It’s hard not to love Filandia!
Enchanting homes are around every corner, coffee farms dot the surrounding countryside, and a relaxed atmosphere hangs over the town like the morning fog it’s accustomed to. It also makes an amazing stopping point on your travels, as it’s smack between two popular cities on most Colombia itineraries; Cali and Medellín.
And, while many have heard of the neighboring town of Salento, the same can’t be said of Filandia. However, it’s equally beautiful and a great alternative if you have to choose between the two.
My visit, not so coincidentally, was right after my stay in Salento. I wanted to extend my trip to the area and the brightly-colored town offered even more laid-back vibes than its counterpart, which was exactly what I wanted after some hiking in the Cocora Valley. I’m happy with my choice too because, in my opinion, it’s a must-visit town.
Here are some of my favorite things to do in Filandia, with a few tips on how to get around and where to stay. I also share some of the town’s wonderful restaurants, what viewpoints are worth visiting, and a look at the growing coffee scene.
This is my guide to Filandia, Colombia.
Wander The Colorful Streets
As a town no more than a few blocks in each direction, the best way to explore Filandia is simply by slowly strolling its streets. The roads here are picturesque, with colonial-era buildings decked out in eye-catching colorful paints.
The most exemplary of those streets is Calle del Tiempo Detenido (Calle 7), which leads past the main square towards the northern edge of town. You’ll find a number of handicraft shops, adorable artisanal stores, and inviting cafes and restaurants lining the sidewalks.
When you reach its end you’ll come to the scenic Mirador Del Tiempo Detenido, where panoramic views of the encompassing landscape await.
A few steps away stands Mirador Encanto, a photo park that, to be honest, has very little to do with the movie of the same name. There’s an entry price of 10,000 COP, and while you get a nice view, it feels like a bit of a tourist trap. I only mention it, because if you’re traveling with family, I think kids would enjoy some of the structures on the observation deck.
While this is the most lively part of Filandia, it’s still worth wandering through other parts. There are a few parks to relax in and plenty more spots to catch gorgeous views. You can find some unique souvenirs in some of the small malls as well. If you’re in the center, it’s worth stopping at Giraldo’s Plaza, a nice shopping center that has crafts and some excellent food stands.
Mirador de Filandia
While some of the miradors I mentioned previously have great lookout points, the most iconic spot for views in Filandia is Mirador Colina Iluminada (Illuminated Hill Viewpoint).
The huge wooden structure, reminiscent of an old school water tower, is perched on a hilltop on the outskirts of town. It offers 360-degree panoramas of the hilly terrain and Filandia’s “skyline.”
You’ll have a short 15-minute walk from the center down the Armenia – Pereira road to get there. Once you arrive you can enjoy a cup of coffee from one of the cafes inside while you admire the lush green backdrop.
Underneath the observation tower, you’ll find some more peculiar constructions along the pathways. It makes the price of entry a little more bearable knowing you can hang around the park for a couple of hours.
Travel Tip | If you’re staying in Filandia for a few days, I suggest heading up to Mirador Colina Iluminada on the clearest day to make the most of the views.
Entry Price | 12,000 COP (as of 2024).
Grab A Coffee In The Center
Since my trip was mostly about taking it easy, I found one of the best things to do in Filandia was sipping on an espresso in the Bolívar Park. It’s a nice way to feel the town’s energy and taste the local products it’s known for.
The park, which is also the main square is a lovely place, with a chilled-out shady area for sitting at its center, the impressive Iglesia Maria Inmaculada church overlooking it, and classic two-tone facades on the buildings. If you like, you can grab a to-go coffee and sit on one of the benches as you take in the tranquil atmosphere, or choose one of the cafes that line the square.
There are about a dozen or so and they’re in my mind the best place to enjoy a “Cup of Joe.” While some of the other roasteries around town offer more flavorful coffees, the ambiance doesn’t match that of the plaza. It’s just a great way to watch the comings and goings of small-town Colombia.
Some cafes that aren’t in the main square to check out:
MOCAFE | They have outstanding coffee and really nice cakes to enjoy with them. If you enjoy a good cappuccino or chai latte it’s a place worth stopping by.
Postres Meraki y Café Filandia | The coffee is decent, maybe even great, but the real star here is the mouthwatering homemade desserts.
CoffeecolBean Roastery | An amazing coffee spot with extremely knowledgeable staff. If you’re looking to do a deeper dive into various brews and filters they are the place to go.
Helena Adentro Restaurant And Other Bites
Next to Mirador Del Tiempo Detenido you’ll find one of the most popular places to eat in the whole region – Helena Adentro Restaurant or “La Casa Rosada.”
It’s not just the view that made this place famous, but also the super tasty food they serve. They swerve away from the traditional and instead lean into a more modern approach to some of Colombia’s favorite dishes.
You can expect most of their plates to have fresh, local ingredients with homemade bread and options for those who are vegan or vegetarian. And, as their menu states, the dishes are best when shared to taste the whole range of diverse flavors they offer. They also do spectacular cocktails (and mocktails) at the bar.
The brilliantly decorated and colorful interior ties the whole place together, and gives it the “Pink House” name.
Tip | The Helena Adentro Restaurant can get extremely busy, especially on the weekend, so making a reservation is recommended. This is doubly true if you want a seat with a view of the surrounding hills. With that being said, we were a group of three on a Sunday and didn’t have an issue finding a table for lunch.
While the Helena Adentro Restaurant gets most of the hype in Filandia, there are several more fantastic spots to enjoy a meal. Here are some worth trying:
Restaurante José Fernando | The atmosphere here is captivating, as is the gorgeous building it’s located inside. The staff is lovely, the food is decent, and there’s live music on the weekends.
Restaurante Cocina de la Loca Gastro Bar café | Super tasty food and a wonderful and knowledgeable chef make for a great dining experience. Most of the dishes are a modern take on cherished Colombian recipes.
Ornello Cono Pizzas | A beloved establishment and the go-to spot for pizza in Filandia. It’s located in Giraldo’s Plaza and you can expect fresh ingredients and super friendly service.
Bakuru | If you’re looking for a taste of the Pacific, this is the spot to head to. Their dishes are a luxurious take on traditional coastal Colombian fare and the presentation shows. What’s worth trying here? Just about everything. But, the favorites include the ceviche, chorizo, salmon, and shrimp dishes.
Restaurante Horeb | Simple Colombian meals at a decent price. The portions are huge and the menú del día is a superb deal.
Day Trip To Salento
Odds are you’ll find yourself in Salento at some point on your travels to “Colombia’s Coffee Triangle.” After all, it’s the gateway to the Cocora Valley and the easiest way to get there by public transportation.
However, a simple changeover doesn’t do it justice. Ideally, you’ll have a few extra days to hang out in Salento, but if you’re not planning an overnight stay in Filandia’s “twin town,” then you should think about visiting on a separate day trip.
There is plenty to do and see from sun up to sun down, including gorgeous viewpoints, lovely coffee fincas, and amazing restaurants.
Here are some things to do on a day trip to Salento:
- Hang out in the vibrant Plaza de Bolívar Salento and admire the colorful artisan shops, towering palm trees, and imposing Our Lady of Carmen Parish.
- Wander down Calle Real and stop in some of the charming handicraft shops. Afterward, you can grab a tasty meal at one of the many restaurants that line the street. If you’re vegetarian, Coco Bowl is a lovely breakfast spot and Serendipia Encuentro is an absolutely fantastic spot for lunch or dinner.
- Head up to Mirador Alto de la Cruz and Mirador Salento for some breathtaking views of the lush green landscape and colonial area homes below.
- Tour one of the many fincas along the ‘Ruta Cafecito’ on the Salento – Palestina road. You can learn about the full process of how coffee is made on a farm.
Getting To Salento | Willy Jeeps leave the main plaza in Filandia often and cost 8,000 COP (as of 2024). It’s worth checking with the ticket booth to see if they do a cheaper roundtrip price. The ride takes anywhere from half an hour to 45 minutes each way.
For a more in-depth look at Salento, you can check out my ‘Guide to Salento’ article.
Visit The Cocora Valley
No trip to Filandia, and the coffee region for that matter, is complete without a visit to the Cocora Valley. For most, this will be an essential stop on any Colombia itinerary, and rightfully so. Standing under the towering Quindio wax palms – the largest palm tree in the world – is truly a sight to behold.
Most trips here will involve hiking through the picturesque valley and the jungle surrounding it. The short hiking route is worth the walk and is one of my absolute favorite things to do in the country.
COCORA VALLEY HIKE OVERVIEW
Cocora Valley Trail Highlights | Quindio Wax Palm Valley, Manos de Cocora Mirador (Hands of Cocora Viewpoint), Acaime Reserva de Colibries (Hummingbird Sanctuary), cloud forest, Finca La Montaña, Cascada Bosque de Nuebla (Nuebla Forest Waterfall)
What To Bring | Trail shoes, hat, rain jacket, sunscreen, water, snacks
Costs (as of 2024) | 26,000 COP ( 20,000 COP main entrance fee + 6,000 COP checkpoint fee), an extra 20,000 COP if you go to the hummingbird sanctuary
Getting There | Willy Jeeps leave from Salento’s main square every hour or so and cost 5,000 (as of 2024) COP one-way or 9,000 COP (as of 2024).
The Cocora Valley is a bucket-list-worthy destination, and somewhere best appreciated by those looking for a little outdoor adventure. It’s a wildly popular destination, especially for locals on the weekends, so if you can plan around that you’ll have a shot at being there with limited crowds.
If heading to Cocora Valley on your own sounds a bit daunting you can always book a tour in advance. There are a few options that have Filandia as a pick-up point. A guided Cocora Valley hiking tour is a great way to see nature and learn about flora and fauna, while a horseback ride through the valley and countryside is something a little more unique.
Other Hiking In Filandia | Just outside of Filandia there’s a small nature park known as the Barbas Bremen Reserve. It’s possible to take guided treks that aim to see native Howler monkeys.
For more details about hiking and exploring the area near the valley, you can check out my Salento article that I linked in the above section.
Get Your Coffee On By Touring A Finca
If you’re looking to jump straight into the coffee culture in Filandia, the best way is by touring a finca aka a coffee farm. It’s the ideal way to learn the process of making coffee from seed to cup.
Most people do tours in the neighboring town of Salento, which has dozens of ranches along the Salento-Palestina road. However, there are plenty of options in the surrounding hills of Filandia which offer an intimate experience and a chance to stay local. The problem is they can be difficult to find if you try to go on your own and are often pricier than the more visited ones in Salento.
Your best bet is to ask your hotel or hostel which farms they recommend, so you can set something up in advance. Three of the more popular ones in the area are the Recua Cafe Tour, Finca Buenos Aires, and Coffee Tour La Palma (which has an office in town).
Pre-Booked Tour Options | If you’re looking to do a coffee farm tour in the nearby Salento and want to book beforehand, you’ll have a few options that do pick-ups in Filandia. This coffee tour here is a great option as is this one that’s a bit more customizable and provides a meal.
HOW TO GET AROUND FILANDIA
Filandia is a compact, easy-to-walk town, with most of the notable sights within 15 minutes. For trips to Salento (and Cocora Valley), you can catch one of the brightly colored willy Jeeps at Bolívar Park.
Surprisingly enough, larger buses head to Pereira directly from Filandia. They leave from close to the main square on the Armenia-Pereira road (maps) throughout the day. When I was there, the price of a one-way ticket was 8,900 COP (as of 2024).
If you’re carrying on to Medellin from Pereira, you’ll have to purchase another bus ticket for about 60,000 COP at the Pereira Station.
WHERE TO STAY IN FILANDIA
If you have the time, I highly recommend staying a night in Filandia. Despite being a common day trip from Salento, it’s worth spending the extra time in the slow-paced, super colorful town. While there are accommodation options in the hillsides, the vast majority of hotels, hostels, and family-run guesthouses are in the few blocks that make up the center. Here are some places worth staying:
- Bidea Backpackers Hostel | A budget-friendly hostel with several different room types. There are a ton of different areas to relax and socialize and the staff are friendly. I stayed here with my partner and a friend for a night and could easily see myself coming back.
- Three House Hostel | Another well-loved and clean hostel option.
- La Puesta Del Sol | A small family-run hotel with great owners. The property is very beautiful and the views are spectacular.
- Ecohotel Monte Tierra Habitaciones y Glamping | A gorgeous, modern property just outside the town. It falls on the more luxurious side of things but offers glamping and a peaceful countryside escape.
For more options check here.
