On the way to the tiny village of Sno, a collection of giant stone heads emerge in a grassy field beneath high sloping hills. The Stone Heads of Sno are a unique creation of local artist Merab Piranishvili.
Located just outside the popular Georgian backpacking destination of Stepantsminda (also known as Kazbegi), Sno is often overlooked while exploring the region. Visiting the stunning Gergeti Trinity Church and hiking the snow capped mountain ranges is usually the first thing on travelers minds. However, it would be a mistake to skip over the peculiar and extraordinary exhibition.
THE STORY BEHIND THE STONE HEADS
Hand carved from massive slabs of granite the sculptures are reminiscent of ancient times. But, they are more modern than they first appear. In 1984, Merab started chiseling the stone pieces in order to share his work and the faces of prominent Georgian figures with the world.
Some of those people include the poet Shota Rustaveli, journalist Ilya Chavchavadze, and writer Alexandre Kazbegi. He hopes to captivate and fascinate visitors so Sno can see an increase in tourism.
Personally, I think he’s doing a great job!
As you’d expect, the cost of creating these sculptures is both expensive and time consuming. If you want to help fund the artistry, you can leave money in a small wooden box next to the sculptures.
The sculptures are surprisingly detailed for their size.
OTHER THINGS TO DO AROUND SNO
Besides the usual highlights in Stepantsminda, there’s actually a fair amount to do closer to Sno. The road to the village is a small detour from the Georgian Military Highway, which is the popular route that leads to Russia. Every town along this highway has something noteworthy to see. The closest of those is Pansheti and its picturesque mineral pool.
Further up the road from Sno are some gorgeous hikes in Kazbegi National Park, like the Juta-Chaukhi trail. It’s a medium hike that leads past a small lake and up to a jagged mountaintop.
In the village itself, you’ll find the ruins of the small Sno Castle. If you’re looking to kill some time it’s worth checking out. I also suggest wandering around the area near the Stone Heads of Sno. The grazing cows and breathtaking scenery make for a quiet, calming experience.
How to get to the Stone Heads of Sno?
Driving: The drive from Stepantsminda to the sculptures is both quick and easy. Just hop on the E117 (Georgian Military Highway) going south until you reach the left hand turn onto the Sno-Akhaltsikhe-Juta road. The heads are just up the road on the right. It should only take 5-10 minutes to get there.
Taxis will know what you mean if you mention the stone heads, they are often added to half day itineraries of Kazbegi.
Walking: Getting there by foot is the same route as by car. However, the walk will take between 1-2 hours. There’s also an option to take the road to Pansheti across the Terek River. It’s a dirt road with far less traffic that goes by the unique Pansheti Mineral Spring Pool. I walked both routes and prefer the Pansheti way, the views are spectacular and cars aren’t zipping by.
The Stone Heads of Sno are a set of special and distinctly Georgian sculptures in one of the country’s most beautiful places. If you find yourself in Kazbegi, make sure to stop by the imposing heads!
