Ah, the infamous Albanian xhiro.
Before arriving in this wonderful country, I kept reading articles mentioning this word. Have a xhiro at sunset, go for a nice xhiro, they said.
I thought it was some kind of exotic food, or maybe some grand romantic gesture.
But, no.
It’s a word that simply translates to “walk” in the English language. While it can be both romantic at times, and if done in the right place, exotic…it really is just that – a walk.
The Albanians have perfected this long cherished form of activity. Large groups of people join in daily to trek along their town/city’s most enticing street. They gather to socialize, enjoy each other’s company, and get a taste of the outdoors when the heat of the sun has been tamed.
It’s a time to appreciate the individuals around you and to reflect on your day.
Call me crazy, but I actually enjoy a great mind clearing walk. So, I decided to join in whenever I had the chance. Here is what I learned during my quest for a great evening stroll aka xhiro.
THERE’S NOTHING BETTER THAN A LONG WALK ON THE BEACH
Alright, that’s a bit of a joke.
I don’t want to sound like some Tinder jagoff or a 90’s sitcom cliche. But, this article is all about evening walks, and there is a finite amount of places you can actually partake in the activity. The main street is normally the go to, however the beach is sometimes too tempting to pass up. This was especially noticeable in some of the larger resort towns. During the high season, thousands flock towards the coast. As the sun goes down, the walkways get crowded, really crowded, and the best place to enjoy xhiro becomes the sandy beaches.
Two places immediately come to mind – Durres and Vlora.
Let me start by saying, I’m not the biggest fan of Durres. It’s a coastal city that doesn’t have much going for it besides an ancient Roman amphitheater and congested beaches. However, I found myself constantly looking forward to sunset.
Why, you ask?
The beach is perfect for an evening wander aka xhiro!
Boatloads of individuals head along the coast to watch the dark outline of fishing ships and cargo vessels against the golden sky. Popcorn vendors stand almost at the water’s edge, tempting you with the scent of toasted kernels. Amusement park rides light up along the pier, and families gather to celebrate the end of a successful day at the beach.
While Durres sees the majority of its visitors migrating from Tirana for the weekend, Vlora caters to the foreigners. Ferries come directly from Italy and the restaurants and clothing shops reflect that. Besides a few hidden gems on the edge of the city, Vlora just doesn’t do it for me either.
You might be thinking “what are you doing talking about such mundane places then?”
My reasoning – something as simple as a walk on the beach can change your outlook on a place. I might not have the fondest memories of the cities, but those afternoons were some of my favorite moments in Albania.
WHEN IN DOUBT, FOLLOW THE CROWD
Most of my favorite stories while backpacking have come from not doing what others are. However, I’ve come to realize that when you’re in a foreign place it’s alright to join the masses. It’s the best way to truly experience daily life in a country.
While I was in Berat, it felt like I was only going to see other travelers gawking at the beautiful Ottoman homes. It was my first week in Albania and I was craving knowledge of local affairs. I wanted to figure out what people did for fun, what got them excited, and where they did it. This is where I learned about xhiro. As I was sitting at a cafe along Boulevard Republika, hundreds started drifting by.
They walked up and down the street, having a chat, and taking moments to appreciate the beautiful mountains in the background. I ended up joining in on the experience and I’ve grown to appreciate (occasionally) following the crowds.
YOU FEEL BETTER WHEN YOU'RE ACTIVE
This seems quite obvious, but it’s often taken for granted. I’ve fallen into a general laziness more times than I can count. I’ve gone days lounging in a hammock, reading a book until I finish. Binge watching 5 seasons of a Netflix series over the course of a week. Falling into a routine of beach, bar, sleep, repeat. Okay, I think you get the point!
I can comfortably say that I always feel better when I’m getting a workout in. Xhiro is when I came to the conclusion that yes, a walk can also be a workout. Maybe I’m just getting older or finding excuses to stay away from the gym. But, when I’m traveling I always find it difficult to motivate myself to be active. I imagine there are a few of you out there with the same mindset.
But the simple fact was, xhiro kept me energetic. I felt amazing because of it, and I kept fit enough for all the longer trails I hiked in Albania.
SUNSET IS A SPECIAL TIME OF THE DAY
When I’m back in California, I always forget how enjoyable the sunset is. I’m just so content with lounging on the couch and staring at the television. It’s not for a lack of beauty either, “The Golden State” is known throughout the world for its mesmerizing sunsets.
For some reason, it’s when I’m travelling, I figure these things out. It’s probably because as dusk approaches, the Albanian Riviera (especially Himara and Dhermi) gives me flashbacks of my home state. The technicolor sky, the warmth in the air, and that particular smell of a salty beach.
Himara (left) and Dhermi (right) at sunset.
While walking the waterfronts in these Mediterranean towns, brief moments of clarity washed over me. I thought to myself, sunset is a special time of the day, I should be watching more of these. I can thank the xhiro tradition for this mindset. I’ve probably seen more sunsets on my trip to Albania than I did all of last year. I’d like to believe my life is much more enjoyable because of it.
I guess I rambled on a bit (hopefully coherently). But that matches the spirit of xhiro, it takes as long as it needs to get your thoughts in order. It’s a routine I plan on making a daily habit.
Next time you’re feeling a bit lost, bored, or even lazy, slap on your shoes and see if xhiro can spice up your life!
