In the heart of the menacing sounding Accursed Mountains, Theth Waterfall appears between a high cliff side and dense forest. It’s one of the main features in Albania’s breathtaking Thethi National Park and a favored spot among the many trekkers that come through the region.
Originating from the snow capped peaks of the surrounding mountains, the icy waters are a perfect place to beat the summer heat. If you find yourself hanging around Theth for a couple days, you’ll find the waterfall too tempting not to visit!
A DAY HIKE TO THETH WATERFALL
Most of you will come to Theth for the rigorous Theth – Valbona trail, which makes Grunas Waterfall the perfect warm up (or cool down) for the famed hike. With a roundtrip time of about 2 hours, it’s an easy but rewarding trip.
I walked to Theth from Valbona, so my journey to Theth Waterfall was the day after the longer hike. It was a perfect place to relax in the surrounding nature and refresh my achy legs.
The first half of the hike to the falls will take you along the crystal clear waters of the Llumi i Thethit. If it’s been raining recently the stream looks more like a fierce river. The rocky terrain and forested mountain sides around here are a staple of the impressive Albanian Alps.
You’ll eventually head inland and upward towards Theth Waterfall. A couple places that stand out along the way are a small modern footbridge with red hand rails and a nice cafe (Kunora e Grunasit) with awesome views.
When you finally reach the endpoint, you’ll find the 25 meter high waterfall flowing directly from a crevice in a limestone wall. When the sun hits it right, a picturesque rainbow forms above the knee high pool at its base. The chilly waters are an ideal spot to dip your feet in. However, the rocks are extremely slippery from years of waterflow, so watch your step.
Fun Fact: There’s also free internet at Grunas waterfall. If for some reason you need to get online, you’ll get some of the cleanest WiFi signals in all of Theth here.
The cool mist from the falls is a perfect treat after the uphill walk.
How to get there?
From the town center head south along Rruga Fushe until it branches off into dirt trails. Follow the trail closest to the river until you reach a small walking bridge. When you cross here, you know you’re heading in the right direction.
The path eventually heads inland for the waterfall. Keep an eye out for markings on rocks that line the track. The two main markings are for Theth Waterfall and the Blue Eye. The Blue Eye is quite a bit longer (and in a different direction), so make sure to follow the right markings. After a short but steep walk upward, you’ll reach your final destination.
There are actually two paths that lead to the landmark, one on each side of the waterfall. If you’re so inclined, take the opposite one back down.
Things are not marked very well up in Theth, so if you’re ever in doubt ask your guesthouse owner for directions. There’s also a high chance that others are heading to the same location you are, so feel free to tag along with other hikers. I also suggest downloading an offline map like Maps.Me before setting off.
SOME OTHER THINGS TO SEE AROUND THETH
There are a ton of things to do and see in Theth besides the waterfall. Another popular alternative/addition to the Grunas hike is the dazzling Theth Blue Eye. Albania is known for having two notable eyes, this one in the north, and the more popular Blue Eye in the south. They are both well worth the visit and aptly named after their vibrant blue pools.
Another site worth visiting is the charming Theth Church (Kisha e Thetit). When the sun hits the surrounding countryside just right, the property has a magical feel to it. You’ll almost always find someone taking a picture of the little church.
When you’ve run out of things to do, there’s always more trails to explore. It feels like there’s a never ending amount of day hikes between Theth and Valbona.
If you’re an adventure seeker traveling through Albania, make sure to head to the Accursed Mountains for its rugged beauty. The walk to Theth Waterfall will only emphasize the alluring nature in the north of the country.
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