Banja Luka is the lovely capital city of Republika Srpska, one of Bosnia & Herzegovina’s two confederal entities. Despite being the country’s second-largest city, it’s often overlooked by travelers making their way through the Balkans.
One part of that is the simple fact that Mostar and Sarajevo are more internationally recognized as tourist destinations. The other is that it’s often skipped by those island-hopping down the coast of Croatia.
This is what I did on my initial trip to the region, but after a second visit to Bosnia & Herzegovina, I found that I was missing out on a pretty wonderful city. With its dignified state buildings, open green parks, and historic religious buildings, Banja Luka offers a whole lot to do for those looking for either a short or extended stay.
This is my guide to Banja Luka, including the top spots to see around the city, tips on where to stay, and a few wonderful day trip destinations.
Here are 11 amazing things to do in Banja Luka, Bosnia & Herzegovina.
WANDER AROUND THE KASTEL FORTRESS
Banja Luka’s oldest historical monument, the Kastel Fortress, is a scenic riverside castle that bursts to life in the warmer months. Its open-air facilities are more reminiscent of a park than a castle, but that adds to its charm.
When the summer comes around, concerts and events are hosted, and people hang out in the courtyard until late. It reminds me a bit of the famous Serbian castles, like Petrovaradin Fortress in Novi Sad or the Belgrade Fortress in Belgrade. However, it’s not quite as grand as those two.
Nonetheless, it’s a must-visit when in Banja Luka.
The partly reconstructed stone walls and structures have played a key part in the city’s history for centuries. Although you won’t see anything left from that era here now, different artifacts found in the Kastel Fortress date back to the Paleolithic Age.
If you want to make the most of a trip, I suggest coming to one of the events or grabbing a bite in the castle’s restaurant. It’s also worth heading to a restaurant or “Banja Luka Beach” across the river around sunset for some stunning views of the fortress’s exterior.
Entry | Free
VISIT THE CATHEDRAL OF CHRIST THE SAVIOR
Sitting in Banja Luka’s main square, the Cathedral of Christ the Savior is considered one of the most iconic religious buildings in Republika Srpska.
As with so many of the churches and mosques in the country, it has a story similar to that of a phoenix bird. By this, I mean the tale of being born again and resurrected.
Once known as the Temple of the Holy Trinity in Banja Luka, it was completed in 1939 before being hit by German bombing a mere 2 years later. In its place, a monument arose until the 1990s, when a new government allowed for it to be reconstructed.
The Serbian Orthodox church was finally finished in 2009.
The current structure was built from magnificent shades of yellow and faded red travertine stone that originates from Mesopotamia. It’s stacked layer by layer to create a notable striped look that, along with its golden domes, seems to brighten in the sun.
The free-standing bell tower that stands next to it is done in the same design and stands at 47 meters high.
Inside is richly decorated, with breathtaking mosaics, ornate gold trim, and a massive golden chandelier. Outside, you’ll find some interesting loose stone pieces that come from the original church.
Entry | Free
Opening Times | 7 am – 7 pm
ARCHITECTURE TO SEE
There’s beautiful architecture around Banja Luka’s main square. Some buildings that stood out were Banski Dvor Cultural Center, the City of Banja Luka Municipal Building, the Palace of the President of the Republic of Srpska, and the National Theatre of Republika Srpska. They’re all in the block or two surrounding the Cathedral of Christ the Savior.
Of course, there are also some other gorgeous buildings nearby, like Saint Bonaventure’s Cathedral and the Museum of Contemporary Art of the Republic of Srpska, but I’ll cover those in more detail later on in the article.
SEE BANJA LUKA’S OTHER CHURCHES
The Cathedral of Christ the Savior might be the most prominent church in the city, but there are several more worth visiting. And that amount grows almost yearly, with new ones being built regularly. It’s nice to see the contrast in architectural styles throughout the years.
During my daily walks around town, these were the other churches that stood out to me:
Saint Bonaventure’s Cathedral | A must-see cathedral that reminds me a bit of the Googie style architecture from the futurist boom in the mid 1900s. It was built in honor of the Italian saint, philosopher, and Franciscan theologian from the Middle Ages.
The current building was constructed in the 1970s after the original church had been damaged, and then repaired after sustaining damage from the Bosnian War. The main building has a simple, contemporary design. Next to it is a spiral clock tower that resembles an air traffic control tower.
Church of the Holy Trinity | Around the corner from Saint Bonaventure’s Cathedral is the Church of the Holy Trinity. From 1972 to 2009, it served as the cathedral church of the Eparchy of Banja Luka. Stepping inside, you’ll notice a gorgeous wooden altarpiece and splendid wall and ceiling paintings. It was built as a replacement for the Cathedral of Christ the Savior because the former Socialist Bosnia didn’t allow the cathedral to be rebuilt.
Church of the Nativity of the Blessed Virgin Mary | Or Crkva Rođenja Presvete Bogorodice on maps is a modern Orthodox church with a distinctive single tower and a sort of futuristic 80s look. It sits just across the river.
Church of Saint George | A small, picturesque church a bit outside the city center. It has gorgeous golden domes and a huge ornate wooden altarpiece.
Ukrainian Greek-Catholic Church of Christ the King | A striking, blue-painted church with onion-shaped domes on its towers. The interior is often closed, but the outside is quite beautiful.
Church of the Epiphany | Photogenic church near the entrance to the fortress.
EXPLORE GRADSKA TRZNICA
Visiting Gradska Tržnica, or simply City Market, is the best way to peek into the daily lives of Banjalučani.
It’s a do-it-all market that has everything from fresh produce to handmade to budget-friendly clothing. It reminds me a bit of the chaotic markets you’ll find in Southeast Asian cities, although much calmer and more organized.
But overall, it has the same vibes, where there are hundreds of individual vendors and any item you’d need for around the house. Those include replica apparel that can be bargained for if you know a bit of the local language.
You should definitely have a translator handy if you’re looking to purchase anything that needs discussing, as English isn’t commonly spoken here. Although if you’re just looking for some fresh fruits and vegetables, you shouldn’t have a problem.
Even if you’re not looking to buy anything, I suggest exploring the market to experience authentic city life in Banja Luka.
ADMIRE FERHADIJA MOSQUE
The Balkans have a lot of very pretty mosques, and the Ferhadija Mosque (or Ferhat Pasha Mosque) is most definitely one of them.
If it weren’t for the spectacularly ornamented mosque in Travnik, I might even have it at the top of my list for most beautiful in the country.
It’s also one of the few mosques listed as a national monument in Bosnia & Herzegovina.
Like many religious buildings in this region of the world, Ferhadija was targeted and destroyed in the 1990s. And, along with several others like it in Banja Luka, it was blown up until very little remained.
Since then, the 16th-century Ottoman mosque has been restored “from the ashes” to its original form. In the mid 2000s, the surviving foundations were completed, and in 2016, it was reopened to the public.
The exterior features a single minaret, a courtyard with a picturesque fountain, and a small, neatly maintained garden. The interior is known for its colorful painted dome, lovely mihrab, and stained-glass windows.
BANJA LUKA WALKING TOURS
Most walking tours around Banja Luka will include Ferhadija Mosque and the previous sights I’ve already mentioned. Everything can be done on its own without a guide; however, keep in mind that there isn’t much information given at any place.
If you’re looking to dive deeper into the history of everything, then joining a guided tour like this Private Walking Tour with Wine Tasting or this Discover Banja Luka by Guided Tour are options worth looking into.
CHECK OUT THE AWESOME STREET ART
Similar to other cities in Bosnia & Herzegovina, Banja Luka has a thriving street art scene.
A handful of mural paintings are scattered throughout the city, with many of these being commissioned or authorized pieces. There are some more experimental works and ‘tagging,’ but these don’t always stay long. Banja Luka is supposed to be quite strict when it comes to its street art.
Most of these works are found in the Borik. It’s a more modern neighborhood that has large soviet era residential blocks with plain multistory buildings. On the sides of a few of these, on the open face of the complexes, are gorgeous murals.
The vast majority of the still-standing art here was done for the Flaster Jam Festival, a local street art festival that was held in Banja Luka during the mid 2010s.
BORIK MURAL PIECES
Chicha by BOZKO | A Bulgaria-based artist
Find Your Way To Fly by Artez & Lonac | A Serbian artist & Croatian artist
Icarus by Etam Cru | Polish artist group made up of artists BEZT & SAINER
Melting Piano Painting by Piros | A Serbian artist
The artists who created these paintings on “Mural Alley” have commissioned work that spans the whole of Europe. This includes places like Spain, Italy, and Germany, as well as popular destinations in the Balkans like Budva and even the Sarajevo Bobsleigh Track.
Other Pieces To See | The funky mural near the sundial on the corner of Grčka and Vidovdanska, a painting on the Glossa Language School, and Mural Cvijeće Budućnosti on Kralja Alfonsa XIII.
If the street art scene in Banja Luka interests you, then maybe joining a guided street art and craft beer trail tour is something worth checking up on.
VISIT ONE OF THE MUSEUMS
There are two notable museums located within the Banja Luka city center.
If you feel you need a day indoors or want to learn a bit about the art & culture of the region, one or both are worth a visit:
Museum of Contemporary Art of the Republic of Srpska
Housed in a former railway station, the modern art museum displays exhibits from local and foreign artists. It’s located just down the street from Park Petar Kočić and is, in my mind, the more interesting of the two museums.
Opening Hours | The museum is open from 10 am until 10 pm and is free of charge. Check out their website for more information about the exhibits, events, or collections.
Museum of the Republika Srpska
A unique museum with a mishmash of historical and modern exhibitions. Outside of researching online or asking locals, it’s the only insight you’ll find into the country’s history in Banja Luka.
Just don’t go into it expecting a clear answer on how Republika Srpska came to be.
Location | The museum is located in the National and University Library of the Republic of Srpska.
Opening Hours | From 8 a.m. to 8 p.m.
SEARCH OUT THE UNIQUE SCULPTURES
Banja Luka seems to have made good use of its empty space in the city center by adding a monument or sculpture to every park, roundabout, or square. Some of these are dedicated to the city or country’s notable civilians, while others are simply quirky sculptures that stand as decorative art.
I had a fun time walking around finding all the weird pieces and historical statues. These are some areas that you’ll find some of the more interesting ones:
- Outside of the fortress | Memorial of the King Stefan Tvrtko 1st Kotromanic and Safika’s Grave
- Front of Museum of Republika Srpska | Monument dedicated to the Great Count Stefan Nemanja and Monument to Branko Ćopić
- Outside the National Theatre | Kulin Ban Monument, Pushkin Monument, “Petar II Petrović Njegoš” Monument, Memorial to Soldiers of the WW2, Jasenovac Victims Square Monument,
- Roundabout sculptures | Stipaljka or the clothepin sculpture at the end of Kninska Street and The Stone Balance sculpture near Venecija Bridge.
- Entrance to Mladen Stoyanovich Park | The giant Tennis Ball sculpture and Tennis Racket (Teniski Reket) sculpture.
- Various park monuments and installations | Giant Cyrillic letters at Cyrillic Park. The Monument to the Voluntary Blood Donors and the Bulevar Fountain at Park Bulevar. The Monument to Petar Kočić at Petar Kočić Park. Heart Sculpture, City Fountain, and Monument to Ban Svetislav Milosavljevic at Park Bana Milosavljevića.
- Near the Museum of Contemporary Art | Central Memorial Monument of Republika Srpska, Monument to the Twelve Babies (Spomenik Dvanaest Beba), Sculpture “Mother and Child” (Skulptura ‘Majka i Dijete’), Giant Outdoor Chess Board
WALK GOSPODSKA STREET
Veselina Masleše Street, or Gospodska Street as the locals call it, is the oldest and busiest street in Banja Luka.
Roughly translating into something equivalent to Gentleman’s or Noble’s Street, this is where most of the evening crowds are seen in the city. It also leads to the Christ the Savior Cathedral and main square in the north and Krajina Square with its funky “earthquake clock” in the south.
I’ll be honest, unless you’re into luxury shopping or cafe lounging, there won’t be much more to do here than wander. But it’s a wonderful avenue to do so.
It has beautiful neo-Renaissance and Art Nouveau architecture that’s accentuated by its colorful facades and is reminiscent of many other former Austro-Hungarian city centers. It’s also normal to see pretty, festive streamers hanging between the 19th and 20th-century townhomes. Plus, people tend to be out and about and enjoying themselves.
EXPLORE OUTSIDE THE CITY
There are a few cool things just a short trip away from Banja Luka. Some, like the nearby cheese-making monastery or nature reserve, can be reached by walking or local bus. Others need a car, but they offer a unique contrast to the more modern “big” city.
Here are a few places worth seeing on the outskirts of Banja Luka:
Mariastern Trappist Monastery | A scenic Trappist Monastery that sits amongst beautiful nature just outside the city proper. They are famous for making a wonderful local cheese and producing their own traditional liqueurs. You’ll want to set up an appointment in advance unless you are in a large group, or you risk them being closed.
To get there, you can either walk, take Bus 2 or BL-008 for part of the way, and walk the rest, or hire a bicycle for the day and ride there. You could also opt for a Trapist Monastery Tour that picks you up beforehand.
Banja Luka Recreation Area | A nature and hiking area south of the city. Trekking up to Banj Brdo to the viewing deck and brutalist monument is a popular thing to do. To make a day out of it, you can head to Hot Springs Vrućica to either cool down in the river or relax in the warm pools.
Walking is doable to reach the trailhead, or you can take either Bus 6, 7, or 8 part of the way. These all stop by the hot springs as well. Visiting as part of a larger citywide tour is an option, too.
Krupa na Vrbasu | The village sits about half an hour south of Banja Luka and is one of the top day trips to do. It has a gorgeous old church to visit called the Monastery of the Holy Prophet Elijah, the peaceful and serene Krupa Falls, and cute wooden watermills reminiscent of those in Jajce. If you’re driving on your own, you can stop at the Ethno village of Ljubačka Dolina. The small historical village costs €2 and will give you a glimpse into a traditional Bosnian village.
A local bus from Bočac Tours leaving from the Banja Luka Bus Station is supposed to stop by here. However, it’s easiest to visit if you have your own vehicle. Alternatively, you can hire a private car for a round-trip journey.
Jajce | The gorgeous castle town sits above a magnificent waterfall and is within walking distance of the Pliva Lakes. Similar to Krupa na Vrbasu, it features historic watermills perched above waterways. It’s one of my favorite places in Bosnia & Herzegovina, and it’s only around an hour and a half drive away.
If you want a further breakdown on what to do during a day trip here, you can check out my ‘Jajce Guide.’
Multiple buses run between the two cities daily, but it’s best if you have your own transport.
GETTING AROUND BANJA LUKA
Most of Banja Luka’s city center can be walked around in a day, so unless you’re heading into the surrounding countryside, you’ll be fine doing most things on foot. There’s also a solid bus system, so getting to Banj Brdo, the train station, and to further parts of town can be managed that way.
However, if you want to make the most of day trips, you’ll have to rent a car. Long-distance buses have tighter schedules, and the schedules aren’t the easiest to find. Here are the transport spots you’re most likely to run into:
Airport Transfer Bus Stop (maps) | This is the pick-up point for those looking to take a shuttle with Smiljic Travel Company to the airport. Prices are 10 KM for the trip. You can find a schedule on the Smiljic Company Website.
Banja Luka might have the smallest airport I’ve ever been to. But flights to Vienna and some other smaller airports are common.
Bus Station Banja Luka (maps) | A typical bus station that has local and international bus routes. Flixbus via Centrotrans stops here, usually covering popular destinations in Bosnia and Croatia like Mostar, Sarajevo, Jajce, and Zagreb.
Bring some change and small bills, as there are usually platform fees, toilet use fees, and sometimes a luggage fee. Local buses leave from just outside the station for the town center often.
Banja Luka Train Station | Just behind the bus station is a basic, rather empty train station. There are only two lines that run from here: the Doboj – Banja Luka train and the Novi Grad – Banja Luka train. Neither of these places is on many people’s radars, so it’s unlikely you’ll end up here.
WHERE TO STAY IN BANJA LUKA
Apartmani Koko & Apartman MAŠA | Two budget-friendly apartments on the outskirts of the city center. I stayed in Apartmani Koko for a few nights and enjoyed it. The kitchenette wasn’t fully stocked when I was there, so if you’re planning on cooking nightly, one of the other apartments might be a better fit.
Apartmani Janjic | A well-equipped and nicely located apartment in the city center. It’s reasonably priced and has a grocery store just down the street.
APARTMAN POZORISTE Penthaus | A gorgeous apartment in the heart of the city with exceptional views.
Hotel Vila Vrbas & Courtyard by Marriott Banja Luka | Two wonderful hotel options. Hotel Vila Vrbas is on the banks of the river, right across from the fortress. As far as Courtyard by Marriott goes, the one in Banja Luka is very well-priced. I’ve stayed in a few over the years, and you know exactly what you’re getting each time.
For more options, check here.
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