The charming, uniquely colorful town of Salento is an essential stop for any coffee lover visiting Colombia. And, as the gateway to the epic Cocora Valley, it’s a must-visit for those wanting to catch a glimpse of the world’s tallest palm trees.
This was one of my first stops in Colombia and I was excited to experience some beautiful nature and hop between the local coffee estates. It was also about time I escaped the madness of Medellín to see the lush green valleys and tree-dotted mountains in the nearby countryside.
When I look back at my list of favorite South American destinations, Salento immediately comes to mind. Some day in the future I’ll come back to explore some more of the surrounding area and, once again, embrace the laidback atmosphere of the sleepy town.
In the meantime here is a short guide to Salento – with tips on hiking in the Cocora Valley – plus some of my favorite restaurants and cafes. I also include some top spots to visit around town, hotel and hostel suggestions, and a list of coffee farms to tour.
Here are 9 wonderful things to do in Salento, Colombia.
Wander the Colorful Streets
Salento’s charm really comes out as you wander its colorful streets and take in the colonial-era architecture. Every building seems to add to the town’s magical feel, highlighted by dazzling front doors and brightly painted trim.
This is especially on display at Plaza de Bolivar Salento, the town’s lively main square. As a rule of thumb, I always like to wander around the place I’m visiting to get a sense of where things are. And, this is a good starting point.
At the park’s center are high-rising palm trees, bordered by artisan shops, cute cafes, and the towering Our Lady of Carmen Parish. Most people will eventually be drawn to Calle Real after this. The lavish street is where most of your souvenir shopping will be done and also has some of the best restaurants in town. When you reach the end of the road you can head up the hill for some incredible views.
While most of the town’s happenings revolve around this area, it’s worth roaming down some of the other streets. Some cool little shops are around, as well as great cafes and fresh produce markets.
Visit The Cocora Valley
A trip to the Valle de Cocora or Cocora Valley routinely comes up as one of the best things to do in Salento, if not the whole of Colombia. Home to the world’s tallest palm tree – the Quindio wax palm – the picture-perfect green valley is easily visited as a day trip from the nearby coffee town.
With some reaching up to 60 meters, these towering trees create a magical setting, sprouting up from the grassy hills that surround the Quindio River. Above them, often enveloped in clouds, you’ll notice the looming figure of Morrogacho Mountain.
The most popular thing to do at Cocora Valley is to trek along a ring-shaped trail through the surrounding nature. This is what I did and it’s also what I’d recommend for those that want the full experience. The hike itself isn’t very difficult, but if you’re not up for a multi-hour walk, you’ll have a few more options.
The first is to explore the neatly maintained park by the entrance. Small pathways lead up to unique structures like the Manos de Cocora Mirador (Hands of Cocora Viewpoint), which are there for the sole purpose of making a special picture. You’ll also find some activities for children if you are traveling as a family. The second is to hire a horse and do a guided tour of the encompassing countryside.
Entrance Fees | There are two checkpoints along the Cocora Valley Trail, each with a separate entry fee. If you do the loop clockwise, you’ll pay a fee of 20,000 COP (as of 2024) to start and then another 6,000 COP (as of 2024) about halfway through. It’ll be the opposite if you decide to go counterclockwise.
Getting to Cocora Valley | Willy jeeps every hour or so from early morning at the main square. You’ll pay at the small kiosk behind the colorful cars and then drivers will usher you into a jeep when they’re ready to leave. It costs 5,000 COP for a one-way ticket and 9,000 COP roundtrip. Prices are from early 2024.
Tour Options | If you’re looking to experience Cocora Valley with a guide or don’t want to deal with the hassle of getting there yourself, you can do a pre-booked tour. There are some unique options leaving from Salento that include horse riding or a combination hiking and coffee farm tour.
Here are some highly-regarded tours worth looking into:
Hiking In The Cocora Valley
The hike on the Cocora Valley Trail was one of the coolest day treks I’ve ever done. Beautiful scenery is around every corner and the native Quindio wax palms are a rare, magnificent sight.
While I wouldn’t call it an easy walk, it’s not very demanding, with only a few steep uphill points, pleasant weather (for hiking), and plenty of resting spots along the way. With that being said, watch out for slippery spots, as this region is fond of rain and fog.
Before you start, you’ll need to decide if you’re going to walk clockwise or counterclockwise on the trail. Whichever you choose, you’ll see the same things along the way, but starting clockwise means you’ll go through the wax palm valley first.
The loop itself is around 12 km long and usually takes 5 or 6 hours with the expected photo breaks and snack time.
Here is what you should expect to see on the hike (going clockwise):
- The start of the hike will take you through a lush valley filled with epic native palm trees. There are miradors all along the path for a few kilometers, some offering up-close views.
- You’ll eventually reach the second checkpoint, followed by Finca La Montaña, and the cooler climate of a cloud forest.
- As you head through the forest, signs for the Acaime Reserva de Colibries (Hummingbird Sanctuary) will come up. If you want to take a detour to see the little birds it’s an extra few kilometers and 20,000 COP for entry into the reserve. My travel buddies and I decided to skip this part as we saw hummingbirds on a few other occasions during our travels.
- The next test is a series of shabby bridges that swing over a briskly moving river below. They give off real adventure vibes and feel like they could be part of an Indian Jones movie scene. Towards the end of the forest, you’ll have a chance to deviate slightly in order to sneak a peak at Cascada Bosque de Nuebla (Nuebla Forest Waterfall).
- Your last bit of walking will be through farmland, and finally, another bridge that brings you to the exit gates.
What to Bring | It’s recommended to bring the necessary hiking gear like trail shoes, a rain jacket, a hat, and some sunscreen. I also suggest bringing plenty of water and a picnic or some snacks for the road.
Other hiking options near Salento | There’s a multi-day trek starting from Cocora Valley that goes all the way to Pereira. This is not for the faint of heart, as you’ll need enough food for the trip and there will be little to no other hikers in the area. However, there are a few fincas on the route that offer accommodation or a place to pitch your tent.
You can also hike to the top of Morrogacho Mountain while you’re inside the Cocora Valley. It’s through private property, so if they’re home, you’ll have to pay an extra 20,000 COP. Recently there have been several dog attacks on this route. If you’re adamant about going, be aware of this risk and be careful.
Alternatively, you could do a hiking trip with a guided tour that revolves around bird watching in the forests near Salento.
Eat Some Tasty Local Bites
I can honestly say I didn’t have a bad meal in Salento, which is quite rare in a place that sees the amount of visitors it does. It seemed like every restaurant was trying to put out a good product, which was both refreshing and good for my tummy.
You’ll find everything from trendy new eateries to authentic Colombian fare, plus plenty of options for those with diet restrictions. Our little travel group included a vegan friend, so for those of you who are vegan or vegetarian, I can comfortably say you have choices!
Here are some of my top restaurant recommendations:
Coco Bowl | Situated at the end of Calle Real, this vegan breakfast spot was my go-to for a morning meal. They have wonderful fruit smoothies, healthy bowls, and nice peanut butter toast.
Serendipia Encuentro | I enjoyed the atmosphere and beautiful interior of this restaurant as much as the food. They also have a nice mix of traditional Colombian and more European-style veggie dishes.
The Vegetarian Butcher | A smaller restaurant with lots of international vegetarian options. The owner was really friendly here and the prices were on the cheaper side.
Arepas Manaos | It’s a fast-food joint located in a sort of indoor street food market. They make super tasty arepas (Colombian flatbread stuffed with filling) and have a nice assortment of choices.
Rural Cocina Artesanal | If you’re looking for a decent burger, this family-run spot is your best bet in Salento.
Cumana Bistro Food | Incredible restaurant serving a variety of classic Venezuelan dishes for lunch and dinner. They have nice drinks and a few great vegetarian options as well.
Morning Coffee Spots
Salento is in the heart of Colombia’s coffee region, so don’t be surprised by the smell of a fresh brew hanging in the air on the quiet, foggy mornings. While it’s common knowledge that the best beans are often sent overseas, I’m pretty confident a few places keep some of those for the local customers.
With the town being such a relaxing place to hang around, I often found myself roaming into random cafes on a whim.
One of my favorites was Kiwi Kafe (maps). It’s a smaller place that opens early and has wonderful coffee. They also have almond milk for those who are lactose intolerant and sweet waffles if you’re looking for a bite to eat.
Down the street, you’ll find another great choice in Grow Ganja (maps), which has decent coffee and excellent croissants. Despite some mixed reviews, Cafe Jesus Martin (maps) is still a nice cafe for those wanting a takeaway cup.
For a wonderful atmosphere and vintage look head to La Casa Café Galería (maps) on the opposite side of town. They do some unique pours, including one from the iconic hourglass-shaped Chemex Coffeemaker. Their hot chocolate with cheese is a tasty alternative for those wanting to go caffeine-free.
If you’re chasing sweets with your coffee, you can’t go wrong with PanArte Cafe (maps) either. It’s a simple place with superb cakes and amazing espressos.
Check Out The Views
As a town set amongst a lush green landscape, Salento offers gorgeous views of the surrounding countryside. Two spots in particular, Mirador Alto de la Cruz and Mirador de Salento, stand out as the must-visit viewpoints when you first arrive.
Mirador Alto de la Cruz (High of the Cross Viewpoint) is up a steep staircase at the end of Carrera 6 (Calle Real). From here you’ll have a great vantage point of the old town, with its burnt orange rooftops appearing amidst rolling tree-dotted hills.
A short walk along a footpath will bring you to Mirador de Salento (Salento Viewpoint). Here you’ll find colorful town letters and an observation deck with a bird’s eye view of the nearby Quindio River. Situated at the end of Carrera 4, the Mirador also has a couple of bars and cafes close to it that share similar iconic views.
You’ll also find scenic locations at the end of most streets, so keep your eyes peeled when you’re wandering around town. Mirador del Quinidio Salento by the main square is one of these.
Take A Tour Of A Coffee Finca
Touring a coffee ranch or a finca as it’s called in Colombia is an essential part of any Salento itinerary. Coffee is king here and there’s no better way to experience it than right at its source.
Guided tours usually last for a few hours and take you through the steps of production from seed to bean. And, of course, you get to try a hot “cup of Joe” at the end. They can be found just about everywhere in town, but the majority of fincas on the ‘Ruta Cafecito’ can be found on the Salento – Palestina Road.
The dirt road leads from the outskirts of the town to the heart of the surrounding coffee hills. If you’re up for a nice walk, I suggest heading along this road by foot to the farm of your choice and taking a private tour with one of the property’s guides. Alternatively, you can hop on one of the jeeps heading this way from the main square.
Coffee Farms on the Salento – Palestina Road
Finca Las Acacias
Finca El Ocaso
Finca de Don Elias
Finca La Arzacia
Coffee Farm El Recuerdo
Coffee Luger
La Abundancia
Finca Buenos Aires
My pick of the bunch ended up being Finca de Don Elias (maps) on recommendation from my hostel owner. He laid out a few options for me and explained that this was a family-run coffee finca that produced quality organic products.
It’s a smaller ranch, with a variety of plants and knowledgeable guides. The tour with a tip included came out to 40,000 COP and included a strong cup of coffee and some hand-picked bananas! At the end, you’re allowed to freely explore the property, which has a waterfall and runs beside a river you can cool off in.
Heading to a finca and joining a tour on your own is easy and tends to be the cheapest option. However, if you have a tight schedule or want to combine a coffee farm with other activities like Cocora Valley or birdwatching then there are plenty of options here with GetYourGuide or here with Viator.
Handicraft Shop On Calle Real
One place in particular stands out as the go-to shopping street in Salento – Calle Real. The aptly named ‘Royal Street’ or Carrera 6 on maps, crosses the length of the town, past Plaza de Bolívar to the steps leading up to Mirador Alto de la Cruz.
Appearing amongst the boutique hotels and trendy restaurants, you’ll find stores specializing in local handicrafts. We’re talking colorful bird feeders, handmade wallets and purses, wooden toys, and fashionable clothing shops. They have just about everything you’d expect from a charming tourist town, plus a little extra.
It’s easy to spend a few hours shopping around, especially in the evening as crowds pick up and the street becomes the life of the town. If you’re looking to avoid the masses I suggest coming in the morning, especially on weekends when locals flock to Salento.
There aren’t any specific shops to mention, it’s better to just wander from store to store to see what might catch your eye. However, don’t skip over the easy-to-miss Pasaje Real, a small offshoot from the main road.
If you’re looking for some cool Colombian souvenirs, you’d be hard-pressed not to find something here. That being said if you’re living from a backpack or just don’t have the space in your luggage, it’s still worth coming to Calle Real for the people (and dog-watching).
Day Trip To Filandia
Filandia is often seen as the ‘twin town’ of Salento, both places sharing similar qualities and those typical relaxing Colombian vibes. White buildings with colorful, eye-popping doors and window frames line the street, while fincas dot the lush surrounding landscape.
Coffee remains one of the highlights, and while the town is less touristy than Salento, you’ll still find a steady stream of local tourism. I found the slightly more laid-back atmosphere worthy of a multiday visit, but not everyone’s itinerary will allow for that.
But, don’t worry! It’s easy enough to see the main highlights in a day, which makes Filandia a perfect day trip option from Salento. Here are some things worth checking out on a visit to the town:
- Helena Adentro Restaurant, the most popular eatery in the whole region, resides in Filandia and is a must-try. It’s a modern restaurant with mouth-watering bites and superbly made cocktails. The menu has unique takes on traditional Colombian dishes in a setting with tons of artistic flare. Making a reservation is recommended, especially if you want a seat with stunning views, but our small group managed with a walk-in.
- Next door to Helena Adentro is Mirador Colina Iluminada, a small viewpoint with panoramic sights of the rolling green hills beyond Filandia.
- Next door to Helena Adentro is Mirador Colina Iluminada, a small viewpoint with panoramic sights of the rolling green hills beyond Filandia.
- Another spot worth visiting for the scenic views is Mirador Del Tiempo Detenido. A short walk outside of town, the large wooden observation deck offers the best vantage point in town. Entrance to the top of the structure costs 12,000 COP for anyone between the ages of 6 and 60. The price is 6,000 COP for everyone else.
- It’s worth wandering the streets to see the brightly painted homes, find some more great miradors, pop into the handicraft shops, and stroll around Parque Bolívar.
Getting to Filandia | A one-way willy ride from Salento to Filandia costs 8,000 COP and takes between 30 and 40 minutes.
Check out my ‘Short Guide to Filandia’ article for a more detailed look at the town.
GETTING AROUND SALENTO
Just about everywhere in Salento can be reached by foot, which includes most of the fincas along the coffee route. For most other things around the countryside, you can hire a willy to get around.
As mentioned previously, jeep rides to Filandia and Cocora Valley leave from Plaza de Bolívar. All the longer-distance buses to/from places like Pereira or Medellin will be out of Terminal Buses Salento (maps).
WHERE TO STAY IN SALENTO
Salento is a small, backpacker-friendly town that picks up on the weekends as Colombians file in for a visit. In the town, you’ll have your choice between boutique hotels, colorful guesthouses, and hostels. Outside of town, you can stay in more relaxing lodgings in coffee country. Here are some places worth looking at:
- Casa La Eliana | A budget-friendly hostel with dorms and private rooms. My partner and I stayed here for a few days and really enjoyed it. The owner is super knowledgeable and will share all his knowledge of the area with you.
- IntiLuna Hostel | A clean, vibrant “hostel” with private rooms. The building has the classic Salento house look with eye-popping colors.
- Terrazas de Salento | A beautiful hotel with amazing staff and a great location. It’s on the pricier side for Salento but well-loved regardless.
- Hotel Kawa Mountain Retreat | A luxury retreat in the mountains outside Salento. The views are breathtaking and the nature is spectacular.
For more options check here.
