Mai Chau is, in a word, spectacular!
Limestone cliffs rise above an endless expanse of rice fields, creating an immense green valley. Cycling paths zigzag from village to village beneath them, while the sun bounces off the flooded rice paddies, creating a mirror-like reflection.
Like the Tam Cốc – Bích Động area in Ninh Bình Province, it’s often referred to as “Halong Bay on Land.” This mostly comes from the similar karst mountains and flat landscapes that the UNESCO site is known for. And considering all these places are within a few hours of Hanoi in either direction, it should come as no surprise.
I’ve been up and down Vietnam a few times now, and I consider Mai Chau to be one of the prettiest places in the whole country. Cycling around the rice fields is a magical experience, one that’s best done at a slow pace to take in the sights and village life.
While it has been growing in popularity in recent years, I’d also still consider it an underrated destination within Northern Vietnam.
These are my favorite things to do in Mai Chau, with tips on where to cycle, the best villages to visit and stay, and the best local restaurants. I also share a must-visit market nearby as well as a few caves to explore.
This is my guide to Mai Chau, Vietnam.
Sunset Over The Rice Fields
Evenings in Mai Chau were some of my favorite times, mostly because of the spectacular sunsets. There’s that special something about the sun peeking behind the limestone cliffs and the reflective waters from the rice fields making a breathtaking mirror image.
When I close my eyes and picture Vietnam, that’s the image that comes to mind.
If you grab a bicycle and go for a ride around sunset, you’ll almost always have a great view. Small paths weave through the fields, and there are several stopping points in between the various villages for photo opportunities.
A few nice restaurants/drinking spots offer terraces with panoramas of the surrounding mountains if you opt for a more chilled-out twilight experience. My favorites were La Mai Châu Food & Coffee and Jungle Brews Mai Chau, but there are several more you can stop by.
Either way, sunsets are the prime time to be out during your trip to Mai Chau.
Bicycle Around The Local Villages
The go-to thing to do in Mai Chau is undoubtedly cycling from village to village. Almost every accommodation provides bicycles free of charge or for a small fee, and it allows you to explore the breathtaking countryside in depth.
Here are the most common villages to see by bike:
VAN VILLAGE
The road leading to Văn Village is a straight shot through low-tiered rice fields, with steep green mountains in the backdrop. It’s a stunning sight. There isn’t much to do here, but the village is filled with the typical wooden stilt houses the region is known for. Some of which have small manmade watering holes, and others that double as small cafes.
On the road, there’s the Thai Mai Chau Museum, which houses a small assortment of old trinkets upstairs, but is really more of a place to grab a drink and maybe some food. This and the neighboring complex have nice gardens; the latter features a 10-foot replica of the Eiffel Tower with a Vietnamese flag waving on top.
NHOT VILLAGE
A larger community just east of the town, Nhót Village is one of the more popular places to stay in Mai Chau. There are several homestays in the area, which also means you’ll have more than a few restaurants and cafes to stop at in the middle of a bike ride.
Besides that, there aren’t many singular attractions; instead, it’s more about seeing the rural community in action and taking in the views of the fields here.
Where to Stay | Meadow Mai Chau Homestay
NA PHON VILLAGE
Nà Phòn Village (Bản Nà Phòn) is quite small, but was probably my favorite place to ride to. The road there is magnificent, with a straight shot through open rice fields and clear views of almost all other villages.
On the way there, you’ll see wooden windmills and turnoffs for a pub and some restaurants.
At the center of the village is a field with grazing water buffalo, and there are a few eateries and cafes worth stopping by. Most cycling tours have a small stop here to talk about daily life in the village.
LAC VILLAGE
This is where I stayed, and it’s a village that’s mostly filled with homestays, restaurants, and souvenir shops. It’s a bit busier than the other, with more tourist groups coming in at times, but it’s a peaceful place nonetheless.
If you head east to Coffee Lốp lắc lắc and follow the main road, it’ll take you along one of the limestone mountains. It’s a cruisey, mostly flat road that eventually heads south to Phai Pheo Dam (Đập nước Phai Pheo).
Where to Stay | Cò’s House
POM COONG VILLAGE
Directly to the north, Lac Village turns into Pom Coong Village. The two are much the same in that they are filled with homestays and guesthouses. But next to the community center here is where you can rent an electric taxi to explore the villages if you’re not up for bicycling.
It’s also where Mỏ Luông Lake is, but I’ll cover that later on in the article.
Where to Stay | Mai Chau Countryside Homestay
NA PIENG VILLAGE
This small village is to the east of Mai Chau town and has a few things of interest. The first is the Jungle Brew Distillery, which I’ll cover later on in its own section.
The second is Hedgehog Cave (Hang Nhím), a long dark cavern with stalactites. The cave is lit up by electric bulbs and can be entered by paying a mandatory 50k VND “donation fee.”
The ride to the village is lovely, winding through rice fields with plenty of scenic stopping points. If you’re heading there later in the day, I recommend bringing a light because it gets pitch-black along the roads when the sun goes down.
MORE NEARBY VILLAGES
- Nà Mèo
- Xăm Pà
- Xóm Nhuối
Try Some Local Mai Chau Cuisine
I found the local cuisine to be delightful and full of flavor in Mai Chau. There’s a mix of Thai and Vietnamese cuisine, which are both some of my favorite foodie destinations in the world.
You can expect just about every restaurant to have home-cooked meals, which means the flavors of Mai Chau really stand out. It does also mean that you might have to wait a bit longer for your food than in other places around the country.
With that being said, you can still find quick bites in the town center. I should also mention that most homestays cook breakfast for you, so you’ll usually just have to worry about lunch and dinner during your stay.
Here are some of my favorite restaurants in Mai Chau:
3 Sisters Restaurant | The menu is extensive here, with many classic Vietnamese dishes, plenty of vegetarian options, and some local favorites from the Thai minority like banana leaf salad and a Thai ethnic salad. The spring rolls are also a favorite, and if you’re feeling daring, you can try the fried silkworms. You should keep in mind that not everything on the menu will be available, as some things are seasonal. Oh, and the smoothies were really good, too!
La Mai Châu Food & Coffee | My partner and I came here a few times and enjoyed every meal. The staff are friendly, the curries are fragrant and delicious, and the atmosphere is very laid-back. There is also a stunning view of the rice fields from just about everywhere under the seating area, which makes it ideal for sunset drinks.
Ban Bakery & Tea | A really solid little cafe to grab a coffee or a smaller meal. They have great desserts, especially the banana and orange cakes, plus a decent banh mi. While the pizzas don’t look special by any means, they are quite good for this part of the country.
Bún Chả Mai Châu | Unsurprisingly, the bún chả is really tasty here. If you’re not familiar with bún chả, it’s grilled pork patties served with a flavorful, tangy fish sauce broth and cold vermicelli noodles. It comes with loads of fresh greens, too, and this specific one was one of the better ones I’ve had. They have other things on the menu, but I can’t claim how good they are because I was happily filled from the bún chả.
MORE MAI CHAU RESTAURANTS TO TRY
- Mai Chau No.9 Bistro | For authentic local food
- Vegan and Vegetarian Restaurant Food & Coffee | For vegan and veggie dishes
- Mai Chau Restaurant Countryside | For the clay pot meatballs and fried chicken
Stop By Jungle Brew Distillery
One of the top experiences, and one of my favorite things to do in Mai Chau, is a visit to Jungle Brews Mai Chau.
The local rice wine distillery is located in Nà Piềng Village and offers short tours of the brewing facilities and free tastings on a terrace above the rice fields. If you’re interested in the rice wine process, or just want to taste some fruit-infused wine, it’s a great spot.
My partner and I spent an evening here, tasting some of the different flavors, watching sunset over the rice fields, and chatting to the owner, Dat, about life in the village. He’s a tech worker who decided to move back home, start a family, and build a rice wine business for the fun of it.
In short, he’s super interesting, and I learned some really interesting folklore and traditions of the Thai minority in the area.
Oh, and the rice wine was superb.
Most of the flavors come from local fruits, although the owner likes to tinker with recipes, so there are some other unique tastes. I tried mango, mulberry, apricot, pineapple, strawberry, passion fruit, and a robusta coffee blend.
There are probably a few missing, but I think you get the gist of it. Overall, it’s worth the ride out, and in my mind, is best experienced in a group.
Note | The tastings should be free, so if you feel like it was worth it, make sure to purchase a bottle or two. They are quite inexpensive, and it goes a long way in helping the owner keep up the tasting sessions.
Head To Mỏ Luông Lake
Mỏ Luông Lake sits at the southern edge of Mai Chau town, where Pom Coong Village starts.
This small lake is somewhere I’ve ended up bicycling past more times than I can count, and it’s the go-to spot for locals looking to escape the heat. At first, I thought it belonged to Mai Chau Lodge because the hotel and glamping site owned property surrounding part of it.
But in the end I realized it’s free game to swim in, with a few little piers and stairwells going down into the watering hole. Around sunset, which is a beautiful time here, you’ll find a bunch of the village kids splashing around, and occasional fishermen, and some others floating in kayaks.
The backdrop of limestone hills is also scenic, and there are shaded areas to lounge around.
Across the street is the Mỏ Luông Cave, which used to be more accessible, but is now locked up. To access it, you’ll need to go to the Mai Chau Lodge and ask if they can open up the gates for you. If you’re lucky, they’ll let you visit with a guide for a fee.
I’m unsure if this is the permanent arrangement or if it’s just while repair work is being done. Either way, the only access is through the lodge for the time being.
Hike Up To Chiều Cave
Chiều Cave, or Di Tích Hang Chiều, lies atop a mountain at the southern end of Mai Chau town.
The hike up is a bit of a journey, with more than a thousand steps that lead you slowly up the mountain beneath a canopy of trees. It will take 20 to 30 minutes in total, but it’s not for the faint of heart, since it never flattens out until the end.
There are a few spots along the trek, though, where the trees open up, and you’ll get some gorgeous views of the Mai Chau countryside. Once at the top, you’ll have to walk downhill into the mouth of the cavern.
Large stalagmites and stalactites rise and fall from the chamber of the cave, making it quite an interesting and eerie visit. And since the hike is tedious for most, there’s a good chance you’ll be one of a very few people there.
I made the mistake of wearing shorts and no mosquito repellent, and I suggest you don’t make the same blunder I did. There are hundreds of the annoying little bloodsuckers starting from the base of the mountain to the top.
Water is also recommended as temperatures get hot and humidity rises in Mai Chau. The same goes for shoes that have some traction and a flashlight for the deeper part of Chiều Cave.
Bicycle Parking | There are a handful of residents who offer bicycle parking for a small fee at the bottom of the steps. If you head up early in the morning, you’ll probably be able to skip this, but during the day you’ll be asked to pay what comes out to around a dollar.
Of course, you can always walk here if you don’t stay too far away.
Souvenir Shop In Lac Village
While Lac Village might lack the rural feel of some of the other villages, it’s still oozing with charm. This is where most of the older guesthouses are, and in between them you’ll find some interesting souvenir shops.
At the forefront of these is clothing, although there are handbags, wooden toys, and art pieces too. I’m not going to beat around the bush; some things here are probably mass-produced, but if you’re willing to dig a little, there are some unique items.
That especially goes for the places where someone in the family is an artist. You’ll sometimes catch them producing something in front of you.
Purchasing something from the vendors here also helps the local sellers who often rely on income from tourism. Agriculture was once the biggest driver for people, but since then, guesthouses have started to pop up, and handicrafts have become another source of income for families.
Head out to Pà Cò Village Market
If you find yourself in Mai Chau on a Sunday, then a trip to Pa Co Village Market is a must. The morning market, called Chợ Pà Cò in Vietnamese, sits in the rural mountain town known as Pa Co about an hour east of Mai Chau town.
I wasn’t in Mai Chau on a Sunday, so I actually visited from the similarly sounding Moc Chau. The market sits at about the halfway point between the two towns, so if you run into the same problem, you can always go from Moc Chau as well.
What makes this particular Sunday market so spectacular is the handicrafts from the local Hmong ethnic group. They travel from the highlands down to Pa Co to sell some authentic and very cool-looking items.
Colorful Hmong dresses, knitted bags, vibrant tapestries, and more are on display.
For those wanting to take back a really niche souvenir, then this market won’t disappoint. I’m basically at the point where I live out of a backpack, so I opted for something small and grabbed some hand-painted cloth coasters.
While negotiating is par for the course here, it isn’t nearly as crazy as in the big markets in Hanoi and Ho Chi Minh City. I suggest giving a price you feel is fair, and either accepting the counter or moving on.
You’ll also find some food stalls with hand-cooked items that make for great snacks. If you’re up for a bit of a motorbiking trip, this is one of the best things to do in Mai Chau.
Getting There | You’ll need your own vehicle or to arrange transportation in advance with your accommodation to get to Pà Cò Village Market. Just follow the QL6 (also called the AH13) highway west until you reach Chợ Pà Cò (maps).
GETTING AROUND MAI CHAU
The majority of accommodations lend out free bicycles or offer on-site bicycle rental. This is the best way to explore nearby villages and reach some epic rice-field viewing spots. Most will also rent out motorbikes, which is a convenient way to get to places further out, like the Pà Cò Village Market, Viewpoint Mai Chau, and Hoa Binh Lake.
There are some taxis in the area, but they aren’t so common. Instead, there are electric golf carts for hire that can reach the nearby areas for those who don’t want to use bicycles. They’re all around Lac Village and Pom Coong Village.
Two types of buses go from Hanoi to Mai Chau: limousine buses and standard buses. Limousine buses can be bought in advance, and often leave from the bus company’s offices or the Opera House. These usually cost between 200k and 300k VND.
Standard buses leave from Yen Nghia Bus Station (maps) and cost 120k VND for a one-way ticket. I booked this option through Vexere with Thu Bang, but it isn’t necessary. In all honesty, I’m not sure if the company even checks the online bookings, and you pay in person anyway.
They’ll drop you off anywhere along the main road in Mai Chau Village. I asked to be let out at the nearest place to Lac Village, and they obliged. It was a few minutes’ walk to my homestay.
WHERE TO STAY IN MAI CHAU
You’ll basically have two choices when it comes to accommodations in Mai Chau. The first is family-run hotels/guesthouses near the town center. These are closer to the bus stop, ATMs, the market, and a wider variety of restaurant options.
The second is a family-run homestay/guesthouse in one of the local villages. This is my preference, as you get to stay near the rice fields with a typically lovely local family. Most of these have free or cheap bike rental (which is almost a must in Mai Chau), which makes getting around extremely easy. I linked a few places above for each village, but here are some alternatives.
Here are some of my recommendations:
Hakuna Matata Homestay Mai Châu | A solid option for those who want to be closer to the main town center. It’s within walking distance of the market and not far from the entry road to Van Village.
Mai Chau Green Ecohouse | Another Lac Village guesthouse worth staying in. I spent about a week here and loved my time. The family is friendly and super helpful, plus they have an amazing breakfast and free bike use.
Peaceful MaiChau Homestay & Nha Tan – Mai Chau Homestay | Two wonderful homestays in Nhót Village (Bản Nhót). Each has air-conditioning, a range of rooms to choose from, and amazing views nearby. Just make sure to have a flashlight on you when coming back at night, as the road from the center is pitch black.
Mai Chau Valley View Hotel | A hotel that feels more like a guesthouse with spectacular views of the rice fields, especially at sunset. It’s at the southern end of Mai Chau town near Lac Village and Pom Coong Village.
Mai Chau Ecolodge | A more upscale retreat between Pom Coong Village and Nhot Village. There’s a shared pool, plus some lovely views of the paddy fields below.
For more Mai Chau guesthouses and homestays, check here.
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