Surrounded by clear blue waters, the Porto Palermo Castle stands on a tiny fortified island in the Bay of Porto Palermo. It’s located along the picturesque Albanian coastline and known for its well preserved triangular shape.
In recent years the fortress has grown in popularity, which can be attributed to its proximity to the bustling beach town of Himara and the growing tourism in Albania. There’s also the fact that in 2014 Porto Palermo topped a Huffpost article for undiscovered European destinations. I’m sure that didn’t hurt the castle’s expanding notoriety. But despite this, the crowds are still limited. On my visit, there were only a handful of people walking around the complex.
A LITTLE HISTORY OF PORTO PALERMO
The castle also goes by the name of Ali Pasha Fortress, after the famous Ali Pasha of Tepelena. It’s current fortification was built in the 19th century, but it’s said that a previous structure must have been here long before. The location makes little sense for an 1800’s castle due to its proximity to the adjacent hills. There is also the triangle design which is more reminiscent of the Venetian building style of years prior.
I find the debatable history of the Porto Palermo Castle adds to its intrigue. What they do know is it was used as a prison during and after WWII. You can visit the former cells, which are on the ground floor of the fortress. Make sure to have a flashlight (or a phone with one), they are pitch black with a rough surface.
Besides the creepy feeling of jail, you’ll have the chance to freely stroll through the grounds. There are several rooms that are labeled and a sturdy navigable roof. As you walk the walls, you’ll see several Greek islands off in the distance. Tickets are bought at the entrance of the castle for 300 Lek.
I suggest making friends with the man you purchase the tickets from. If you’re lucky (and it’s not too busy) he’ll give you a bit of history about Ali Pasha. It was interesting to hear about the pasha’s interesting past and connection with the city of Ioannina.
OUTSIDE OF THE CASTLE
After my trip, the Porto Palermo Castle immediately shot up my list of favorite castles in Albania. While a lot of this had to do with the fortress, it’s also just a great place to hang out for the day. The island is connected to the mainland by a strip of land that holds a surprisingly welcoming beach. You can bring a towel, a nice snorkel mask, and cool off from the blistering sun.
There is a small beach you can swim at in Porto Palermo.
TAKE A CLOSER LOOK AT THE SUBMARINE BUNKER
While you’re roaming around the castle’s rooftop, you’ll notice a rundown naval base and submarine station to the north. The magnificent waters of the bay and dark tunnel seem like it could be a villain’s lair in an action film.
The property is currently owned by the Albanian navy and is private, so I suggest just watching the area from afar. However, there’s a viewpoint about 15 minutes from Porto Palermo’s island that offers a closer look. You’ll get good visibility of the soviet era bunker from here. There’s also a high chance you’ll spot some wandering goats grazing between the buildings.
Views of the submarine bunker in the Bay of Palermo.
How to get there?
There are a number of ways to get to the Porto Palermo Castle, the easiest being by car or bus.
Car – If you’re driving, just head south along the coastal highway. The castle will be on your right and the drive takes between 5 and 10 minutes.
Bus – Catching a bus is fairly simple, however they only run twice a day. You’ll find them outside of Big Market with signs in the direction of Borsh and Saranda. They leave daily at 11:30 and 14:00 and cost 100 Lek. The last bus back to Himara leaves at 14:00, so if you don’t want to get stuck walking, make sure to take the early bus there.
Walking – Porto Palermo is about 8 km away from Himara, so if you walk make sure to wear some athletic shoes. You’ll head along the same road that the cars drive, and it will take between about 1.5 hours. The trek is slightly difficult, and long, but well worth it for the spectacular views.
Bike – If you’re looking for a little more adventure (with lots of hills) you can rent mountain bikes out from Himara Hostel. I personally took a bus there and walked back, so I’m not sure about the prices.
Porto Palermo was one of my favorite places on the Albanian Riviera. If you’re looking for a nice escape from Himara, I suggest checking out the splendid castle!
