Songkhla city is easily one of the most underrated places in Southern Thailand. Despite being named after the province, it’s often overshadowed by the more visited and larger neighboring city of Hat Yai.
It makes sense when you consider that Hat Yai is a major transport hub, with a train station that services routes down to the Malaysian border and all the way up to Bangkok. Most people are scrambling to get north to more iconic cities (and islands) on the Thai travel route. However, I highly recommend clearing up a few days in your itinerary, getting off the beaten track, and heading to the historic port city.
There’s a lot to see, including several beaches, the nearby island of Ko Yo, beautiful temples, and a cafe-filled old town brimming with history and artistic murals.
I visited Songkhla after spending a bit of time in Hat Yai and wanting to see a little more of what the province had to offer. And I’m really glad I did, because it has become a bit of a favorite in Southern Thailand in my eyes.
Here are the best things to do in Songkhla city, plus restaurant and cafe tips, where to stay, and how to get there from Hat Yai. I also dive into the street art scene and highlight the must-visits in the historic Songkhla Old Town.
This is my guide to Songkhla, Thailand.
Check Out Songkhla’s Temples & Shrines
Every city in Thailand will have at least one, if not more, temple worth seeing. The primary religion is Buddhism, and its values and teachings have been ingrained in Thailand’s daily life for centuries.
Songkhla is no different, except for the fact that a Chinese influence is incorporated into some of the city’s shrines. If you’re into this aspect of Thai culture, then there’s a lot to see within the provincial capital.
Songkhla Old Town Temples
There are a half dozen or more wats within the historical old town. Wat Liab and Wat Yang Thong are two quiet, clean temples that sit a block away from each other off the main two roads. They are great places to find some shade and beat the Songkhla heat in a peaceful atmosphere.
Wat Matchimawat Worawihan is a must if you’re interested in the history of the region’s Buddhism. It has a beautiful garden area, plus a free attached museum with some neat artifacts and gorgeous paintings.
Ko Yo Island Temples
If you’re planning to visit Ko Yo Island, which sits in the middle of Songkhla Lake, then Wat Laem Pho is a prerequisite. It sits just on the other side of Tinsulanonda Bridge and features some very pretty sculptures and monuments. The most iconic of those is a large golden Buddha in the sleeping position.
Other temples worth seeing on the island include Songkla Wat Khok Piew for its intertwined rainbow naga sculpture, Wat Thai Yo, Wat Khao Bo for its naga with a walkthrough staircase, and Khao Kuti Forest Monastery for the hilltop views.
MORE SONGKHLA TEMPLES TO SEE
- Wat Laem Sai
- Wat Rong Was
- Wat Siriwannawat
Masjid Ban Bon – Usasan Islam
If you’ve been this far south in Thailand before, then you won’t be surprised to see that Songkhla has a Mosque. There are several on the outskirts of the city, the most famous being the Central Mosque of Songkhla.
However, the main one within the historic old town is Masjid Ban Bon – Usasan Islam, or Masjid Asasul Islam. The 19th-century mosque has a single minaret and is simple, but very pretty, with golden domes and well-kept grounds.
Songkhla’s Shrines
The most prominent of the city’s shrines is the Songkhla City Pillar Shrine. What makes this city shrine stand out amongst all the others in Thailand is its distinctive Chinese design. The wood of the shrine was said to have been gifted by King Rama III, and it’s been a major religious site for Hokkien Chinese since they emigrated.
Just down the street from it is the Guan-Yu Shrine, a popular 19th-century Chinese temple complex. It has a very colorful gate and an open courtyard, and is said to have lively Lunar New Year events.
OTHER CITY SHRINES
- Pun Tao Kong Shrine
- Poh Au Than Shrine
- Tang Seng Ong Shrine
Go Street Art Hunting In Old Town
The street art scene in Songkhla is fantastic and has only been growing in recent times.
If you’ve read any of my Malaysia guides, you’ll understand my infatuation with artistic murals and wall paintings, especially in historic old cities. So I was pleasantly surprised when I walked through the Old Town to find so many beautiful pieces.
The blocks from Nakhonnok Street to Saiburi Road, from the Songkhla Clock Tower to the Red Rice Mill, are all filled with funky paintings.
Normally there’s a typical route for things like this, but all the side streets have a piece or two, so you can just wander around to see them. I will, however, give a basic overview of the ones that are listed on Google Maps, so you can pick out some spots you won’t want to miss.
YALA ALLEY STREET ART
This cross street has some of the most popular murals in Songkhla and is also home to the famous World War House. The house gives a nice little overview of Arthur Stewart and his heroics during WWII, and it also has some quirky art pieces on it.
Murals on this street include:
- Dog, cat, Mouse and Bird
- สามล้อถีบพ่วงข้าง (Pedal-Powered Tricycle with a Sidecar)
- ลิง สูทดำ (Monkey in a Black Suit)
- หมี่ผัดเสี่ยงโชค (Lucky Stir-fried Noodles)
RAMAN ALLEY STREET ART
Two blocks north of Yala Alley is another popular street for murals. It runs between Nakhonnai Street and Nang Ngam Street.
Murals here include:
- Mermaid
- Children of three races (Multicultural city)
- Coffee Council สภากาแฟ (Coffee-Shop Gathering)
NONG CHICK ALLEY STREET ART
This is one block north of Raman Alley, and Ai Lian China House sits on one of the corners. It’s a narrow street that rarely gets any motor traffic and has some of my favorite murals.
These include:
- กาแฟรถเข็น (Coffee Cart)
- เรือประมง (Fishing Boast)
OTHER POPULAR MURALS
There are many more around than what I’ve mentioned. If you search these out, you’re bound to come across the others. The street art scene is only growing, so keep an eye out for any new ones, too.
Just a few more around old town:
- นางเอกงิ้ว (Chinese Opera Heroine)
- สงขลา หนังตะลุงใส่สูท (Nang Talung Performer in a Suit)
- Animal Murals on the back of Lee Wiwat 7 President Store
ART GALLERIES IN SONGKHLA
The art scene in the Old Town is much more than just street art. You’ll find some cool studios and art centers that are worth popping into. You’ll probably stumble on these naturally, but I’ll list them out anyway.
Songkhla Art Center | An art center that has paintings from local Songkhla artists. There’s usually an exhibit going on, although it’s not a guarantee. It’s south of the city gate.
Songkhla Art Center II | Another community art center, but this one is near the rice mill on the lakefront.
Area 36 Songkhla | A cozy little area with a secret garden, rooftop bar, and usually some interesting art installations.
Nora House 168 | A small house that hosts art exhibitions and performances.
Head To One Of Songkhla’s Museums
I’ve already mentioned the Buddhist museum in Wat Matchimawat Worawihan, but Songkhla has a handful more museums worth visiting. Each has a little bit different from the others, and that doesn’t include the exhibitions/heritage houses around town, which I’ll cover a bit later.
Here are the ones you should consider seeing:
Songkhla National Museum | The national museum is housed in a spectacular renovated mansion, and the exhibits cover the province’s regional history. They have English signage, some interesting artifacts, and a lovely property. I suggest going if you’re really into the city’s history, as it’s on the pricier side for foreigners.
Entry Fee | 200 baht
Opening Times | Wednesdays to Sundays from 9 am to 4 pm.
Folklore Museum | A quite large museum on Ko Yo Island that covers the folklore of people from this region in the past. That includes the lifestyle, culture, and arts, with some displays in traditional wooden homes. It’s probably the most detailed museum of this bunch and has great views of the lake from the terraces.
Entry Fee | 150 baht
Nakhon Nai Museum | The free, private museum is set in a really cool historic house in the old town. It’s dedicated to King Rama IV and the royal family and has some neat photos and Chinese pottery on display. Most everything is in Thai, so if you want all the details, make sure to have an offline translator with you.
General Prem Tinsulanonda Museum | The preserved house doubles as a museum and is the birthplace of Thailand’s 16th prime minister. If you’re interested in learning about General Prem Tinsulanonda, or just want to see an interesting traditional house, then it’s worth a visit. Entry is free.
Explore The Rest Of Songkhla Old Town
Songkhla Old Town is almost overwhelming with the amount of things to see within a relatively small area. I’ve already covered temples, street art, museums, and the like, but a few more things stand out that are worth mentioning.
Here’s a little rundown of places to keep your eyes out for:
Hub Ho Hin (Red Rice Mill)
The historic building is one part bar/restaurant and another part heritage hall, and is one of the top things to do in Songkhla. It’s a striking red color, with cool sculptures outside and views of the fishing boats and lake from the back patio.
The building, which was the site of the old rice mills, is the de facto tourist center and has an exhibition about the city’s revitalization projects.
This is a way to share Songkhla’s efforts to get the Bo Yang neighborhood and the surroundings of Songkhla Lake onto the UNESCO World Heritage Site list. It’s currently on the tentative list, so you can see the wonderful things the city is doing to make this happen.
Ai Lian China House
A souvenir shop and historical building with lots of cool ceramics and other artistic pieces. It’s worth coming just to see the home even if you don’t plan on getting anything. There are similarities to the next place I’ll mention.
Baan Praphai – Maritime Silk Road Heritage
This is another place that sort of doubles as a museum along with being a heritage house. It’s a mesmerizing wooden house, covered almost entirely in intricately made porcelain ceramics.
There’s a whole wall of traditional Chinese plates, colorful pottery artistically placed, and pretty bonsai trees all about. The property also holds a small section of sculptures and more. It’s very photogenic, too.
The Jetties
All along the lakeside you’ll find jetties filled with colorful fishing boats and iconic views.
These include Akkaneewut Jetty, Saphan-Lek Jetty, Phuttharaksa Jetty, Thewet Borirak Jetty, Swat Jetty, and Southern Songkhla Port. You don’t need to visit them all, but some of these historic ports have been turned into public spaces to spot seafaring activities.
Songkhla City Wall / Old Town Songkhla Gate / Old Fortresses of Singora
Parts os Songkhla’s ancient city walls can be seen all around the Bo Yang area, but the most obvious spots are the Old Town Songkhla Gate at the entrance to the city and a wall in the northern part of Old Town.
The gate is more of a photo spot than anything else now, as just a small portion remains. It’s well taken care of, though, and gives you a base for where to start exploring the historic center. The city wall was built in the 19th-century and is done in the Chinese architectural style. Most of it was torn down to make room for roads, but a large part remains near the Songkhla National Museum.
East of Bo Yang, across the lake, are the remnants of the Old Fortresses of Singora. This is where the old Sultanate of Singora, the 17th-century port city, was located. It was a precursor to current-day Songkhla and has quite a few ruins to explore if you’re interested in its history.
Chill At A Cafe
I consider Songkhla Old Town to be one of the best places to grab a coffee and people-watch in Thailand. It has an eerily similar vibe to Prachuap Khiri Khan’s cultural street, especially when it comes to historic buildings turned into cafes.
There are a few dozen coffee shops to choose from, and honestly, you can’t go wrong with most of them. So if you see a place that seems to have a great atmosphere, I suggest just stopping in.
With that being said, I’ll still mention a few recommendations:
ThanBoho’me ธัญญ์โบโฮม | One of the prettiest cafes in the Old Town. It has vintage-style decor, a laid-back atmosphere, and some quirky paintings and art hanging from the walls. The drinks menu is simple, but great, and the homemade desserts are worth trying.
Café Amazon Songkhla Old Town | If you’ve been to Thailand before, you’ll probably know the name Café Amazon. The chain coffee shop isn’t what I’d normally recommend, especially in a historic town with such unique cafes. However, this specific location deserves a shout because not only is the property a wonderfully beautiful place, but attached to it is a historical exhibit of the art/design.
Photograph Coffee Shop | Tucked away in a residential neighborhood closer to the airport, the modern coffee shop is worth a visit if you’re staying in Songkhla for a couple of days. There is a heavy Japanese influence in both the layout of the place and the menu. You’ll find several matcha and yuzu drinks, plus your typical black and milk coffees. They give a choice of what coffee bean strength you’d like as well.
Virung Coffee & Bar | This was my first stop in Songkhla, and it’s a charming cafe with self-roasted coffee and a variety of bean strengths to choose from. They do all the normal espresso pours, plus an extensive signature drink menu with things like refreshing soda coffee mixes, dirty coffee, and the Thai-style es-yen coffee. They also do cocktails and food, which I’ll cover more in the food section.
22 Twenty Two Cafe’ | A lovely, spacious cafe near Tangkuan Hill on the way to Samila Beach. They do good coffee, have a nice variety of tasty cakes, and have nice food options. It’s near where the monkeys hang out, so if you get takeaway, just be aware that they might be interested in what you’re carrying.
Homecoftus (Pae-cactus) | A cool little establishment with an artsy, old-school design that fits the overall aesthetic of Songkhla Old Town. They do some unique iced teas, milk drinks, and decent cocoas. A specialty ice cream shop was next door when I last visited, but it seems to have been shut down since then.
MORE CAFE OPTIONS IN SONGKHLA OLD TOWN
- Comeback @ Baan Khun Luang
- Cafe’ de Museum
- The Stand Brew•Bake
Grab A Bite To Eat
Thailand is a massive foodie destination in its own right, so finding good food is never difficult. And similar to the cafe scene, you can walk in almost anywhere and end up with good food.
But if you’re aiming for something a little more specific, then these places are worth checking out:
Lyn’s The Shanghai Cafe’ | This is a restaurant that has a little bit of everything, including traditional Thai dishes, pastas, and grilled meat plates that are more westernized. What makes it stand out, however, is the Thai vegan options. They also have great mango ice cream desserts.
Virung Coffee & Bar | I previously mentioned Virung Coffee & Bar under the cafe section, and can recommend it for food, too. The menu mostly consists of very clean Southern Thai dishes and some fusion meals. It’s a solid pick at any time of the day as the coffee is great and the cocktail menu is pretty wonderful as well.
Sirada Restaurant Koh Yo | An authentic spot that serves Thai food and has great seafood. They have varying plate sizes, which means it’s a solid restaurant for larger groups, and is one of the more popular eateries on Koh Yo island.
Cafe’ Der See Nakornnok | Another cafe/restaurant that makes for a solid all-day place. It has a lovely outdoor patio, nice food, and tons of craft beer to choose from.
MORE RESTAURANT OPTIONS
- Moooon donuts @Nakhonnok | For the donuts.
- 325 The Ramen Space | For ramen.
- Roti Ama | For roti.
Head To The Beach
As a coastal city in Thailand, you should be unsurprised to learn that there are amazing beaches in Songkhla. The whole eastern coast is filled with soft white sands, turquoise waters when the winds are calm, and the occasional surf break.
Three main beaches make up this stretch near the city center, all of which you can get to by walking. Here is a little overview of them:
Samila Beach | This is the busiest beach in the city and runs from the northern point down to Songkhla City Park in the south. It has plenty of space, is popular for local families, and is lined with food and drink stalls. There’s also a lot of kid-friendly things to do, so it’s ideal for those of you traveling as a family.
You’ll find plenty of shade under the trees here, some really cool sculptures which I’ll cover later, and a yearly kite festival happens every early spring. They also do horse riding on the beach, although I feel for the horses in the Songkhla heat.
Chalathat Beach | The long stretch of white sand that runs south of Samila Beach down toward the airport. The waves can get harsher here than Samila Beach, as it doesn’t have a little bay. This also means garbage can wash up on the shore. It’s quieter though, and is lovely for walks and those looking to escape the crowds.
Kao Seng Beach | This beach is where a small Muslim fishing community is based. It sits in a little bay between Chalathat Beach and where the Kao Seng Rock and Wat Khao Kao Saen are. There are a couple of mosques nearby, decent halal restaurants, and colorful boats occasionally float offshore. It can have garbage from the local fishermen, though.
It’s worth noting that Songkhla’s coast is known for jellyfish. The season is usually during the winter months; however, you never know if a storm will bring a wave of them. Yellow warning flags are brought out when they are there, warning you to stay out of the water. I recommend you follow the warning since Portuguese man o’ wars aren’t uncommon. This was the case when I was there in the spring.
See The Golden Mermaid Statue
All along the backshore of Songkhla’s beaches are local parks to hang out at when the water isn’t so inviting. These are mostly filled with shaded areas, monuments, and statues of historically significant figures.
The most iconic of those is the Golden Mermaid Statue, which has become the symbol of Samila Beach since its creation in 1966. Built by Jitr Buabus, the former arts college director, it represents a mermaid from an old Thai folktale.
The story goes something like a local fisherman saw a mermaid combing her hair on the beach one starry night. She was startled upon meeting him and fled into the water forever, leaving the fisherman to wait for her to never come back again.
It’s pretty interesting, and most Thais must agree, because there is usually a small queue for photos with the statue.
MORE BEACHFRONT STATUES IN SONGKHLA
Besides the Golden Mermaid Statue, there are several more sculptures worth seeing. Not far from it is the Cat and Rat Statue depicting an old Chinese tale. To the south is Songkhla City Park, which has the Reading Man Roundabout sculpture and a cool cement Naga tail overlooking Chalathat Beach.
Ratchadamnoen Alley is at the northern edge of the park and leads to Seree Public Park. There are some interesting folklore statues and little mermaids leading to the Krom Luang Lopburi Ramet Monument at the bottom of Tangkuan Hill.
Further north are the Royal Commemorative Sculpture Park and Song Tha Le Park. If you’re up for a walk, Song Tha Le Park has a cool Naga head that doubles as a water fountain, Prince Chumphon Khet Udomsak Shrine, and Krom Luang Chumphon Monument.
Head Up Tangkuan Hill
For the most part, Songkhla sits on a flat peninsula. The one exception, however, is Tangkuan Hill. It sits near Samila Beach and offers some fantastic views of the seaside and the Bo Yang district.
The hill is quite easy to hike up and will take about 10 to 15 minutes to reach the summit. There is the Khao Tang Kuan Naga Staircase, which can be accessed from the western side, but most people opt for the cable car on the eastern side.
The reason for this is that it tends to be very hot in Songkhla during the day, and there are large groups of pesky monkeys that hang around the steps. To be fair, they are all around the base of the hill too, because locals tend to feed them fruits.
If you’re planning to make the trek up, just hide any water or bright things that might attract the monkeys. A walking stick will do wonders as well. The end view is worth the walk (or lift) up.
At the base of the northern side is Sa-Bua pond. It’s a pretty area that plays host to festivals during parts of the year and has picturesque lotus plants during the season.
Tang Kuan Hill Lift Station Price | 60 baht round trip.
Day Trip To Hat Yai
Since Songkhla is a bit out of the way for those traveling by public transport, most people opt to visit as a day trip from Hat Yai. After all, Hat Yai is a major transport hub in Southern Thailand.
However, if you’re looking for more of the beach town vibe, or an authentic Thai holiday spot, then I recommend flipping things. That means staying in Songkhla and day tripping to Hat Yai or maybe spending a night there at either end of your trip.
Here are some things worth doing in Hat Yai on a day trip:
- Visit the weekend Khlong Hae Floating Market to grab a bite to eat from the boat vendors. Cultural shows and events usually take place, so it’s a great way to see traditional dancing and the like.
- Explore the city’s wonderful evening markets. Hat Yai has some of my favorite night markets, like the Greenway Market, ASEAN Night Bazaar, and Lee Garden Night Market.
- Wander the streets in Old Town to see the retro architecture and quirky street art scene.
- Head over to Wat Chue Chang to see one of the region’s prettiest temples. The Buddhist temple’s striking white tile exterior is something truly unique for Thailand, and is immediately noticeable.
- Eat your way through one of my favorite foodie destinations in the country. There are a ton of Chinese-influenced soups and a dash of Malay cuisine that feels authentically Southern Thai.
Getting There | Highway 407 and 414 will take you directly there. If you take the 414, you can stop by the picturesque Central Mosque of Songkhla, often referred to as Songkhla’s Taj Mahal. In terms of public transport, minivans run often between the two cities, which I’ll cover in more detail in the next section.
Getting Around Songkhla
While you can see most of the Songkhla historic center and beaches on foot, a vehicle will definitely help. And I’d definitely recommend one if you plan to see Ko Yo Island and the Singora Fortress ruins. There are taxis you can grab too, but just be aware that English isn’t so common.
When looking on maps, you’ll notice the Songkhla Railway Station, but there are no longer passenger trains running. It’s mostly a derelict station, although it’s worth seeing if you’re a train enthusiast. The Songkhla Airport is much the same, as it’s only used for military purposes now.
Buses, which are just minivans, head between Hat Yai and Songkhla and stop along Ramvithi Road up until the Songkhla Clock Tower. This will be the only public transport option, and they run on a system of passing around a little straw bucket for you to pay the fee. Ask another passenger or the bus driver for the price, as everyone is generally helpful. It was around 60 baht each way when I was last there.
Here are the transport stations to know:
Hat Yai–Songkhla Passenger Van Waiting Point (maps) | Or, จุดรอรถตู้โดยสาร หาดใหญ่ สงขลา on most maps, is where you can catch buses back to Hat Yai. This is the de facto bus station, and they try to fill up the minivan before leaving. I suggest coming here instead of waiting on the main road to ensure you get a seat back to Hat Yai. It’s directly in front of Songkhla Kindergarten.
This route runs between this point and Hat Yai Bus Station (maps) near the ASEAN Bazaar. If you’re going to Songkhla on a day trip, I recommend heading here to guarantee a seat. Although the minivans do stop at the Hat Yai Clock Tower before going to Songkhla as well.
Where To Stay In Songkhla
With most restaurants and tourist attractions so close to Songkhla Old Town, I suggest staying within walking distance of it. With this in mind, I’d avoid staying south of the airport unless you have your own vehicle.
There aren’t a ton of options in Songkhla, but what the city lacks in choices, it makes up for with nice hotels and guesthouses. Most things are in the mid-range in Thailand. Although if you walk around to hotels, you can find a few more budget-conscious options.
Here are a few recommendations:
Baan Nai Nakhon | A beautifully decorated mid-range boutique hotel. It’s in the heart of the Old Town and offers a tasty breakfast and nice amenities.
Casa Der See Boutique House | Another boutique hotel with cute rooms in the Old Town. They also have a few budget-friendly options.
Wachi Hotel | About an equal distance between Chalathat Beach and the Old Town, making it ideal for those looking to hit the beach during the day. It’s a mid-range hotel, with modern double and triple rooms, along with suites.
No5 Hostel Songkhla | Located in a beautiful old wooden Thai house, this hostel has an old-school feel to it. It’s just below Tangkuan Hill and has rooms on the lower end of mid-range.
Songkhla Tae Raek Antique Hotel | A gorgeous hotel with an array of rooms in every price range. It’s in the Songkhla Old Town near where the night market takes place.
For more Songkhla accommodations, check here.
