Known as the “Stone City,” Gjirokaster is an unbelievably enchanting municipality in the heavily Greek influenced Southern Albania. With a dazzling old Bazaar, UNESCO protected Old Town, and food that will make your taste buds tingle, it’s like a treasure chest for travelers.
That’s without mentioning the pristine medieval castle and secret bunker waiting to be explored.
It’s a place with immense history, and the birthplace of two of Albania’s most famous figures, Ismail Kadare and Enver Hoxha. With steep stone slab pavement and the slanted roofs of Ottoman-era homes, Gjirokaster is a place that has been revered by many.
It also happens to be one of my favorite destinations in Albania. With that in mind, I decided to compile a list of the best things to do in Albania’s “City of Stone.”
Learn The History of Gjirokaster Castle
Maybe the most beautiful castle in all of Albania, the Gjirokaster Castle looks like it could be in Game Of Thrones. Unlike the popular fantasy show though, the history of the fortress is entirely reality based.
From medieval castle, to military shelter, to wartime prison, the Gjirokaster Castle has kept busy throughout the years. Nowadays it is home to multiple attractions that add to its ever growing allure.
There is a National Arms Museum located inside, showing off Albanian arms from its independence in 1912 up until the end of WWII.
Along the walls, you’ll see an abandoned US Air Force jet with a complicated history, as well as information dedicated to native species of bat. In the courtyard there is a stage that is used for cultural events and the famous clock tower that can be seen from almost every inch of the town.
For an entrance fee of just 400 Lek (as of writing), the Gjirokaster Castle is a must visit when in the “Stone City.”
Visit Ali Pasha’s Bridge
One of the coolest things in Gjirokaster, and my personal favorite, is the hike to Ali Pasha’s Bridge. Don’t be fooled by the bridge at the end of the name, the old structure is actually a piece of a larger aqueduct system.
Commissioned back in the early 19th century by Ali Pasha, the majority of the aqueducts no longer exist. However, this part in the Dunavat Quarter survived, and with it the name of its creator.
Nowadays, the aqueduct is used as a footpath for goats, and as a photo spot for the occasional hiker. I’ve heard that if you come at sunset, and are lucky, you’ll see the silhouette of goats crossing the bridge.
Sounds amazing right?
While I can’t claim to have seen this, I did cross paths with a herd of goats that were heading in the bridge’s direction. So the possibility is certainly there.
Either way, the 30 minutes hike it takes to get to the “bridge” from the city center is well worth it.
Explore The Surrounding Nature
If the thought of hiking to Ali Pasha’s Bridge excites you, then the surrounding nature should as well. If you keep heading along the path that leads you to the bridge, you’ll find some beautiful hills with stunning views.
In fact, the majority of the region is full of amazing hills. When the snow melts away, there are plenty of hikes in the area that will appeal to the active types.
But sometimes you just want to relax, or stay clear of the spring and summer heat. If that’s the case, then there are some beautiful natural springs just a short drive away.
This part of Albania is overshadowed by the Albanian Alps, but it has its own unique attraction. I suggest exploring some of that beauty!
Take A Trip To The Blue Eye
If you ask anyone in Albania where to find a natural spring, the Blue Eye is the place they’ll point you. It’s a popular tourist attraction with clear waters and magnificent scenery .
There are a few shaded restaurants around the area, and plenty of spots to pop your feet in. But watch out, there are a ton of tiny frogs hopping around!
When the sun is scorching, it’s the perfect place to spend the day.
The bus ride to the Blue Eye takes just under an hour, and costs 200 Lek. Give yourself some extra time in case of bus trouble. The bus I was on broke down, so I had to wait along the side of the road for the next one. I have to admit though, this was the only time I had troubles with transportation in Albania.
Take A Stroll Around The Old Bazaar
The old Bazaar is the heart and soul of Gjirokaster. Roaming through the streets at dusk is one of the highlights. The bright lights and colorful decor emphasize the striking features of the center of tourism.
Check out the souvenirs, marvel at the antiques, and taste the local cuisine. Take some pictures, and embrace the lively atmosphere of the Bazaar and you won’t regret it.
Try All The Traditional Foods
The food in Gjirokaster is…AMAZING! Honestly, I didn’t have a bad meal while in the stone city.
Like it’s UNESCO brother Berat, Gjirokaster is all about the traditional Albanian food. Most restaurants do home cooked food (and wine), and they do it really well. Some common things you’ll see on the menus are Qofte (meatballs), Qifqi (rice balls), stuffed pepper, and stuffed grape leaves.
The city is home to a large Greek minority as well, so if you’ve been to Greece, some of the foods might be recognizable. However, the cook’s here won’t hesitate to tell you how their food is truly unique to Gjirokaster.
I feel it wouldn’t be fair to talk about all this food, and not mention some of the places that stood out to me. The Tarator Soup (cold cucumber soup) at Kurveleshi was extremely refreshing, especially on a hot day. Kujtim Restaurant was both cheap and delicious, as well as Rrapi Restaurant, which stands right next to it.
To be honest, you can’t go wrong with any restaurant in the old Bazaar. I suggest wandering around the cobbled streets and trying a different eatery for every meal.
Visit Skenduli House
There are tons of amazing homes in Gjirokaster, but three stand out the most. The first is Enver Hoxha’s home, which is now an ethnographic museum. The second is Zekate House, which stands on a hill overlooking the city. Lastly, there is Skenduli House, which I find the most charming.
The detailed woodwork and impressive size of the home will make you think it’s a small castle.
What makes it so special though, is the guided tour from a member of the family that owns it. It costs 200 Lek and you’ll get an in-depth history lesson about the family’s origin and daily life during Ottoman rule.
Gjirokaster is known for its spectacular Ottoman-era houses, and Skenduli House is the one to visit.
Explore Beneath A Hill In The Cold War Tunnel
Underneath the castle and deep inside a hill, the Gjirokaster Cold War Tunnel stands the tests of time. The bunker was built in the seventies and eighties, and shows a period of Albania’s history that was grown from fear.
The coolest thing about this spooky tunnel are the items left inside. They appear the way they were left when the Cold War ended. It’s one thing to see the staged exhibits of Bunk’Art, and another to see an abandoned bunker with untouched items from the communist regime’s final days.
To see the Cold War Tunnel, you need to first visit the information center. It will cost 200 Lek and one of the workers will give you a short tour of the hidden tunnel.
Sip On Some Coffee And Enjoy The Views
Some of my favorite times in Gjirokaster were when I sat back, relaxed, and sipped on an espresso. I highly suggest you do the same.
The imposing castle and old stone houses make for an idyllic scene. The beautiful hills and lush grassy valley only add to the city’s charm. Some places I recommend are…
The bar and restaurant at Hotel Kodra have (in my opinion) the most scenic views in Gjirokaster. The cafe’s in the Bazaar are perfect for people watching at night, with their bright lights and vibrant colors. Friend’s Hostel has an amazing view of the castle and clocktower, and Mantho Cafe’s terrace and tasty coffee were particular favorites.
Whether it’s a cold drink to beat the summer heat, or a coffee to start the day, enjoying Gjirokaster from a cafe is worth the time.
As I mentioned before, Gjirokaster was a highlight of my travels through Albania. I have fond memories, and an even greater excitement to come back to the city.
But for now, I’m happy to share some of the top things to do in the magical “Stone City.”
