and cafes, plus the museum and night market, are within a few blocks, with the beach about a 20-minute walk away.
There is the local orange bus that’s like an extended minivan. It goes between Phan Rang and Tháp Chàm along the main road. You can take it to reach the Cham towers, but I found the bus stops and timetables online weren’t very accurate. It’s best to ask your hotel or a local for help with this, or just wave it down if you see it.
In terms of getting to Phan Rang–Tháp Chàm, you’ll either get dropped along the highway outside of Phan Rang by bus, or you’ll end up at Ga Tháp Chàm (maps) if coming by train. Dozens of taxis hang outside the station, and I found it easy to find a Grab going to/from here.
Where To Stay In Phan Rang
Your only big choice for where to stay in this area is whether or not you want to be in Thap Cham, Phan Rang, or closer to the beach. If you have your own vehicle, then it won’t matter too much because they are all connected by one major road.
I’d lean towards Thap Cham only if you want to see the Cham Towers, and the beach only if you plan on doing beach activities often. Phan Rang town is right in between both and has a wider range of cafes and restaurants to choose from, plus the night market.
Here are some of my Phan Rang accommodation recommendations:
Phan Rang Hotel | An old-school hotel that has been the sort of de facto stay for foreigners on a budget for a while. It can be hit-or-miss, but it has a mini-fridge, private bathrooms, and is in a pretty good area of Phan Rang. I’ve stayed here before, and while it didn’t wow me, I didn’t have any complaints, especially for the price.
Leo’s Homestay Phan Rang | Clean, spacious rooms that are run by a lovely family. The location is also very good, and the price-to-quality ratio is great.
Sea Urchin Homestay | Gorgeous rooms that are quite unique for this area, most of which have a nice lake view. It’s within walking distance of plenty of restaurants, has modern amenities, and is on the lower end of midrange prices.
Royal Hotel Ninh Thuận | A very typical modern Vietnamese hotel with a range of budget-friendly and mid-price rooms. The area is pretty good, away from the majority of hustle and bustle, but close enough to the major restaurant and cafe area.
JAP KARO | Similar to the hotel I mentioned above, but just a few steps from the nearest beach. Bonus points to the friendly staff and large open terrace.
For more Phan Rang accommodations, check here.
