Ulcinj is one of my favorite towns in Montenegro, and a place I consider to be among the most underrated places in the Balkans.
I truly mean that. It’s somewhere that just feels like a perfect backpacking town, but without all the actual backpackers.
While it doesn’t have the sheer beauty of Kotor or the glitz and glam of Budva, it makes up for it with its genuineness and one of the best beaches in the country.
The people are laid back in Ulcinj, which probably has something to do with the large Albanian population. There’s a strong coffee culture, and your dollar, or should I say euro, will take you further than the rest of Montenegro.
I’ve visited the charming coastal town twice now, and each time I was sad to leave. But you aren’t here for my emotions. You’re here to find out why the town should be added to your Montenegro itinerary.
This is a short Ulcinj guide, with all the main highlights, tips on where to eat, and a few accommodation options. I also share some worthy day-trip destinations for those looking to base themselves here.
Here are the best things to do in Ulcinj, Montenegro.
Explore Ulcinj's Old Town
Ulcinj’s Old Town doesn’t get nearly as much hype as Budva’s or Kotor’s, but it’s still a delightful place to explore.
It sits on a small peninsula and offers gorgeous views from the fortress walls and cobbled streets within them. Sunset is a particularly beautiful time to come to the old town for panoramas of the Adriatic.
You’ll still find a bit of the trademark Venetian style known in this part of the world; however, it’s much more layered than that now. There is a strong mixture of architectural styles that’s heavily influenced by the previous Ottoman rule.
Here are some of the highlights of Ulcinj Old Town:
Ulcinj Fortress (Tvrđava Ulcinj) | The stone fortress that makes up the old town. It’s a small labyrinth of stone walls, souvenir shops, guesthouses, and restaurants now. It’s been restored many times throughout the years.
Museum of Local History in Ulcinj | A small ethnographic, archaeological, and art museum within the city walls. There aren’t many exhibits, but it’s worth the visit to see the city’s historical artifacts. Entry is €1.
Church-Mosque Ulcinj | The former church was turned into a mosque in the 16th century. It serves as a portion of the museum now.
Fortress Walls | There are several openings in the walls that look out to the open sea.
Feel like Godzilla on Long Beach
For many within Montenegro, Ulcinj is known as having the most impressive beaches in the country.
The main reason why? The soft sand beach known simply as Long Beach, that follows the Montenegrin coast for almost 13 km (8 miles).
It’s a behemoth of a beach with a bit of something for everyone. Beach clubs are there for the partying type, sunbeds are available for hire for those wanting shade, or head to Bojana Island’s nudist beach to let it all hang out.
Of course, there’s plenty of space to just plop down and enjoy the sun and water at your own leisure. Most adventure activities, like kitesurfing, are at the southern end of the beach.
If you look at a map, you’ll see that Long Beach is separated into smaller beach sections. These are named after different restaurants or campsites, so if you’re looking for a food or sun lounge rental, you can just pick one of these and head there.
Now you might be wondering why I mentioned feeling like Godzilla in Long Beach. That’s because it’s possible to walk hundreds of feet out into the sea before getting even waist-deep. I couldn’t help but picture myself as the “king of monsters,” with water dripping from my body as I walked slowly back to shore.
I’ll admit, the Godzilla thing isn’t the only reason to visit. I found that Long Beach was one of the very few places in the Mediterranean where you can find a site that feels like your own. Sometimes you just want to avoid the endless sunbeds and extreme crowds.
Things To Do | Camping, Parasailing, Kitesurfing, Exploring Bojana Island, Swimming
Popular Beach Bar Areas | Miami Beach, White Beach, Safari Beach, Tropican Beach, Hills Beach, MCM Beach, Cabo Beach, Marbuena Beach, Sandbox Kitesurf Beach, Ivan Beach (Plaža Ivana), Bojana Island
Sunbed Rental | Rates start at around €10 for two beds and an umbrella and rise during peak season or for “VIP treatment.”
Relax At The Beaches Around Old Town
Where Long Beach is more of a wild beach where you can feel all alone, the beaches near Ulcinj fortress and the Old Town are the more rugged Mediterranean types.
Think Italy or Croatia, with pebble shores that sit snug between vertiginous cliffs, rows of colorful umbrellas, and historic buildings just a few steps away. If you’re not looking to make the trek (or drive) out to Long Beach, these are a good alternative, albeit with more crowds.
Small Beach
The aptly named Small Beach is Ulcinj’s main city beach. It sits underneath hilltop guesthouses and resorts and is always buzzing with energy. Restaurants line the promenade, as does Gradski Park, and the iconic Central Mosque (Centralna Džamija Ulcinj).
Hearing the calls for prayer in the evening while you’re floating in the sea was a unique experience that felt exclusive to Ulcinj during my Balkans travels.
The Old Town sits to the west of Small Beach, and for a fee, sun umbrellas can be hired, and toilets can be accessed. It gets busy in the summer.
Plaža Liman
A small stone beach that’s on the opposite side of Ulcinj Old Town from Small Beach. It’s just past St. Nikola Church and takes walking down a steep pathway to reach.
I really enjoyed Plaža Liman. It felt very intimate, probably beacuse it’s on the backside of the fortress. Sun beds are for hire, but only in the heart of summer.
Plaža Liman II
Down the road from the first Plaža Liman, there is a second one with the same name. They are similar in that they are small, almost hidden coves with larger rocks and pebbles instead of sand.
But, unlike the one closer to the fortress, Plaža Liman II doesn’t have a downhill entry. It also sees fewer crowds than places like Small Beach.
Try Some Fresh Seafood
After a long day in the sun, it’s hard to beat an ice-cold drink and some fresh seafood!
The whole Montenegro coast is known for its exquisite Adriatic cuisine. But, as I mentioned before, it’s just a bit lower in price here. That doesn’t mean they sacrifice quality, though; there is still good food to be found.
I suggest heading down to Ulcinjskih Moreplovaca for a great atmosphere and pretty views. It’s the street that lines Small Beach, and is lively no matter what time of day.
There are a number of restaurants to choose from with open-air seating. During the day, a cool breeze gently eases through and around sunset, the old town starts lighting up.
Grilled octopus and shrimp, plus catch-of-the-day fish, is the go-to meal for most, although you’ll find other typical Balkan dishes here too.
Other great spots for dining are inside the are within the Old Town and along Rruga Hafiz Ali Ulqinaku.
Hike From Small Beach to Long Beach
In my opinion, the best way to get from Small Beach to Long Beach is the coastal path that leads there. I hiked this path on each of my visits and consider it one of the top things to do in Ulcinj for nature lovers.
It takes a few hours, but it really shows you a more hidden side to Ulcinj. You’ll head past some of the bars and nightclubs, through a bit of forest, and finally along some slanted stone that overlooks the Adriatic Sea.
It gets hot in Ulcinj. I mean, really, really hot.
But what I liked was that the majority of the walk is under the trees. You also have the option of stopping off at the many “beaches” along the way. I put the quotation marks in there because they are more like rocky areas that you can jump into the water from.
STOPPING POINTS ALONG THE ULCINJ COASTAL WALK
Albatros Beach
Nonna’s Beach
Ribarska Konoba Skarpina Restaurant & Beach
Plaza Skalista
Svetina Beach
Cape of Gerana
Skafos Seafood Restaurant
Some points of interest before the pathway include the Aquarius White Beach, Ibiza Beach, Sapore di Mare, Ladies Beach, and Higo Restaurant & Lounge. Most of these involve you buying food or drink to access the nearby water.
Technically, the Ulcinj Walk, as the trek is named, starts after these at Hotel Albatross. But if you’re coming from the town center, you’ll have to walk past all of these.
The path is the perfect activity before ending the day lounging on Long Beach. Even with some stopping, it shouldn’t take more than a couple of hours.
Word of Warning | You might come across a snake or two on the walkway. I saw a large one on my last trip (and yes, I jumped), but it quickly slivered away. Sometimes nature gives you a good ol’ fright, but that shouldn’t deter you from exploring it!
See Some of the Surrounding nature
Speaking of nature, Ulcinj has more than just the beach and coastline.
If you stay at Hostel Center (which I’ll link below), the first thing the owner mentions is the nearby olive groves. The ancient trees are massive and a source of pride throughout the town.
There is also the aforementioned hiking trail. Finding a cozy private cove with the lingering scent of pine trees above is a special way to spend the day.
Although I’ve never been there, I have to mention Solana Ulcinj as well. This is a park that houses the Ulcinj Salt Pans and is known for its many species of birds, some of which include flamingos and pelicans.
I’ve heard differing reports on difficulties entering the premises, so I can’t give a definitive answer on how smooth a trip there would be. It would be best to ask your guesthouse. I didn’t go because it just wasn’t the time of year to see the birds. But if you’re an avid birdwatcher, it’s worth a try.
Entry for the salt pans is €2.50 at the Solana “Bajo Sekulic” building.
Drive The Montenegro Coastline
The Montenegro seafront has some of the most beautiful towns I’ve ever seen. Places that sit between deep blue waters and craggy mountainscapes.
If you’ve rented a car, then you’ll be able to see most of the shoreline as a day trip. Here are some of the more popular towns you can stop at along the way:
Bar | I spent a couple of nights here waiting for the train to Serbia. It has a beautiful old town that sits in the mountains a few kilometers from the shoreline. There’s also a nice beach and a few spectacular buildings like the Church of St. John Vladimir and King Nikola’s Palace.
Petrovac | A small, historic beach town with a Venetian castle that is similar to Ulcinj’s, but much, much smaller.
Sveti Stefan | The luxurious resort islet is one of the most visited day trips from Budva.
Budva | A bustling resort city, with a spectacular Old Town and wonderful beaches. There are some really cool things to see just on the outskirts, as well as fun boat trips to Sveti Nikola Island.
Kotor | Often considered a must-see when visiting Montenegro. I’ve written in-depth about the historic town in my ‘Kotor guide.’ It’s the gateway to the Bay of Kotor and popular towns like Perast, Tivat, and Herceg Novi.
Alternatively, you could stay close to Ulcinj and see the coast by boat, like this Crystal Beach & Old Ulcinj Day Tour.
Day trips to Albania and Lake Skadar
The most common day trips from Ulcinj will undoubtedly be to Montenegro’s other seaside towns. However, if you want a bit of an adventure, then Lake Skadar and/or Albania.
Lake Skadar
Lake Skadar is beautiful, as you’ll notice on the drive to Ulcinj. It’s a gigantic freshwater lake that doubles as a nature park. There are areas with endless amounts of water lilies, crumbling fortifications, and bustling fishing villages.
You can also enjoy various outdoor lake activities.
I’ve only bused by it on my Montenegro trip, but I spent some time near the border in the little villages of Zogaj and Shiroka during my Albania travels. I can definitely recommend a visit.
Shkoder
Ulcinj is ridiculously close to the Albanian border, and the city itself is actually made up of a large majority of Albanian settlers. I think that’s what gives it the comforting, relaxing, and easy-going feel.
If you walk to the end of Long Beach and Bojana Island, you can actually see across the border.
Albania is a beautiful country, one that is often misunderstood by outsiders. It’s also one of my favorite places in the world and just a short drive away. The closest city to Ulcinj will be the bicycle-friendly Shkoder, a beautiful historic city that’s the gateway to the Albanian Alps.
It’s known for its stunning castle that looms over the city, a wonderful food scene, and epic nearby sights like Mesi Bridge. If you have some extra time and don’t mind doing a border crossing, then you should think about a day or weekend trip there.
For a more detailed look at Shkoder, check out my ‘Shkoder guide.’
Getting There | The buses have been significantly cut down between Ulcinj and Shkoder in recent years. If this changes, feel free to let me know! In the meantime, a company called Drita Travel, which can be booked on FlixBus, has a few routes. The best bet, however, is to go by car. This will give you the whole day to explore.
GETTING TO ULCINJ
Once in Montenegro, Ulcinj is an easy trip from almost anywhere. However, all routes will most likely bring you through Podgorica. It’s just a few hours by bus from the main Podgorica bus station, and buses leave often.
By this, I mean every 30 to 60 minutes throughout the day. The trip should cost you between 5 and 10 euros. You should also expect to pay a 1 euro baggage fee to your driver if you have stowaway luggage.
I found the website busticket4.me to be very handy while traveling in Montenegro. Timetables with specifics for routes through the country can be found there. Overall, the bus system is easy to navigate, especially compared to a country like Albania.
WHERE TO STAY IN ULCINJ
Hostel Center | A fun hostel with a lovely owner. I stayed here a couple of times and enjoyed evenings in the courtyard and chatting about Ulcinj with the owner. They have dorms and double rooms at a good price.
Friendly House | Budget-friendly apartments directly on Long Beach. Don’t expect anything fancy, but it’s a great option for those looking for a beach holiday.
Apartments Stanaj | Modern mid-range rooms nestled near the bridge to Long Beach.
Apartments Hillside | Perched on the hillside near the Old Town, and offering wonderful views at a good price.
Hotel Palata Venezia | Mid-range apartments in the heart of the old town. There are spectacular views from the balconies.
Holiday Park Olive Tree | Beautiful bungalows set amongst the olive trees on the outskirts of town.
For more options, check here.
