Fethiye is a pristine port town in the heart of the Turkish Riviera. Its stunning sunset views, easy access to world-class beaches, and hilltop “ghost town” are a must-visit on any southern Turkey itinerary.
My partner and I spent a wonderful month here, soaking up the sun, exploring the coastline, and embracing the city’s cat culture. Fethiye was my first taste of travel in Turkey and, honestly, it was a blast!
We originally planned on staying for two weeks, but in the end, we felt the need to extend our stay. After all, the food was delicious, the people were friendly, and there were enough sights to keep us busy for our whole trip. That’s quite an easy task with so many amazing things to do in Fethiye!
This article is a short catalog of my experiences, the best places to visit, day trip options, and what part of town to stay in. Here is my handpicked guide to Fethiye, Turkey.
VISIT THE AMYNTAS ROCK TOMBS
Chiseled into the flattened sides of a craggy mountain, the Amyntas Rock Tombs oversee the city of Fethiye. Once at the center of the ancient city of Telmessos, they are one of the few remaining symbols from Lycia.
There is almost no way to visit the city center without laying eyes on the fascinating structures. Reminiscent of historic construction such as Petra in Jordan, the tombs are easily accessible and quickly explored.
While the tombs are visible from outside the gates, there are reasons to pay the small entry fee into the ruins. Getting up close and personal with the rock tombs in this region of Turkey is a tall task. Many, such as those in Dalyan, are difficult to reach. You’ll also have a spectacular field of vision of Fethiye Bay, especially if you come at sunset.
As the sun creeps towards the horizon the golden hour offers a magnificent picture. The tombs and rock faces become illuminated by the light and the sea twinkles in the distance. It’s the ideal time to visit if you can manage.
Don’t forget to keep an eye out around town too, historical cisterns and ancient tombs are scattered about. They appear between buildings, in parks, and along the rocks behind the castle.
WANDER THE STREETS OF OLD TOWN FETHIYE
Between Ece Marina and the Amyntas Tombs, a series of walking streets, markets, and small shops make up Old Town Fethiye. Families hang out, sipping tea, and some older locals occupy their time with the Turkish board games Okey and Tavla.
A few spots stood out to me while strolling around the area. The multi-block walking area known as Fethiye Plaza is great for a coffee and a bite to eat. Restaurants and fashionable stores line its streets and sipping on çay, people-watching, and socializing is actively encouraged.
Behind the plaza is the centrally-located, beautiful Yeni Hamidiye Mosque. It’s a small mosque with a single minaret, white stone walls, and a simple interior with pretty paintings.
A couple hundred meters away is the old Fethiye Fish Market. Surrounded by sweet shops, butchers, and the like, the market’s entry opens to a courtyard of fish stands. Want to enjoy the catch of the day? Pick out what you want, have a seat, and wait while they grill it up for you. It isn’t the cheapest option in town, but the atmosphere is enthralling. When you’re done, walk it off by making the short journey to the castle.
Fethiye Castle sits on a grassy hillside overlooking the old town and the city’s boat-lined harbor. While it’s nothing more than a series of picturesque ruins now, the castle was once a formidable keep. Most who visit come for the panoramic view of the city.
There isn’t much information to be found out on a visit here. Fethiye Castle’s origins are mostly unwritten, with bits and pieces being deduced, but not much solid evidence to back it up. Fethiye dates back to the Lycian era, so you’d assume there was a fortress of some kind way back when.
However, the current structure is thought to have been built as a crusader castle. At least its foundations suggest as much, although the tattered remains you see most likely come from the 15th century when The Knights of St. John had a large influence in Fethiye. The one certain thing? Fethiye Castle was abandoned during the Ottoman period.
Current Events | When I was last Fethiye, the castle was closed to the public. Access points were blocked off and warning signs were up. While I didn’t see anyone working there, Fethiye Castle is supposedly undergoing renovations. Considering most previous complaints were about the dangers of the loose ruins, restoration efforts seem to be much needed.
WALK THE WATERFRONT
Fethiye’s waterfront can be split into three distinct sections, all with clean, easy-to-walk promenades connecting them.
In the northern part of the city, the stony shores of Çalış Beach offer easy entry into the calm waters of Fethiye Bay. Running parallel to it is a large pathway, lined with waterfront businesses and beach access points.
I enjoyed strolling around here at all hours of the day. In the early morning, a cool breeze picks up, combating the warmth of the rising sun. There are plenty of neighborhood cafes, so if you want a pick-me-up for your walk you can grab a quick to-go coffee. In the midday heat, the water’s edge is just a step away and in the evenings the sunset is worth the visit alone.
It takes around 45 minutes to walk the coastline here, unless, of course, you stop to watch the turtles during hatching season.
In the central portion of Fethiye’s coastline, you’ll find the Fethiye Kordon. The wide promenade stretches from the Şehit Fethi Bey Park to the canal near Uğur Mumcu Park and seems to be the preferred walking spot for most. As you saunter along, you’ll be treated to striking views of the islands off Fethiye and the myriad of boats gliding across the bay.
Along Fethiye Kordon’s interior, you’ll notice grassy parks and outdoor benches that make perfect lounging areas. About midway through you’ll find seaside restaurants with Turkish breakfast deals and catch-of-the-day options.
If you decide to wander down the whole promenade, you can expect around an hour from one end to the other.
In the south of Fethiye, the boardwalk is lined with charter boats from Uğur Mumcu Park to the marina. It’s a great area to wander around if you like ports, with unique “pirate boats” and sailing yachts parked for the night. Some interesting statues appear in the park too, and seafood restaurants border the pathway.
If you want to rent a boat during your stay, this is the place to go. Be warned though, in the summer the workers can be fierce in their pursuit to get you on board.
I spent maybe 25 days roaming the seaside avenues during my month-long stay in Fethiye. It was a great way to get a feel for the city and its inhabitants, and one of my favorite things to do.
HANG OUT IN SEHIT FETHI BEY PARK
As I mentioned before Şehit Fethi Bey Park runs along the edge of the promenade near the waterfront. It’s an active place, with designated play areas, seaside benches, and interweaving pathways.
I found myself meandering through patches of grass and funky sculptures in the park more often than I thought I would. At its northern edge, the bottom portion of the Çalış Natural Park & Bird Paradise sits, with loads of bird species claiming their spots on a tiny uninhabited island. You can waste away hours watching the funny interactions between wildlife here. To enhance your watching experience, grab a tea or espresso from the Coffee Island cart nearby.
While this aspect didn’t really apply to me, those traveling with young ones will find the park has plenty to offer. Families gather here daily, kids enjoy the jungle gyms, and workout stations fill up with fitness buffs.
For me, I enjoyed observing the birds or sitting along the seafront during the last traces of sunlight.
EMBRACE THE TEA AND COFFEE CULTURE
Every serious coffee drinker has heard of Turkish coffee. Caffeine connoisseurs worldwide kickstart their morning with the unfiltered, aromatic Turkish-made style of coffee. Prepared with finely ground beans, frothed up over the open flame, and poured from the iconic cezve, it’s a truly unique way to experience your daily “Cuppa Joe.”
That being said, it’s not uncommon to see a coffee addict with the habit of getting their daily beverage made in the same way, every day. If this sounds like you, you’re in luck! Fethiye has plenty of cafes around town specialising in the typical favorites. Many places also have lattes, americanos, and espressos on the menu to go along with the traditional way.
Tea on the other hand is taken more seriously in local shops and restaurants. Did you know that Turkey is the world’s largest tea-consuming country per capita? Yeah, that’s right, more than even the UK, Ireland, or China. Turks love their tea, consuming around seven pounds per person, per year.
Often drunken from a tulip-shaped glass, straight black, no milk, and maybe a couple of sugar cubes, a cup can be had for less than fifty cents pretty much anywhere. If you want to experience a taste of Turkish culture, embracing the tea and coffee life is the easiest way to do it.
Here are some of my favorite places to grab a cup of coffee or tea in Fethiye:
Cervos Coffee Roasters | This company has two locations in Fethiye, one at Çalış Beach and another on Yerguzlar Cd. down the street from the MMM Migros. The Çalış Beach location has amazing views from its seating area on the promenade.
No48 Coffee Garden | It’s a little pricey, but a work-friendly establishment with great desserts and tasty coffee.
Köşe Kahve Fethiye | This is my favorite place to have a coffee in town. It’s on the way to the Amyntas Rock Tombs and has a cozy (like the name implies) atmosphere, excellent service, and friendly neighborhood cats.
Other Coffee Shops | There are a ton of great cafes in the old town at Fethiye Plaza. Some places are packed during peak hours and range from ultra-modern establishments to traditional roasteries. For spectacular views, you can stop at a place along the Fethiye Kordon.
Fethiye Tea Shops | My favorite place for tea was definitely the little coffee cart by the bird park. Anytime I can animal watch while sipping on my çay, I’m satisfied. Plus the owner, like most people I met in Fethiye, was super friendly! My best suggestion for grabbing a cup of tea is to find somewhere that looks comfortable. I went to dozens of places, many unnamed on maps and you get a similar glass everywhere. So, the best thing to do is head somewhere for its view or homely feel.
SPEND THE DAY EXPLORING KAYAKOY
An old abandoned settlement sits on the outskirts of Fethiye, tracing its roots back to ancient Greek times. Karmylessos or Levissi as it was once known, now goes by the name of Kayaköy and is a must-see on your visit.
The ‘ghost town’ has been empty ever since a Greek-Turkish population exchange in 1923, besides a small population on the outside of its gates. Preserved as a type of outdoor museum village, it can be entered for a moderate price (a few USD). Upon admission, you’ll have free reign to investigate the maze-like jumble of desolate buildings.
This isn’t like the one-lane ghost towns from ‘the Old West’ in the US, there are fourteen chapels, two churches, and two school buildings to search through. That’s to go along with the plethora of neighborhood homes. Signs are hung around the village at all the major sights, with arrows pointing you in the right direction. Give yourself a half-day trip at the very least to truly appreciate Kayaköy.
There are a few restaurants outside the entry point, and although it wasn’t in service on my visit, a cafe inside. To be safe, bring everything you need with you. This includes swimwear and towels if you want the full experience.
Trails from inside the barriers lead over craggy mountaintops toward hidden beaches at Cold Water Bay (Soguk Su Koyu). From the old hilltop church and Kayaköy Summit, you can see the resplendent water below. Hiking to the bay should take close to 2 hours roundtrip.
Bus to Kayaköy | Buses leave from the stop in front of Carrefour, outside the Fethiye Bus Station (maps). A seasonal schedule is posted at the bus stop on a piece of paper if you want the route times in advance. You’ll be dropped off right across the street from the gates to the abandoned village and picked up right in front of them. Bus prices will be displayed on a piece of paper inside the minibus.
HIT THE BEACH AT OLUDENIZ
Ölüdeniz is one of Turkey’s most renowned beaches and it’s just a short dolmuş ride from the Fethiye center. There are actually two parts to the town, an inland area filled with tourist restaurants and nightclubs and another with a pristine pebble beach.
I’m going to focus on the latter here, because, in all honesty, it’s the part worth visiting. Ölüdeniz Beach has all the classic qualities of a Mediterranean beach; brilliant azure water, a calming tide, and rugged cliffsides surrounding its shore.
It runs north to south, from a small hook that separates the picturesque Blue Lagoon nature park to the coastal road that leads to Faralya. While the lagoon surely is beautiful, it doesn’t feel much like a natural reserve. There are heavy crowds, restaurants and businesses lining the edge, and paid entry/umbrellas at Kumburnu Beach.
However, if you’re here during the shoulder season or are traveling with family and want a pool-like experience it is worth the visit.
The center of the extensive Ölüdeniz Beach is known as Belcekiz Beach. It’s a public expanse of small, smooth rocks and shimmering water that offers a cool escape in the hotter months. At the southern end of Ölüdeniz, a lively beach bar turns up the toons, and you can watch competitive beach volleyball matches. Head up the steps to the main road for some fantastic views of the bay.
Depending on your interests, you can look into exploring more of the underwater scene here. A snorkel is usually a prerequisite of mine when visiting the sea and the calm waters here are perfect for it.
Diving in Fethiye | For those wanting to do more than just snorkel, there are several wonderful dive sites along the peninsula near Ölüdeniz up to Fethiye. Keep in mind this is the Mediterranean, so don’t expect vibrant coral reefs and colorful tropical fish. However, the water has great visibility and there are often turtles about. For more information check out PADI’s map of dive sites in the area.
Alternatively, you can explore the coastline by going on a tandem paragliding tour. Dozens of people were floating above me when I visited, and after seeing the beach from a viewpoint above, I could see why it’s such a popular place to paraglide. If you want more options, here are some tandem tours in Ölüdeniz.
To catch the bus to Ölüdeniz from the Fethiye city center, head to the minibus stop (maps) on Gaffar Okkan Cd. You can also catch it anywhere along the route, although the routes are often difficult to find online. You can also wait outside the Carrefour near the bus station that I mentioned in the Kayaköy section.
MAKE YOUR WAY TO BUTTERFLY VALLEY
The coastline south of Ölüdeniz is simply breathtaking, with hidden coves and small valleys appearing out of nowhere. The easiest and most accessible of those areas is the magnificent Butterfly Valley.
Most visits here will require you to hop on a boat taxi or join a boat tour from Ölüdeniz, especially if you want to spend time at Kelebekler Vadisi Beach (Butterfly Valley Beach). Similar to Gjipe Beach in Albania, Butterfly Valley Beach appears between dramatic cliffs, at the end of a slender canyon. The pebble beach feels hidden from the world, with nothing to be seen past the rock face and only a small waterfall to be found as you head inland.
If you want to arrange a boat trip in advance, have a look at these Butterfly Valley tours or check out some more combination tour options.
It’s possible to reach, and even preferable for some, to head to Butterfly Valley by car or bus. This way, you can see the scenic views from up above. Where the canyon starts, parking spots emerge between the highway guards and the road and people spread out along the cliff edges. You can scramble down some of the rocks for fantastic shots of the valley, but please be careful, the drop is vertigo-inducing.
As another option, you can trek to the Butterfly Valley by either using the Lycian Way or following the coastal road. This is the option I did, but it’s not for the faint of heart, the route is close to 15 km roundtrip. It does, however, provide panoramic views the whole way there. I should also mention I did this in the spring when temperatures were mild and a thick fog awaited me at the end.
If you decide to journey there on foot, make sure to stop at Kidrak Beach and some of the smaller, concealed coves for a refreshing dip in the sea.
Other Things To Note | It’s possible to camp near Butterfly Valley Beach, on the valley floor. Although I didn’t try it myself, there should be a hiking path down from the top of the gorge.
WATCH SUNSET AT CALIS BEACH
Sunsets at Çalış Beach are a thing of beauty. The ever-popular small stone beach fills up with colorful umbrellas, sun loungers, and swarms of holidayers throughout the day. Its assorted populace tends to be British retirees, vacationers, and local fishermen, with most of them staying long hours until eventide.
I stayed just around the corner from the lengthy stretch of beach during the first weeks of my trip. Adding in an almost daily sunset walk along the Çalış Beach promenade. It’s a lively area around this time, with beach bars and restaurants blaring Tropical house music and groups splitting off to find the perfect seat for the show.
Fun Fact | The deadly scorpion drinking game and Turkish beach scene in James Bond: Skyfall was filmed at Çalış Beach.
Besides the inaccessible turtle-hatching area, the shoreline is freckled with people. From the surf school to the nature park, they all come to see the sun drop below the horizon. If you’re lucky, you’ll catch a glimpse of the Greek island of Rhodes’ silhouette. Don’t fret if you don’t, the hazy weather won’t stop a brilliant display of colors. And, unless a torrential downpour ensues, you’ll see the outline of Kizil Island traced along the skyline.
PICNIC BY THE WATER
As I wandered the seaside roads and neatly manicured parks of Fethiye, I found picnics to be the most common occurrence. As the workday came to an end or the weekend excitement arrived, locals came out in full force to breathe in the fresh air.
Anywhere with a direct view of the expansive, glimmering ripples of the Mediterranean, you’ll find a small gathering. The normal setup for a picnic in Fethiye consists of folding lounge chairs, an easily moveable tabletop, snacks, and a range of beverages. Most notable of the drinks? A heated mug of black tea accompanied by a collection of matching cups.
At Çalış Beach and Ölüdeniz, picnics resemble a regular beachgoing day—however, a new group filters in as the sun tanners escape the sun for a few hours. Şehit Fethi Bey Parkı finds itself flooded with families, parents allowing their children to run free as they sip on some çay.
The promenade comes to life during the waning hours of sunlight, food arrangements and blankets cover the grassy patches, and fishermen wait for a tug on their line. My favorite spot was the winding road toward Faralya. Scenic car stops pop up every few hundred meters and drivers and their passengers set up shop near the cliffside edges. You’re treated to breathtaking views of the Turquoise Coast and noticeable horizon.
Join in on the fun. Embrace the pleasant shoreline sights, the “sweet” smell of the sea, and the song of gently crashing waves. Grab some goods at the nearby market and embrace picnic life.
COUNT THE CATS OF FETHIYE
Cats, cats, and more cats. It’s almost impossible to go a day in Fethiye without seeing the friendly, furry creatures wandering about. They sprawl across park benches, meander into restaurants for a quick greet and eat, and generally just plop down wherever they feel like.
Cats are treated like kings in Fethiye. People embrace their presence, feeding them scraps, giving quick cuddles, and making sure they stay out of danger. It’s not uncommon to see bicyclists gliding through the streets in the evening, tossing store-bought food along the side of buildings for the hungry animals. Occasionally, we joined in on the tradition, handing snacks out to the “neighborhood gang.”
I found myself counting their numbers daily. If you’re a cat person, you’ll feel like you were dropped into a citywide cat cafe. They enjoy the attention, and in turn, experience a good life.
You might be wondering, what about the dogs? I can assure you they are there too. Although they prefer lounging around the Çalış Beach area more than the city center. Like their more acrobatic friends, the dogs are affectionate as well. Most are well-fed and therefore keep to themselves. Unless, of course, you’re willing to hand out pets. On your visit, make sure to say hello!
HOP ON A BOAT AND EXPLORE THE WATER
This part of the Mediterranean is known especially for its rugged coastline and smooth sailing waters. To go along with this, there’s a score of smaller islands to be discovered by boat. While it may be easy to waste away your holiday on the sunkissed shores of Fethiye, hopping on a boat is an excellent way to see what the bay has to offer.
Where To Go For Boat Tours | As I mentioned in my waterfront section, the boardwalk down by Uğur Mumcu Park and the marina are the spots to visit for tours. Of course, you can also ask your accommodation for recommendations as well. There are also plenty of options leaving from Ölüdeniz.
Most tours from Fethiye trips around the islands, most notably in the giant pirate ships in the harbor. Tours from Ölüdeniz usually head to the Butterfly Valley and other popular hard-to-get beaches. Expect some food, paid drink options, and multiple swimming stops on board. While some companies might advertise a trip to as many as 12 islands, don’t expect a visit to more than a handful for the day.
Looking to avoid signing up for a tour at the docks or with an agency? You can check out a list of different cruise and boat tours online. For more options, you can also have a look here.
As an adventurous alternative, you can look into joining a half-day sea-kayaking tour or a multi-day sailing trip from Fethiye to Olympos.
DAY TRIP TO DALYAN
Fethiye is a great base for day trips along the Turquoise Coast, with the Lycian Way towns just around the corner and beach towns popping up all the way to Marmaris. But, if I had to choose just one trip outside of Fethiye it would be Dalyan.
The riverside town is known for the impressive Kaunos Ruins, with its waterside amphitheater and picturesque setting. Life springs up along the river, with waterfront restaurants providing up-close views of the Tombs of the Kings and ‘catch of the day’ menus.
Boats float lazily along the Dalyan Strait, offering a stop at therapeutic mud baths, a tour of Lake Köyceğiz, and a visit to Iztuzu Beach. Turtle Beach, as it’s known, has a rescue center at one end and turtle-hatching zones spread across its sandy shores.
Fethiye Day Trip Option | If you’re just looking to do the aforementioned trip, it’s worth looking into this Dalyan day trip from Fethiye.
Of course, everything can be easily done on your own from Dalyan. It’s slow-paced, and easily walkable, with small buses and boats reaching everything I mentioned.
If you’d like to know more, a full guide of the above can be found in my ‘Best Things to Do in Dalyan‘ guide.
HIKE PART OF THE LYCIAN WAY
The popular Lycian Way trek is one of the best ways to see the natural beauty of the Turkish Riviera. Starting just outside Fethiye and ending just short of Antalya, the marked trail spans over 450 km through former Lycian towns.
This hike is all about history. Once used as a route between the ancient civilization’s important cities and ports, it traverses through some of the region’s iconic destinations. Among those is the nearby town of Farlya, Demre with its famous rock tombs, and Olympos to the east.
While backpacking between towns is gaining traction, it’s not always feasible. The summers are brutal here, making walking a difficult task. If you do decide to hike in the heat, stay hydrated. With that being said, spring and fall are lovely times, making them ideal for longer-distance hikes.
I just did a short part of the track, but definitely plan on exploring more of it in the future. Even if you’re just in Fethiye for a short time, it’s worth heading towards the starting point in Ölüdeniz to capture some of the epic views from the trail.
HOW TO GET AROUND FETHIYE
While things feel spread out in Fethiye, the promenades make reaching most things by foot possible. It’s one of the things I enjoyed most about the city.
I’m happy to say that the other forms of transport around the neighborhoods are almost as easy as setting out on foot. The dolmuş system, while a bit intimidating, runs smoothly and is useful. Most drivers are keen to help you get where you’re going. This is a huge plus when heading to places like Ölüdeniz or Kayaköy.
While some offer credit card tap-in, don’t expect it to work everywhere. For a guarantee, keep small cash on hand, or purchase a transport card at one of the self-serve kiosks. You’ll find these at the bus station along with a few other places. Just make sure to put enough money in for your trip. Prices for routes are displayed on laminated papers within the dolmuş itself.
Taxis are also everywhere in the city, with little call boxes appearing on poles along major streets to call them.
WHERE TO STAY IN FETHIYE
Most people coming to Fethiye will pick between four different areas.
Çalış Beach gets lots of long-term travelers, ranging from digital nomads to British retirees. While there are a few hotels and resorts in the area, most accommodations are small apartments meant for weekly stays. Some good options are the Ten Apart Hotel and Stella Classic Apartments.
Between Şehit Fethi Bey Park and the old town, it’s mostly apartments and AirBNB’s. The location is great though, with all the main sights within walking distance. You’ll find a quieter scene here, with large supermarkets nearby and neighborhoods filled with locals.
The old town and marina are also filled with great accommodations. If you stay here, you’ll be right in the heart of things. For nice suites with a view, there’s Ansira Fethiye, and for ultra-luxury the Yacht Classic Hotel.
Ölüdeniz is also a popular spot to stay, especially if you want that typical Mediterranean resort feel. The prices are on the higher end but offer a walkable distance to the beach. If you want the full treatment The Pearl Ölüdeniz and Jade Residence are great options. Alternatively, you can stay in Kayaköy to be closer to the historic ghost town.
For more lodging options in Fethiye check here.
