Lake Ohrid is among the most visited places in North Macedonia, and for good reason. It’s unbelievably beautiful, from the bustling town of Ohrid to the magnificently blue waters of the lake itself.
As one of the oldest and deepest lakes in Europe, it’s hard not to feel the influence the lake has on the surrounding area. With its unique ecosystem, impressive Byzantine churches, and UNESCO status it’s one of the Balkans’ true highlights.
I found everything about the lake to be captivating. But, I guess I’m not the only one. In 2010, NASA named one of Titan’s fearsome lakes after Ohrid. I figure, if it’s special enough to be the inspiration for a lake on Saturn’s largest moon, then it must be pretty darn cool.
My second trip through the Balkans included a sunkissed week in Ohrid town, fighting off the blistering heat and experiencing everything Lake Ohrid and its shorefront villages had to offer.
In this article, I share some top things to do in Ohrid, including unique places to visit around the lake, restaurants to try, and how to get around the area.
Here is my guide to Lake Ohrid, a must-visit destination on every North Macedonia itinerary.
Swim in the lake and see the beautiful beaches
Lake Ohrid is crystal clear and ultra-fresh. Swimming in the cooling waters, with fish gently gliding underneath and a postcard view of Ohrid town in eyesight, is highly invigorating. They must have a filter hidden somewhere in the depths because the lake is impossibly clean. Either that or a full-time team of pool boys to rake out the leaves.
Kidding aside, in the summer months you’ll find yourself jumping in multiple times throughout the day. Whether it’s from a wooden dock, alongside a lakeside restaurant, or at one of the many beaches, there’s always a place to pop into Lake Ohrid.
Stretching along the eastern shore you have beautiful spots to swim all the way down to the Albanian border. In town, there are plenty of designated swimming areas and just north you’ll find options in the Struga area.
Here are the beaches you’ll find along Lake Ohrid’s shoreline:
OHRID BEACHES | In the heart of Ohrid, before the Ohrid Boardwalk is the half-rock, half-concrete Saraiste Beach. Just past that, you’ll find two small beaches with nearby restaurants and wonderful views. The slender Potpesh Beach is the easternmost, offering a small patch of pebble beach accompanied by lounge chairs. If it’s too crowded for your liking, you can hop in the water by the nearby cemented dock.
West of Potpesh Beach is Kaneo Beach, a small rocky area straddled by numerous restaurants. The majority of people entering Lake Ohrid from here do so before or after their meal. Kaneo is just below the ever-popular Church of Saint John the Theologian, allowing you to see the epic church from a different vantage point when swimming.
Around the peninsula from there, through the small forest, you’ll find the rocky Labino Beach. There’s an isolated feel to the beach here, with calm waters and a beautiful viewing point just up the hill. North of there, across the Susica River you’ll find a large stretch of beach. Vasil Stefoski Street runs parallel to it.
BEACHES SOUTH OF OHRID | From the edge of Ohrid down towards Golden Beach there’s a walking promenade. Along it, you’ll discover hotels with sunbeds and lake access. South of Golden Beach is the secluded Gorica Beach and lengthy Nemo Beach. The latter sits at the base of Sveti Stefan, below the monastery, and is lined with restaurants and bars. Further south you’ll discover Metropolis Beach and the rocky shores of Lagadin.
FAR SOUTH BEACHES | From the floating village of Bay of Bones to the border of Albania, popular beaches line the coast. Around the little water top museum tiny “swimming holes” known as the Gradishte beaches line up next to each other. Accompanying them is a campground for those exploring North Macedonia by campervan.
Heading down the P501 highway, you’ll notice stop-offs at the villages of Trpejca and Ljubanista. Overlooked by modern villas and eateries, the Trpejca Beachfront is the pride of the picturesque little town. Head up the hill to the Trpejca Lake Viewpoint for an aerial beach panorama. In Ljubanista you’ll have the opportunity to camp by the water, with grassy grounds lining the wildish beach. Restaurants border the pebble shore and plastic sun chairs can be rented.
Almost touching the lands of Albania, Sveti Naum Beach is the last spot to see in the south of Lake Ohrid. The colorful rock beach splits into two sections by the magnificent Sveti Naum Monastery. One part hides in the shadow of the church grounds, while the other runs alongside a series of springs and a small neatly cared-for park.
STRUGA AREA BEACHES | Struga is another popular area to stay on the North Macedonia side of Lake Ohrid. It’s easily reached by road and is an alternative to the bustling town of Ohrid. There are two main beaches here, the beach next to Central Park and the smaller Women’s Beach. Also considered part of the Struga area, the beach in Kališta is a nice place to cool off. Especially if you take the boat from Ohrid to visit the Monastery of the Nativity of the Blessed Virgin Mary Kališta.
Most of these beaches can be reached by car, bus, or boat. However, during my trip I found the bus system lacking, so I stuck with travel by boat. With that said, the clean waters are a treat almost everywhere in Lake Ohrid, so make sure you don’t skip out on summertime swimming!
Hop On A Boat Cruise
The best way of seeing Lake Ohrid is by simply cruising on its glassy waters. There are tons of wonderful places hiding along the lake’s inlets and edges. Yes, that means there’s more than just beaches and summer houses. An easy way to discover them is by simply taking a boat tour.
Typical cruises head along the east coast towards the Monastery of Saint Naum. Gliding across these tranquil waters is a fantastic way to see Lake Ohrid. Highlights include a glimpse at former Yugoslavian president Tito’s estate Vila Biljana, a stop at the Bay of Bones, a view of the serene Holy Mother of God Zahumska Church, and finally a few hours at the monastery.
This was the tour I ended up doing and it was nice to hear the guide speak about the history of some of these places.
Booking a tour can be arranged through the many agencies along the Ohrid port. You’ll find several options, including smaller private group pontoon boats with a curated route or “the big boat” that leaves from the pier at specific times. For those of you traveling solo, this is probably the best option.
These basic cruises are very simple to get, many will have a set price and follow along the classic Eastern circuit. When I was last in Ohrid, the price for the large shared boat was 10 euros per person.
For alternative tours on Lake Ohrid, you can have a look at some of these recommended options:
Old Town Panoramic Boat Cruise | A short trip that focuses on the churches and coast in Ohrid Old Town. You’ll get a postcard view of most of the places you’ll visit from land, including some fascinating insight from a guide.
Ohrid Wine Tasting Boat Cruise | A simple cruise along the Ohrid coastline with local wine and cheeses included.
Ohrid Lake Sunset Cruise | A relaxing trip with brilliant sunset views on the lake during the waning hours of the day.
Visit The Bay Of Bones
Peculiar-looking and sinister-sounding, the Bay of Bones isn’t quite as scary as you’d think. The reconstructed stilt homes form an open-air museum that is less about mystery and more about history. However, there’s no doubt the replicated settlement gives off some serious Pirates of the Caribbean vibes.
I quickly became enamored with the floating village, wandering beneath the thatched roofs and peaking inside the “prehistoric” homes. The site houses more than a dozen buildings, as well as an artifact-filled museum. Inside, you’ll see excavated items from the original communities, a well-preserved vessel, and some remains that gave the Bay of Bones its frightful name.
Museum Entrance | The cost of entry is 100 MKD (under 2 euros) and gives you access to the floating village and accompanying museum. Opening hours are from 9:00 to 16:00 year-round from Tuesday to Sunday.
The museum is closed on Mondays. However, there’s a chance it closes earlier on some winter days and stays open later during the high season.
Other Things to Note | The Bay of Bones is accessible by both car and boat. As mentioned before, it’s usually one of the stops on a tour around Lake Ohrid. If you’re traveling in a group and want to book a private tour in advance, here is a well-regarded East Coast and St. Naum Monastery option.
Most boat captains will provide ample time to peek into the homes of the archaeological complex. However, you might run into time constraints if you add a stop-off at the museum. Expect to spend between 30 minutes to an hour here to see the whole thing.
If you are up for some underwater exploring, you also can hire local guides for diving. For further details and a more in-depth look at visiting the museum, check out my guide to the Bay of Bones.
Spend Some Time At Sveti Naum
The most popular trip from Ohrid, Sveti Naum, is a gorgeous monastery sitting along soothing freshwater springs and looking out over the still waters of Lake Ohrid.
The religious complex, also known as the Monastery of St. Naum, is a Byzantine-era structure built in the early 10th century. Its creator, the Bulgarian ‘wonderworker’ and missionary Naum, was an icon around Lake Ohrid and a huge influence in the region.
Reaching the monastery is quite easy, a major road leads toward it from Ohrid, or you can come by boat. For boat transport options, revert to my ‘Hop on a Boat Cruise’ section. If you’re looking to book a trip beforehand, this shared cruise to St. Naum is also a good choice.
As far as reaching it by car, just head south on the P1301/P501 highway. Directly before the border of Albania, you’ll see signs for Sveti Naum. To park at the facilities it will cost 100 MKD.
Things To Do | Besides roaming around the historic grounds, there is plenty to keep you busy for a half day. The property has a small connecting garden, accompanied by colorful peacocks, and calming fountains, and is home to the tiny Church of Saint Petka.
Between the parking lot and the exterior of the complex walls, a row of memorabilia shops and open-air eateries form a line beside a small walking street. Behind them, bordering the church gardens, you’ll notice Black Drim’s Springs. Its translucent, placid waters are stunning, with paddle boats offering rides across for a negotiable fee. If you don’t bring your own food, I recommend eating at one of the restaurants at the spring’s edge.
As I mentioned before, Sveti Naum Beach is a gorgeous place to throw a towel down. After exploring the monastery on a hot day, it’s hard to beat a cool dip in Lake Ohrid.
For a more detailed look at visiting the church, check out my guide to the Monastery of St. Naum.
ATrek Up To Tsar Samuel's Fortress
Looming above Ohrid Old Town, the towering Tsar Samuel’s Fortress is one of the top things to do in Ohrid. With spectacular panoramas of the lake and a distinctly medieval feel, the hilltop castle dominates the town’s skyline.
While the courtyard inside is lacking in features, with a small cistern and a few stone outlines here and there, walking the walls emphasizes the beauty of the fortification. Wandering across the barriers to the prominent tower viewpoints allows for extravagant photos of the surrounding landscape.
Location means everything and the spot where the fortress stands was said to have held strongholds as far back as 200 B.C. However, it wasn’t until the 10th century that Czar Samuel restored the grounds into a more medieval-type castle.
At that time, the city of Ohrid was known as the capital of the Bulgarian Empire. When you start dipping into the annals of the region, it’s eye-opening to see how many kingdoms claimed dominion over these parts.
Castle Entry | The price of admission to Tsar Samuel’s Fortress is 150 MKD. Come here for a summarized history of Ohrid and an excellent vantage point of Lake Ohrid.
Check Out The Famous Church Of Saint John At Kaneo
Perched atop a craggy cliff along the lakeshore, the Church of Saint John at Kaneo will be most travelers’ first stop. The reason? It’s the most photogenic place in Ohrid, if not the whole of North Macedonia.
Maybe it was just dumb luck, or perhaps the skyrocketing temperatures during my visit, but I was able to avoid most of the crowds. The picture is the main goal for people here, so they filter through pretty quickly.
Known also as the Church of Saint John the Theologian, it’s worth the visit, even if it’s for only a few moments. It’s dedicated to John of Patmos (possibly John the Apostle), the author of the Book of Revelation, and has the traditional Macedonian Orthodox look.
I recommend heading up the hill behind the church to find some shade amongst the airy pine forest after a walk around. The scenery is gorgeous here as is the view of the church. If you follow the trail upwards, you’ll eventually reach the castle, but I preferred the hike down more than up.
That way when you’re done admiring the fine architecture, you can pop down to the neighboring Kaneo Beach for a cooldown.
Explore The Churches In Old Town Ohrid
The Church of Saint John is certainly iconic, but it’s not the only church worth visiting in Ohrid. There are more than a dozen within a short distance of each other, most constructed during the Byzantine era and Orthodox.
Here are the ones I found especially worthwhile on my walk through the Ohrid Old Town:
Church of Saints Clement and Panteleimon | Halfway between the fortress and the Church of Saint John the Theologian, you’ll find this beautiful church. It’s an archeological site with active excavations to go along with pleasant views of the lake. There are opportunities to take a guided tour here.
Church of Saint Nicholas Bolnichki | Off of Tsar Samuel Street, the small church has a charming, quiet garden. You’ll most likely find yourself walking by at some point in Ohrid.
Church of Saint Sophia | Built in the Middle Ages, the church resides in the heart of Ohrid. Through the doors, time-honored art awaits you, while the impossibly green garden contrasts the faded brick walls nicely. The arched backside has a noticeably Romanesque look to it.
Church of Holy Mary Peryvleptos | Simplistic from the exterior, but rich and vividly painted inside. The frescoes are splendidly preserved, with strong, medieval themes and secret illustrative meanings.
Kamensko Church | At the top of the Turkish bazaar, you’ll find this inconspicuous church, although you’re bound to hear its bells ring. The magnificent golden dome glimmers in the sunlight, while the intricately etched reredos inside pair well with the colorful frescoes.
Expect to pay a fee between 100 MKD and 200 MKD to enter the interiors of the more renowned churches.
There is just so much history throughout the old town and it is often directly related to the churches. Take a few hours to explore the cobbled streets and admire the uniqueness of each one.
For a unique escapade, you can head outside of town, past Openica, to the Monastery of Saints Cosmas and Damian. They offer a wonderful monastery winery tour and wine-tasting experience here on GetYourGuide and here on Viator.
Admire The Ancient Theatre of Ohrid
As you walk from Ohrid up towards Tsar Samuel’s Fortress, you’ll find yourself face-to-face with the ancient theater. Carrying on tradition from the past, it’s still used for events and performances.
Unlike many of the old theaters found around North Macedonia, this one was built in classical antiquity, during the Hellenistic period. If you’ve traveled in the area, you’ll notice how peculiar it is to have arenas of this sort make it from ancient Greece through the Roman times.
A Little Background | During their rule, the Romans were said to use the theater for gladiator fights as well as publicly held executions. While this is glorified by movies today, locals started to detest the site for that very reason.
You won’t see much of the original architecture, it’s heavily renovated, however, there’s still a small section in eyesight. I think it’s a perfect place to stop for a break on your way up to the castle.
Have An Evening Stroll Along The Lake Ohrid Waterfront
Every evening, like clockwork, I found myself gravitating towards the edge of Lake Ohrid for sunset.
From the end of the old town towards the southern beaches, a long promenade hugs the banks of the river. People gather here for an afternoon stroll and, on occasion, a bit of exercise. It gave me whimsical flashbacks of my time in Albania, heading out for a daily xhiro.
Ohrid is spectacular at this hour, the sun shines golden in the sky as night approaches and a dark silhouette of the fortress and hilltop houses appears in view. It also helps that the temperature becomes bearable in the dire part of summer.
The street perpendicular to the promenade starts getting busy in peak season, with hundreds of people gathering to play the popup boardwalk games, talk, and laugh with friends. Rows of food stands draw you in with the smell of fresh donuts, corn on the cob, and grilled meat.
After a day in the sun, this is the area that will give you a boost. The buzzing energy and carnival-type feel is an experience you’ll want to soak up!
Hit The Bazaar At Night
Where the promenade ends, the bazaar begins. At night, it’s the thumping heartbeat of Lake Ohrid. Colorful shops, bustling bars, and delightful scents mix to create wonderful vibes.
Everybody who spent the day on the lake inevitably ends up here for a nightcap.
As you walk the streets, especially Goce Delchev, you’ll find it difficult not to stop at one of the many restaurants. The open-air seating and slow-roasting meats appear every few feet.
Here are some restaurants that stood out to me in the bazaar:
Brioni 2008 | There are some mixed reviews online, but I enjoyed my meal here. The servers were friendly, the atmosphere relaxing, and the prices were very reasonable. I was a fan of the goulash.
Vkusno Salim Usta | A frantically busy Turkish restaurant that does tasty grilled meats. This place gets busy quickly, but there is a fairly fast turnover. Try some of the baked beans to go along with the meats.
You’ll also find plenty more eateries serving traditional cuisine. If the Macedonian dishes agree with your taste buds, you can look into this wonderful cooking class for another day.
Afterward, you can grab some gelato on the road down towards the water. In this area there are plenty of bars and cafes too, they were packed at the time of my visit, but it was also when the UEFA Euros were going on.
If you are looking for the lively part of town, I suggest heading to the bazaar at night. Make sure to take a peak at the ancient Chanar Tree when you’re there too!
Enjoy A Lakeside Lunch
I’ve mentioned some restaurants in the bazaar, but a trip to Ohrid isn’t complete without a lakeside lunch. Expect chilled-out vibes, delicious food, and world-class views.
A few spots in particular have stuck in my memory. They are almost touching one another and are located along the rocky shores between Kaneo Beach and Potpesh Beach:
Kaneo Restaurant | Just below the Church of Saint John the Theologian, this aptly named restaurant has a luxury feel and a top-notch menu. Just remember when eating lakeside, the prices tend to be closer to Western standards.
Kaj Kanevche | My partner and I spent a few hours here, picking at a delectable Macedonian-tasting platter and sipping on some cool beverages. The setting was just extremely welcoming, with a table right on the water, a cool breeze stifling the summer heat, and Galicica Mountain in the distance.
Fisherman’s House Kaneo | This place is, unsurprisingly, known for its fish. They have a few different freshwater options and do them the Ohrid way i.e. grilled.
All of these restaurants have beautiful lakeside terraces and are ideal for a bite to eat in between swimming. Afterward, you can hit up the local SUP Club Ohrid for a paddleboarding session. If you’re new to it you can check out their guided tour here.
Visit Galicica National Park
For spectacular views and a change of scenery, head to Galicica National Park. Smack between Lake Ohrid and Lake Prespa, along the Ohrid and Resen municipality line, the nature reserve is the best spot for hiking in the area.
The park has several trails, ranging from easy to difficult, and various unique species of flora and fauna. Most adrenaline-based activities around Lake Ohrid also use Galicia National Park as their starting point.
Tours | Paragliding adventures take off from the mountain peak, offering a true bird’s eye view of the lake. While full-day ATV expeditions guide you through the highlands, finding the best sights and scratching that extreme sports itch. In most circumstances, companies will pick you up from your hotel or at the Monastery of St. Naum.
National Park Entrance | There is a fee of 250 MKD to visit the reserve. This is oftentimes covered when going on a tour through the park.
Head Over The Border To Albania
If you look at a map of Lake Ohrid, a large section of the shoreline belongs to Albania. While it isn’t quite half, there are several towns along the banks ready to be explored.
Long-term readers of this blog will understand my fascination with the tiny Balkan paradise. It’s one of my absolute favorite countries in the world and a place filled with amazing beach towns, unreal mountain treks, and super friendly people.
Don’t expect to experience it all on a day trip from Ohrid but as a starting point, crossing the border to one of the lakeside villagers is a great start.
The main stopover after leaving North Macedonia is the quiet, charming city of Pogradec. It’s the gateway to many of the lake’s western towns and also a fantastic spot to try traditional Albanian cuisine. On the road leading there, the serene Driloni National Park is a wonderful alternative or addition to a day at the beach.
Getting There | Getting to Pogradec and Albania in general from Ohrid can be a bit tricky. If you don’t find a cab driver with a card that designates them to enter and exit Albania, you’ll have to get creative. The suggested way would be to exit a cab just before the border, walk through, and then find a cab or walk the rest of the way to Pogradec. If you’re in the hiking mood, you can also make your way across the border after reaching Sveti Naum.
Another option would be joining a tour from Ohrid. This full-day private Lake Ohrid and Albania tour is highly regarded and hits some great spots around the whole lake.
If a longer-term trip to Albania is on the cards then take a look at my Albania Travel Page. I spent three amazing months discovering the country and highly recommend visiting. Once overlooked on Balkan itineraries, it’s quickly becoming a must-visit destination.
GETTING TO LAKE OHRID
Most cities from within North Macedonia will have bus routes heading to Lake Ohrid. Make sure to check with the bus station for exact times. I found the majority of sites online either missed routes or weren’t completely accurate.
Maybe it’s better now, but not when I visited. Ticket attendants were both helpful and friendly, so ask for help if needed. Some common routes to Ohrid on the tourist track are from Skopje, Bitola, and Prilep.
Buses from Tirana, Albania leave daily. There are a couple of different companies that leave from the international bus station. I used FlixBus which I find trustworthy.
WHERE TO STAY IN OHRID
Lake Ohrid has a bunch of small towns along its shores, each offering lodging options. Most people end up staying in the town of Ohrid. It’s where I stayed and it has all the amenities a popular travel town would have. There are plenty of sights to see, great restaurants, and a lively social scene.
If you want some more peace and quiet, you can have a look at the smaller surrounding towns like Struga or the villages in the south. If you’re taking your RV or campervan through North Macedonia you’re in luck, there are plenty of sites to choose from on the road to Albania. Here are some great options:
- Robinson Sunset Guest House | Located just south of Ohrid in the town of Lagadin, it offers a nice escape from the crowds. Robinson Sunset Guest House is a beautiful property with various private and dorm rooms. It’s also part of the I Travel Balkans group, a set of independently owned hostels that came together to promote fun and quality travel in the Balkans. I’ve spent a lot of time in various hostels that are part of the group and they all have excellent hospitality and friendly owners.
- Villa Varosh & Villa Dudanov | Two excellent lodgings in Ohrid with great locations. They have private room and apartment options at a reasonable price.
- La Vista Luxury Villa | A luxury option right outside of Ohrid. It has a beautiful pool with outstanding views of the lake.
For more options you can check here.
HERE’S SOME MORE AWESOME PLACES IN NORTH MACEDONIA
