With a rugged green landscape, charming towns, and spectacular architecture, East Bohemia is one of my favorite areas in the Czech Republic. Primarily made up of the Pardubice and Hradec Kralove regions, it’s often passed over for more popular destinations throughout the country.
I’ve been to the region on numerous occasions and will be there many more. It helps that my partner doubles as my personal East Bohemia guide, showing me around the lovely countryside of her home country! Every time I head back, I make it a point to see new places and she happily obliges by taking me to some of the region’s lesser-traveled highlights.
In this article, I’ll share with you some of my favorite destinations in the Czech Republic’s most underrated area. From bunker-filled mountain ranges to fairytale chateaus, there are some truly amazing things to see. Feel free you use this as your own personal East Bohemia guide!
Here are 8 places to visit while day-tripping around East Bohemia.
BEST WAY TO GET AROUND EAST BOHEMIA:
By Car | Driving is by far the easiest way to get around East Bohemia. There are tons of tiny towns that are, to put it frankly, out of the way from major transport. A car allows you to combine some of the smaller places into one trip as well. Also, road trips are just plain fun!
By Train | Most of the larger cities on this list can be accessed by train. The train system in the Czech Republic is decent, although there are often delays to most routes. If a car isn’t an option for you, you can check RegioJet, České dráhy, or Leo Express.
By Bus | Buses travel almost everywhere in the region, and can occasionally be a good option. However, some routes are infrequent and local buses don’t often run late in the day. For bus transport between larger cities, you can use RegioJet, and for local buses Idos.
Cycling | If you’re an avid cycler, East Bohemia is set up extremely well. The roads are generally in great condition, the road laws are friendly toward bicyclists, and there are tons of cycling paths. It’s an excellent way to see the region. Plus, drink stands and pubs are found everywhere along the way!
LITOMYSL | SMETANA’S TOWN
Litomyšl and its breathtaking Italian-Renaissance-style castle are a must-visit in East Bohemia. The bustling town is a few hours east of Prague and flaunts its architectural beauty at every turn.
Your first stop will undoubtedly be the ultra-popular Litomysl Castle. The unique envelope design of the castle complex attracts tens of thousands of visitors yearly. Once you’re up close and personal you’ll see why. Each “envelope” differs from the last, rising from the castle’s base to its intricately painted eaves. Oh, and there are thousands of them to examine.
Leaving the castle grounds will take you past the Regional Museum in Litomysl towards the Piarist Church of the Discovery of the Holy Cross. The museum is a nice stopover, often displaying strange, but insightful exhibitions.
The church is on the northern side of a larger compound, including the perfectly manicured Monastery Gardens and the Church of the Raising of the Holy Cross and Presbytery. At the gardens, you’ll find an impossibly green lawn dotted with all kinds of weird, lovely art pieces. It’s worth grabbing a gelato or some chocolate from the nearby Chocco Caffe and spending some time lounging by the pool with the sculptures.
Away from the main attractions you’ll find the town’s main square, Smetanova Namesti. The translation means Smetana’s Square and it’s named after the beloved Czech Composer Bedřich Smetana who was born in Litomysl. Restaurants and galleries line its cobbled streets, while the Town Hall tower peaks above their slanted roofs. Among these stores, you’ll find Dům U Rytířů or “Knight’s House.” Home to the Litomysl Municipal Gallery, the 16th-century home is a stark contrast to the neighboring shops’ colorful facades.
OTHER PLACES WORTH VISITING IN LITOMYSL
Josef Vachal Museum aka Portmoneum | An old home with interiors decorated by famed Czech painter and writer Josef Váchal. Vibrant artworks ranging from devils to references to Hinduism adorn the walls, sharing a deep insight into Vachal’s life philosophy.
Smetana’s House | A gorgeous Neo-Renaissance building with art nouveau elements. Built during the early 1900s, it’s dubbed Litomysl’s “National Theater.”
WHERE TO STAY | Primátor Camping Resort (the glamping option) /Apartments Marinka Litomyšl (the apartment option) / Hotel Aplaus (the upscale option)
NERATOV | A VILLAGE ON THE BORDER
I don’t know why I was so drawn to Neratov when I first arrived. It’s but a tiny little village near the border of Poland. Barely more than a few buildings at the base of the Orlické Hory Mountains. You’d think there would be nothing to do in such a small townlet, but it’s the perfect place for a day trip in East Bohemia.
Before we get to Neratov’s highlights, I’d like to mention its full name: Neratov v Orlických horách (maps). Surprisingly, the Czech Republic has another village called Neratov, which coincidently happens to be in East Bohemia. Maybe one day I’ll go to that Neratov and love it too, but for now, let’s just talk about Neratov v Orlických horách.
When you first turn up at the border village, you’re eyes will be fascinated by the one-of-a-kind Neratov Church. Also known as the Assumption Of The Blessed Virgin Mary Church, it has a breathtaking glass roof to go along with its simple, elegant interior. The Baroque church went through a bit of a rough patch in contemporary history, burning down at the end of WWII and merely escaping demolition in communist times. But alas, it survived! The modern reconstruction has been a dazzling achievement for the village.
Tip | Head up the stairs in Neratov Church to get a close-up view of the rooftop. The symmetry of the wood panels is a marvelous sight.
While the Neratov Church has a true wow factor, the coolest thing to do, in my opinion, is cross the border. When you head over to the Neratov Brewery you’ll notice a bridge with two country flags: one Czech and the other Polish. Here you’ll be able to grab a beer and cross the Divocka Orlice River into Poland. Wander around in the country across the way, before heading back to experience more of Neratov.
Through the work of the Neratov Association, the village has done an amazing job working with people with disabilities. From the wonderful garden leading up to the brewery to the tasty food at the Neratov Pub, you’ll notice the impact everywhere you walk. A majority of the things you’ll see in the once-displaced hamlet can be attributed to the organization.
FURTHER READING FOR NERATOV:
ORLICKE HORY MOUNTAINS | THE EAGLE MOUNTAINS
The Orlické Hory Mountains are a range of mountains in the northern highlands of East Bohemia. They translate in English to Eagle Mountains and play host to a variety of hiking trails, biking paths, and sky-high observation decks.
While outdoor activities are numerous, the real draw lies in the abandoned WWII bunkers. Paths both north and south of Fort Hanička line the region like fearsome concrete protectors.
The thing is, they never really played a role in the defense of the country. They’ve stood there, collecting moss, and generally deteriorating from the brutality of nature.
That doesn’t mean there isn’t history to be taught here though. Museum Tvrz Hanicka and its underground tunnels are worth a visit. The museum gives an in-depth look into pre-war defenses and military history. Combine a tour of the complex with a hike to the Rozhledna Anenský Vrch lookout tower for incredible views of Bohemia. Trekking through the shaded forest past the overgrown bunkers gives off serious Star Wars vibes.
Day Trip Idea | Add a trip to Orlicke Hory Mountains with Neratov. Explore the bunkers and check out the views before heading to Neratov for a meal at Neratov Pub. Afterward, visit Neratov Church and saunter across the Polish.
PARDUBICE | THE GINGERBREAD CITY
Pardubice is a compact, easily walkable city and one of East Bohemia’s largest municipalities. Because of this, you’ll find most of the amenities you would in any typical European city. There are fast-food chains, shopping malls, and a wider variety of accommodations than some of the other places I’ve mentioned. If you’re looking to base yourself in East Bohemia and explore by local transport, Pardubice is a good option.
The main attraction is the city’s Gothic-Renaissance Castle and nearby historic center. Similar to the Litomysl Castle, the Pardubice Castle has the same distinct envelope pattern. While the markings aren’t quite as unique, the chateau is still absolutely gorgeous. It also houses the East Bohemia Museum and a small gallery. Surrounding the property you’ll find a beautifully manicured park where peacocks roam freely.
Along with the castle complex, the other major sites form a sort of city trail. The trail starts near the stunning Pardubice Theater at the 60-meter-high Green Gate. An imposing site, the gate is the entrance to the old town and boasts spectacular views of the city at a small price.
After you enter through the Green Gate, you’ll find yourself in the heart of Pardubice – Pernštýnsky Square. The spacious square is home to the picturesque Pardubice City Hall and is fashioned in typical Czech style with its colorful facades and a central column.
If you follow the trail, your next stop will be the castle grounds and park that straddles it. Since I’ve already mentioned it, I’ll move on to the next destination– the Church of Saint Bartholomew. The 16th-century church is one of Pardubice’s original landmarks, displaying the classic Gothic look of medieval Europe.
Keep going west from here and you’ll find the Automatic Mills. The former silo-turned-modern industrial heritage site is just across the Chrudimka River. It’s filled with funky, contemporary art and often hosts events, bringing in food trucks and local performances.
The last two stops in Pardubice are the small, relaxing Komensky Square and the House of Jonáš. The house has a decorative exterior and doubles as an art gallery. When you’re done seeing the historic sites you’ll have a wide range of activities to enjoy. The city has an excellent array of cafes and restaurants, multiple cinemas, and a professional hockey and football team to watch.
WHERE TO STAY | Penzion Zelená Žába (centrally located) / Penzion Hacienda Ranchero (budget-friendly hotel) / Apartmány U Vinice (luxury apartment)
HRADEC KRALOVE | EAST BOHEMIA’S LARGEST CITY
Comparable in size to Pardubice, but different in feel, Hradec Kralove is East Bohemia’s other real city. Its real charm comes from its serene parks, scenic riverside buildings, and two squares.
The aptly named Velké Náměstí (Great Square) and Malé Náměstí (Small Square) are where Hradec Králové’s spirit shows its two sides. The Small Square is a quiet place with just a few benches and a unique sculpture of a man riding a bike. However, the Great Square is bursting with energy. Restaurants and cafes line its boundary and some of the city’s most historic sites appear in it.
On one end you’ll notice the 16th-century Bílá Věž Clock Tower soaring above the city center. The “White Tower” is the tallest landmark in Hradec and offers fantastic views of the urban area and distant landscape. Next to it is the Cathedral of the Holy Spirit, an impressive Gothic brick church that Pope John Paul II once visited.
The center of the square is pretty ugly, to be honest. Besides the richly adorned Marian Column, there’s nothing but parking spots. There are three other buildings of note in the Great Square. One is the lovely Church of the Assumption of the Virgin Mary with its pale yellow exterior and its pair of green towers. The second is the Gallery of Modern Art, which displays an amazing collection of modern art. The other is the eye-popping Dům U Špuláků, a vibrant red house that serves as the upper entrance to Bono Publico.
Bono Publico is a reconstructed stairway with lighting and music, that cuts through a quiet park. If you keep going south from here, you’ll get to the Orlice River. Wandering westward along the lake will bring you to the wonderful Jirask’s Gardens. The park serves as the confluence of the Orlice and Elbe Rivers. It’s also home to a community of semiaquatic rodents called nutria. The herbivorous creatures look very similar to a capybara and caught me by surprise when I first saw them. Don’t be alarmed, although an invasive species, they are generally harmless.
Another highlight of Jirask’s Gardens is the Wooden Church of Saint Nickolas. The Catholic church was relocated to Hradec Kralove from Slovakia some time ago and stands almost picture-perfect in the middle of the park.
Heading north along the Elbe River, you’ll come across the Hučák Elbe Hydroelectric Plant, an exquisite art nouveau building. Further ahead on the same side of the river is the East Bohemian Museum. English audio tours are available at the museum, where you’ll learn about historical and regional history.
Alternative | Along with Pardubice, Hradec is another great option for staying in East Bohemia. If you’re without a car and want to explore the region by bus and train, the two larger cities are excellent options.
WHERE TO STAY | Hotel U Královny Elišky (a wellness retreat) / Boutique Hotel Mezi švy (boutique hotel) / Apartments 4u: KAMPUS Hradec Králové (an apartment option)
POTSTEJN | A CASTLE ON THE HILL
Potstejn is a delightful village on the border of the Hradec Karlove and Pardubice regions. There are two specific reasons to visit here – the castle and the brewery.
Potstejn Castle stands on a hill, towering over the network of houses and shops that make up the village. It’s a wonderful hike up to the ruins, crossing trees that reach for the sky and revealing scenic views. The late 13th-century castle features the Chapel of Saint John of Nepomuk and the possibility for guided tours.
Afterward, head down to Clock Brewery for some food and drink. People from all over the region specifically come here for the microbrew options it offers. The modern pub has a wonderful variety, including the possibility to fill bottles from their taps.
USTI NAD ORLICI | THE TEXTILE TOWN
Usti nad Orlici is a quiet town east of Pardubice that grew due to its production of textiles. A lot of Usti’s highlights can be found right around its main square – Mirové Namesti. While it isn’t as large or lively as some of the enter town centers in this article, it’s still a cute, colorful square. Pop-up markets often appear and grabbing a coffee on Sme Cafe’s deck is a great way to relax during summer.
A short walk to its north is the Church of the Assumption of the Virgin Mary. The 1700s Baroque church has a splendid interior and a peaceful garden completed by its quaint meditation chapel.
A block to the east of Mirové Square you’ll find the Hernych’s Vila, a striking yellow building that’s home to the Municipal Museum of Usti nad Orlici. The former home of a local factory family is reconstructed in the Art Nouveau style and regularly shows a variation of exhibits. The last time I was there, pieces from noted science fiction writer Karel Čapek were on display.
Day Trip Idea | Usti nad Orlici is right between Litomyšl and Potstejn, making it a neat place to stop over when visiting the two.
FAVORITE FOOD SPOTS IN USTI NAD ORLICI:
Restaurace Zastávka | I’ve been here multiple times and the food is always excellent.
Chaplin Restaurant | Good food, great service, and reasonable prices. The patio is a nice place to have a beer during the warmer months.
Chata Hvězda | A restaurant with tasty food on top of Andrlův Chlum Mountain. You can ask for keys to the observation tower here to see some excellent views of the surrounding area.
What The Pho Bistro | This is my favorite non-Czech eatery in Usti nad Orlici. The Vietnamese restaurant, which the Czech Republic has many, doubles as a sort of mini Vietnamese grocer.
WHERE TO STAY | Hotel Uno (an established hotel) / Penzion Quattro (centrally located) / Apartment Corriger (apartment on a budget)
CASTOLOVICE & KOSTELEC | THE CHATEAU TOWNS
Častolovice and Kostelec nad Orlici are two lovely neighboring towns in the Hradec Kralove region. Local visitors flock to these parts in the springtime for various reasons.
In Častolovice they come for the magnificent Častolovice Castle and Park. The castle is an esteemed Czech wedding destination, offering several rooms for happy couples to get hitched in. Don’t worry though, you can also purchase a ticket on your own and visit the extravagant interior. The vast castle park plays host to a mini-zoo with various farm animals and larger fenced-in areas that wildlife calls home.
The larger Kostelec nad Orlici is a hot spot for flower watching during the springtime. I’m not kidding, when I came here there were so many people wandering around, searching for the blooming flowers behind the chateau. The “snowflake flower” as they call it appears early on in the spring when the heavy snows haven’t fully thawed.
The park they are spotted in is the New Chateau in Kostelec nad Orlici, a fancy manor house with an excellent coffee shop called Toniova zámecká kavárna.
