As the gateway to the Albanian Alps, Shkodër ends up being an essential stop on many people’s travel itinerary.
Its slow-paced vibes create the perfect atmosphere for winding down after hiking in the mountains. And its proximity to the Montenegrin coast makes it an ideal city stopover before crossing the border to popular destinations like Kotor and Budva.
Unfortunately, visitors tend to only stop here for a day or two before heading out on their adventures. I think this does Shkodër a disservice, as the city has much to offer.
I would have been one of those short-term visitors if it hadn’t been for an early summer snowstorm that made the famous Theth-Valbonë hike inaccessible. But, in the end, I’m glad for the delay. It meant I got to truly explore Albania’s fourth-largest city over the course of a couple of weeks.
In this post, I share some of my top things to do in Shkodër, including my favorite restaurants, where to stay in town, and how to spend a wonderful day at Lake Skadar. I also share a few fun day trips, plus I go into detail about the epic day hike in the Accursed Mountains that goes from the village of Valbonë to the village of Theth.
Here is my guide to Shkodër, Albania.
Wander down Rruga Kolë Idromeno
Often considered the prettiest street in Shkodër, Rruga Kolë Idromeno is the city’s main pedestrian walkway. If you’re into cafe culture, this is a great place to start your morning. It’s teeming with coffee shops, stylish boutiques, and lively restaurants.
And in the evening, the atmosphere is buzzing.
The outdoor patios for the local eateries all fill up, the bars become active, people stroll down the street in packs, and sometimes live music is set up for all to hear. It’s a nice place to sit down for a sunset drink or dinner if you’re into people watching.
The street also gives off a bit of Italian vibes, especially considering you can find decent pasta, pizza, and gelato here.
About halfway down it, you’ll find the wonderful Marubi National Museum of Photography. Established as a way to share Italian artist and photographer Pietro Marubi’s legacy, the museum has evolved into a curated gallery that covers Albanian history through photos.
Other prominent Albanian photographers’ works can be found here, too.
Some of which are from Marubi’s pupil, Kel, a man who took his last name and continued his life’s work. Kel’s son, Geg, did the same and followed in the two men’s footsteps, creating a “photography dynasty.”
Entry into the museum costs 700 Lek, and you can find the visitor schedule and all other information on the Marubi National Museum website.
At the southern end is Ebu Beker Mosque, which I’ll get to later.
Trek up to Rozafa Castle
As you enter Shkodër from the south, between the winding Buna and Drin rivers appear the imposing ruins of Rozafa Castle.
I’ll start by saying this is one of the most beautiful castles in the country. The mighty Venetian fortress is perched atop a small hill that overlooks the picturesque Lake Skadar to the West, the sprawling Shkodër cityscape to the North, and a never-ending Albanian countryside to the East.
Its position was strategically chosen way back in classical antiquity, and its history attests to its importance. A small museum inside explains more in-depth about its past, including early settlements all the way up to Venetian and Ottoman times.
Also inside the walls is the remains of a Venetian church, often thought to be St. Stephen’s Cathedral, that was later turned into the Mehmed Fatih Mosque during Ottoman rule. Other points of interest are a secret passageway and the dozen or so viewpoints where you can see Shkodër’s surrounding landscape.
Rozafa Castle Entry | 400 Lek
Castle Museum Entry | 200 Lek
THE LEGEND OF ROZAFA
The legend of Rozafa is one of sacrifice to build and preserve. It starts with three brothers who were tasked to build the castle. They would build the walls during the day, but every night, the stones they put up would fall.
Eventually, an old man approached them and, after hearing their woes, offered a solution to their problems. The walls would stay standing, but only if they buried one of their wives inside them. The wife who would be sacrificed would be whichever one brought them their meal the next day. But they could not tell their wives beforehand.
Of course, two of the men broke the promise. The third’s wife was Rozafa. She had a newborn, but accepted her fate anyway. She asked only for them to leave her right eye, breast, and foot free so that she might still see her son, feed him, and rock his cradle. And now the castle still stands tall because of her sacrifice.
Admire Ebu Beker Mosque
The modern Saudi-built Ebu Beker Mosque (Xhamia Ebu Beker) stands in the center of Shkodër’s Old Town at the southern end of Rruga Kolë Idromeno.
It’s a beautiful contemporary mosque, built in the 1990s, and features two over 100-foot-high minarets. Despite its lack of history, I still find it to be worthy of a visit. Especially in the evening when it’s lit up for the city to see.
The interior is nice too, with arching windows that let in plenty of light and patterned trim around the base of the dome.
It sits on the site of the former Fushë Çela Mosque, a popular Ottoman mosque that attracted scholars from around the empire. That’s why some people around the city call it the Great Mosque or even the New Fushë Çela Mosque.
The old building was one of many religious structures destroyed during the communist times.
Nearby are some unique sculptures like The Statue of Saint Mother Teresa and the Monument to the 27th Partisan Brigade of the Shkodër District.
OTHER MOSQUES TO SEE IN SHKODER:
- Lead Mosque
- Mosque of the Madrasa
- Parrucë Mosque
Visit the Metropolitan Archdiocese of Shkodra-Saint Stephen's Cathedral
The Metropolitan Archdiocese of Shkodra-Saint Stephen’s Cathedral, or simply St. Stephen’s Cathedral, is a splendid Catholic cathedral in the heart of the Old Town.
If the name sounds familiar, that’s because I mentioned St. Stephen’s Cathedral in the Rozafa Castle section. This is actually the follow-up to that Venetian church that was transformed into a mosque.
The 19th-century cathedral has had its ups and downs, starting with its construction. It took the local bishops centuries of convincing before one of the sultans of the Ottoman Empire permitted the current structure to break ground in Shkodër.
And after that, it wasn’t much easier.
The cathedral was subsequently damaged during the siege of Scutari and shut down a half a century later during the communist times between 1967 and 1990. But alas, it stands strong today and was even visited by Pope John Paul II.
A separate room in St. Stephen’s Cathedral has been turned into a Diocesan Museum (Muzeo Dioqezan Shkodër). It shares a bit of history about the cathedral and has some interesting artifacts within.
Museum Entry | 100 Lek
Museum Opening Hours | 9 am to 5 pm daily, although it’s known to be shut at random times.
In Albanian, and on most online maps, it goes by Arqidioqeza Metropolitane Shkodër-Katedralja e Shën Shtjefnit.
OTHER CHURCHES TO SEE IN SHKODER:
- Holy Church Nativity of Christ
- Saint Francis’ Church
- Church of Saint Nicholas
Explore More of Shkodër’s Historical Center
An extended stay in Shkodër meant I had plenty of time to wander (and cycle) around the historical streets and see what it had to offer outside of the main tourist spots.
I concluded that it’s a pretty neat city, with plenty of cool shops and the occasional piece of funky street art. It also does a great job of sharing its history through various monuments and museums.
Here are a few more sights I haven’t mentioned that are worth seeing:
Shkodër History Museum | The museum I’d most recommend for those wanting to learn about history in the region. It’s located in a traditional house and has three exhibits. One is dedicated to Albanian ethnography, another to archaeological findings and historical treasures, and the last to visual artwork. The price of entry is 200 Lek.
Site of Witness and Memory | A small but sobering museum that’s dedicated to the country’s history of communism. It focuses a lot on the political and religious prisoners during Enver Hoxha’s reign, as well as the destruction of religious buildings. The price of entry is 200 Lek.
Rruga G’juhadol | A cute old street that runs perpendicular from the northern end of Rruga Kolë Idromeno. It has some beautiful old homes, a few nice restaurants, and some fun, trendy bars.
Shatërvani Park | This clean park across from Parrucë Mosque has a bunch of unique monuments in and around it. That list includes the Monument Dedicated to the Victims of Communist Persecution, the Hasan Rıza Pasha Monument, the Anticommunist Monument, and the Memorial of Democracy Heroes. Bashkia Shkodër, the town hall, is only a few steps away.
Isa Boletini Square | The small square has a giant statue dedicated to the Albanian revolutionary commander Isa Boletini and a small, pretty garden.
Other Things Worth Passing By | Statue of Luigj Gurakuqi, The Englishman’s Clocktower, Migjeni Theatre
Cycle to Mesi Bridge
Not too far from Shkodër, in the village of Mes, is a stunning Ottoman-era bridge that passes over vibrant turquoise waters. It was built in the 18th-century as a way to connect the larger city with the towns to the east, like Drishti and the Valley of Kiri.
It has since become a hotspot for locals and tourists alike.
That’s because underneath is a mesmerizing natural pool that becomes the perfect escape for the early summer sun. I should note that this isn’t always the case, as the riverbed the pools stem from is known to dry up at times.
When I was there, I was lucky enough to dive into the refreshing water and sunbathe on the rocks under the scenic arch. It’s still worth visiting, though, even if the water level has dropped. It’s one of the largest Ottoman bridges still standing in Albania, and the nearby nature is charming.
I recommend coming here by bicycle as the ride is modest, flat in most areas, and a direct shot from the Shkodër city center. However, there is parking nearby for those of you road-tripping across the country.
Getting There | It’s a straight shot to Mesi Bridge once you get on Rruga Inxh. Gjovalin Gjadri. I suggest downloading offline maps to make things easier. If you’re up for a longer bicycle ride, you can head to Drishti Castle about 5 km further down the road.
Relax along Lake Skadar at Zogaj and Shiroka
Two small fishing villages sit along the shores of Lake Skadar (Shkodra Lake) just over the bridge from Rozafa Castle. Their names are Zogaj and Shiroka, and if you want to experience the tranquility of the lake without hiring a boat, these are the places to go.
Lake Skadar is a special place, known for having a unique biodiversity, stunning views, and being protected as a nature reserve. It also happens to be Southern Europe’s largest lake and connects to both the Adriatic Sea and Lake Ohrid by riverways.
Needless to say, it’s worth a short visit.
Zogaj
Zogaj is almost directly on the Albanian border and is the most laidback of the two towns. There aren’t a ton of things to see here, but it’s quite serene nonetheless.
The village has a few nice restaurants to grab lunch at, a small mosque, and a little viewpoint on the promenade with a yellow door that is nice for pictures. There are also a couple of rock beaches nearby. One is just underneath the town, where you can lounge in the sun and hire a boat, and another, more secluded one past the mosque at the end of the road.
Of course, you can always make the trek to the former Albania-Montenegro border checkpoint. But it’s mostly construction now and doesn’t really have that eerie charm you see with other abandoned buildings.
Shiroka
As the closest of the two towns to Shkodër, Shiroka is far busier. At least, that’s how it felt when I was there.
There is a nice promenade near the water with several spots to take in the panoramic views of the lake. A couple of piers jut out over the water, one of which had an abandoned lakehouse called Stralaus Freudenberg. For a 100 Lek fee, you can explore the property.
Along the promenade are a handful of nice restaurants that are worth eating at if you haven’t already done so in Zogaj. They also make for a wonderful meal during sunset if you don’t mind cycling back to Shkodër in the dark.
Inland, you’ll find the small Shiroka Mosque, the Catholic Church of Shiroka with its pretty views, and King Zog’s Villa. The abandoned villa is a cool spot to see for those who like urbexing and has a couple of nice photo spots of the lake.
If you’re up for a short walk, it’s worth wandering along the street between Zogaj and Shiroka. There are a few viewing spots near the water’s edge, a small pebble beach where you can swim, and a restaurant or two.
Getting There | Cycling to Zogaj or Shiroka is the easiest way. You can cross Buna’s Bridge, and it’ll take around half an hour each way. Walking is an option too, but it’s just over an hour each way. Local buses run this route, but there are very few per day.
Departure times are 7:30 am, 12 am, and 2 pm, but that’s not guaranteed. Weekends only have the 7:30 am and 2 pm departure times. Return times from Zogaj are at 8:30 am, 12:30 pm, and 3 pm from Rruga Teuta opposite Rozafa Hotel. It’s best to ask the driver for return times, though. The price is 100 Lek each way.
I’m not 100% sure if these are official, so just keep that in mind. It’s better to ask locals or your accommodation for clarity. My partner and I took the bus there and then walked back, and it was a pleasant trip.
STAYING IN ZOGAJ OR SHIROKA
A handful of nice hotels are in the Zogaj and Shiroka area and offer an escape from the hustle and bustle of Shkodër. These might be a solid option for those looking to explore the lake more in depth or if you want a lakeside retreat after hiking in the Accursed Mountains.
Here are a few worth mentioning:
Budget-Friendly | Four Generation Hotel
Mid-Range | Vila Sela
Luxury | Duomo Resort
Dive Into Shkodër’s Food Scene
After spending a few weeks eating my way around town, I can comfortably say that Shkodër is a wonderful food destination. It might not seem it at first glance, but it definitely competes with more renowned places like Berat and the Albanian Riviera.
There’s a pretty heavy Kosovo and Italian influence, to go along with the already great Albanian cuisine. I did find fewer Greek eateries here, but if you look hard, there are still plenty around.
POPULAR DISHES TO TRY IN SHKODER
Fërgesë | A creamy dip of roasted bell pepper, onion, and curd or soft white cheese. Usually served as an appetizer.
Tavë Dheu | Baked casserole made with beef, tomato, and cheese.
Tavë Kosi | Lamb, rice, and sour milk (yogurt) casserole cooked in a clay pot.
Goulash | Hearty beef stew.
Sallatë Fshati | Local village salad that is similar to a Greek or shopska salad.
Patellxhane të mbushur | Stuffed eggplants with a mix of other vegetables and herbs inside.
Qofte | Minced beef meatball. Most restaurants have multiple variations cooked with other ingredients.
Here are some of my favorite restaurants around town:
Fisi Restaurant | Really tasty food with a large variety of traditional Albanian and Kosovar dishes. I came here a few times and really enjoyed the combination dishes. They also have some vegetarian and vegan options.
Genti Breakfast & Restaurant | A nice selection of breakfast dishes and local fare. The Genti breakfast meal is a solid way to start the morning.
PURI | Easily one of my favorite restaurants in Albania. They have excellent authentic dishes that had me coming back a handful of times. The Father’s Rice is a must-try, and if you’re especially hungry, tack on a Mother’s meatball.
Pizza Napoli Shkodër | There are great pizzerias around town, but this might be the best of the bunch. They have some unique combos like a delectable pistachio and burrata pizza.
Bar Restaurant San Francisco | The food didn’t blow me away or anything, but it was good. The atmosphere and view of Rruga Kolë Idromeno while sipping on a drink in the evening was lovely.
Arti Zanave | Traditional slow food that is plenty delicious. There are plenty of vegetarian options, and the best part? They give a portion of their proceeds to a charity that supports survivors of domestic violence.
Bar Restorant Qilari | Friendly service and decent food right on Rruga Kolë Idromeno.
MORE RESTAURANTS WORTH THE HYPE
- Goje Gaditese | For evening cocktails
- Stolia Coffeehouse & Brunch | For brunch
- Fontana | For pizza and drinks
Make Your Way To Lake Komani
If you’re planning to do the famous Theth-Valbonë hike, Komani Lake, or Lake Koman is almost certain to be part of your itinerary. Taking a 2 to 3-hour ferry from Koman to Fierze is part of the popular loop that involves a series of buses, hiking in the Accursed Mountains, and then cruising along Komani Lake.
I’ll cover that in more depth later on, but for now I’ll just talk about the lake itself.
Lake Koman is a gorgeous reservoir that originated because of the 1970’s Koman Hydroelectric Power Station project. It appears between a deep valley of sloping mountains covered in trees that meet with serene green-blue water.
Ever since Albania opened up to tourism, it’s been a sought-after escape for travelers wanting to see Northern Albania’s wild nature nowadays, which includes the epic ferry ride, kayaking on the flat waters, or relaxing along the Shala River.
Komani Lake Ferry
There are a couple of companies that do the Komani Lake ferry route, and they’ll need to be booked in advance to guarantee a seat. The first, and easiest option, is to have your accommodation book it for you. This is what I did, since I needed to get all the way to Valbonë on the same day.
You can also opt to book beforehand with one of the ferry companies.
The most popular one is the Komani Lake Ferry with Berisha. This is the company I went through via my hostel. They have one boat a day at 9 am from Koman and a return boat at 1 pm from Fierze. There is also the Alpin Ferry, which has the same schedule as Berisha and the Rozafa Ferry. I don’t know much about either, so you’ll have to do your own research beforehand.
Even if you’re not planning to hike in the Albanian Alps, I can still recommend taking the ferry from Koman to Fierze. You’ll need to get a return ticket, but it’s a stunning journey that takes you through the deep gorges of the artificial lake.
Price | 1000 Lek in person
Getting There | Komani Lake Ferry Berisha has only one shuttle per day. It leaves at 6:45 am from Shkodër and costs 800 Lek. If you book with your accommodation, they’ll sort this out for you. You can also book in advance on their website.
Shala River
It’s only been in recent years that the Shala River has become an established day trip from Shkodër. That’s because it’s only accessible by boat, which means a tour is necessary. The area is stunning, so it’s definitely worth doing, but be aware that it might be packed with tourists. This is especially true in Albania’s peak travel season.
Most of the tours that run there are treated more as a get-you-there and get-you-back type excursion, so don’t expect a super detail-oriented guide. If this works for you, then something like this Shala River Tour will work. If you want a more informative guide, then something like this Komani Lake and Shala River Tour might be better.
Shkodër to the Accursed Mountains Travel Loop (via Theth/Valbonë hike)
Shkodër
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Bus to Koman
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Komani Lake Ferry to Fierze
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Fierze to Valbonë by bus (night in Valbonë)
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Valbonë-Theth Hike (night in Theth)
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Bus back to Shkodër
(or vice versa if starting in Theth)
Take A Trip To The Accursed Mountains
The Accursed Mountains, aka the Albanian Alps, are as beautiful as their name is spooky. Known for its jagged glacial karsts and gorgeous valley views, the mountain range is an adventure hiker’s paradise.
There are dozens of trails in this area, connecting the mountain towns to wonderful nature spots, as well as each other. One of them is the epic Theth-Valbonë hike, which, by now, you’ve definitely heard of.
I’ve spent months traveling around the country, and I can confidently say this is one of my top highlights. It’s also easily one of the best things to do in Shkodër. On my visit, I did the famous hike by starting in Valbonë and ending in Theth, which is something I can recommend. This means you’ll need to do the typical loop, starting with the ferry first.
This is gorgeous and has some really cool things to explore if you’re willing to spend an extra night. One of which is the Theth Blue Eye, not to be confused with Southern Albania’s Blue Eye. There’s also a short hike to Grunas Waterfall that snakes by the Reconciliation Tower and Theth Church.
If you want to forgo planning a trip on your own, there are several tours that do trips into the Albanian Alps.
Here are a few worth looking into:
Tour 1 | Self-Guided Hiking Tour: Theth, Valbona & Koman Lake in 3 Days
Tour 2 | Theth Village & Blue Eye Hike Day Tour
Tour 3 | Theth National Park Day Tour from Shkoder with Local Guide
Day Trip To Ulcinj
Ulcinj is easily one of my favorite places in Montenegro, and it’s somewhere I visit every time I visit the country. It’s far quieter than Kotor or Budva in the peak season, and it has some spectacular beaches to go along with a charming fortified old town.
And the best part? It’s super close to Shkodër, which means a day trip is feasible.
The city itself is also small enough to see in a single day, and the energy of the place matches that of Albania. That’s probably because the majority of people residing here are Albanian themselves.
Here are some things to do in Ulcinj:
- Explore the beautiful Ulcinj Old Town.
- Soak up the sun at Long Beach.
- Walk the coastline between the city and Long Beach, and stop at the hidden coves to cool off.
- Find all the other rock beaches and go for a dip under the Old Town.
- Try some fresh seafood at one of the local eateries.
Getting There | Buses used to be plentiful between Shkodër and Ulcinj, but that has changed significantly in the past 5 years. I’m hoping they add more routes in the coming years, but it’s no guarantee. Keep a watch in the summer months to see if more routes open up to Ulcinj.
With that being said, Drita Travel, whose tickets can be booked through FlixBus, operates a few routes between the two places. The trip takes about an hour and a half each way, and the border crossing is usually smooth. If you have a car, it’ll take even less time and is just a simple drive along the SH41.
BEACH TIME IN VELIPOJE
Alternatively, you can stay in Albania and enjoy the nearest beach to Shkodër. That would be Velipojë Beach, about 45 minutes away by car or bus. It’s a long sandy beach that’s reminiscent of Long Beach in Ulcinj, which makes sense because they’re right next door to each other.
It lacks the history and old town of Ulcinj and isn’t as well cared for, but if you’re looking for some casual swimming, you could do worse. Plus, it doesn’t include a border crossing or an international bus.
Getting There | By rental car or by bus. The Velipojë Express bus runs daily from the large roundabout in Shkodër. Timetables aren’t all that accurate, so it’s best to ask a bus driver or someone near the stop how often it goes.
GETTING AROUND SHKODER
Shkodër is a relatively small city in terms of size, with most of the main highlights within walking distance. For everything a bit further, I suggest renting a bicycle, as that’s the main form of transport for most here. Hotels and guesthouses usually offer them, and if not, they’ll point you in the right direction.
As of right now, the bus system is pretty easy to navigate. It’s not that it’s a very clear system, but because all buses leave from the main roundabout in the center of Shkodër at the Migjeni Theater (maps) or right nearby it along Rruga Teuta.
Signs with timetables are normally up, and if you can’t find what you’re looking for, just ask around at the corners of the roundabout or to local furgon drivers. This is where you’ll catch buses to Tirana and other major cities, as well as Velipojë. The Shiroka/Zogaj bus usually leaves from Rruga Teuta, across from the Hotel Rozafa near the Ebu Beker Mosque.
For more information about Albanian buses, feel free to check out my ‘Albania Bus Guide.’
WHERE TO STAY IN SHKODER
There’s no shortage of great hotels and guesthouses in Shkodër. Most are family-run places, and you can’t really go wrong if you pick a well-rated one within your price range. Albania is known for its hospitality, and it’s on full display here.
Unless you opt for the lakeside views of the hotels I mentioned in the nearby towns of Zogaj and Shiroka, you’ll end up somewhere close to the city center. Here are some suggestions for those of you overwhelmed by your hotel search:
Mi Casa es Tu Casa – Shkodra Backpackers Hostel | This was one of a handful of accommodations I stayed at in Shkodër. It’s a beautiful hostel, with great staff that can help you plan the Theth – Valbona hike transportation, among other things.
The Wanderers Hostel | Fun, social hostel that’s part of the I Travel Balkans group. I’ve mentioned this group quite a bit, like in my Ohrid and Mostar guides. I’ve stayed in several and always had a fun time!
Shkodra Guest House & Trips | Mid-range guesthouse that has plenty of great options for those traveling with family or in bigger groups.
InTown Guesthouse Shkoder | A gorgeous mid-range hotel housed in a historic building that’s within walking distance to most things.
Centropolis Apartments | Centrally located with a variety of rooms, including studio apartments. It’s modern, and the quality-to-price ratio is very good.
Ervini Boutique Hotel | A luxury boutique hotel with nice rooms and spectacular bathrooms that offer bath and hot tub options.
For more options, check here.
