Berat is bursting at the seams with history and charm. Split into two distinct areas along the banks of the river Osum in central Albania, it’s one of Albania’s UNESCO cities.
Dubbed the “City of a Thousand Windows” Berat’s picturesque Ottoman houses neatly climb the surrounding hills. Their neat rows of windows face the brilliant blue river below and will remind you of times long gone. Tradition still runs strong, cobbled streets line the old town and a still-inhabited castle stands on the hilltop.
My visit to Berat was a wonderful experience. Between exploring inside the castle walls, spectacular aerial views from ancient ruins, and authentic local cuisine, I enjoyed every minute of it. I also feel it’s the perfect addition to any Albania travel plans.
Here is my guide to Berat. Keep your itinerary full of fun with these top things to do in Berat!
WANDER AROUND THE BERAT CASTLE
It’s hard to talk about Berat without also mentioning the magnificent Berat Castle. Hulking over the old town, the fortress is still called home by dozens of locals. A steep walk up from the iconic Mangalem Quarter, the castle is normally the first thing people head to when arriving in Berat. There are also enough things to do in Berat Castle to keep you busy for a whole day.
Further Reading | If you want a more detailed look at Berat Castle, feel free to look at my “A Guide to Berat Castle” article.
When you enter through the impressive gates you’ll have a choice of where to start. The main attraction within the walls is definitely the stunning Holy Trinity Church. A Byzantine church built between the 13th and 14th centuries, it’s still in pristine condition and boasts fantastic views of the valleys that border Berat. It also sits right below the main fortress, so you can head there after to see the old barracks and ruins of the White Mosque.
While the Holy Trinity Church is the crown jewel, you’ll also find a number of other churches to explore within Berat Castle. It’s actually quite impressive how they were able to fit so many within the space they had. The Cathedral of the “Assumption of Saint Mary” even doubles as the Onufri Iconography Museum.
Some other highlights in the castle include a colossal statue head of Constantine the Great and the shattered remnants of the Red Mosque. If you want to know the history behind everything at the castle, I suggest taking a guided tour of Berat that spends time at the castle.
When you’re done strolling around, pop into one of the many traditional restaurants. Berat is a foodie destination for sure and there are some epic eats right here within the walls. I mention some of those a little later in the food section. Along with great food, you’ll get outstanding views at almost every establishment.
If you enjoy Albanian food and want to learn the basics of cooking it, there’s a fun cooking class you can join with a family that still lives inside the castle.
Before you head back down to the city, make sure to catch the spectacular views from the Berat Viewing Platform. You’ll have a bird’s eye view of the Gorica Quarter and Gorica Bridge.
Entry | Between the hours of 9:00 and 18:00 there is an entrance fee of 300 Lek. Outside of those times, you can pass the gates for free. Alternatively, you can take a shortcut about halfway up Rruga Mihal Komnena to another unattended entry point.
Accommodation options within Berat Castle | Guest House Luli (budget-friendly) / Berati Castle Hotel (esteemed guesthouse) / KRIS Guesthouse (gorgeous property)
HIKE UP TO THE GORICA RUINS
Opposite Berat Castle, you’ll find the Gorica Ruins perched atop another hill. The ancient remains date back thousands of years and their history, while important to the area, is lesser known.
Despite being a heap of scattered stones now, they are still worth the visit. The ruins offer a different perspective of Berat than the castle, but with as breathtaking of a view. The whole of the Mangalem Quarter can be seen, including St. Michael’s Church, the bridge, and thousands of windows.
Another reason to trek to the Gorica Ruins is to adventure around the surrounding hills. The area has multiple connecting hiking paths that offer different vantage points of the city and countryside. It’s also a nice way to escape the busy town and see the outdoors. Oh, and the sunsets and sunrises aren’t half bad either!
Getting there | A trail behind the Gorica Quarter leads up to the Gorica Ruins (maps). Signs pointing towards the trail marker are plastered around the quarter, you just have to keep an eye out for them. Once on the trail head for the canopy of trees that hangs above the large slab of stone blocks.
CHECK OUT ALL THE MOSQUES AND CHURCHES
The whole Balkan Peninsula is full of thousands of churches and mosques, but Berat seems to flaunt them more than most. Seriously, there’s a crazy amount of beautiful churches and mosques in the city.
Of course, the previously mentioned Holy Trinity Church is the most popular, along with St. Michaels Church, and the others within the castle walls. However, there are several more religious structures worth checking out in Berat. I’ll warn you though, that getting inside most of them is tricky. Some of the older buildings are only accessed by searching for a key master and I found them to be professionals at hide and seek.
Tip | If you find any gaps in the exteriors or paneless windows, you can sneak your phone through and snap some pictures of the beautiful artwork inside.
Here are some of the properties outside of the castle you might find interesting:
St. Michael’s Church | The Byzantine church is just beneath the Berat Castle at the end of a stone pathway on the Mangalem side. The views from the exterior are worth the quick, but steep walk up.
Saint Demetrius Cathedral | A large modern church that becomes quite impressive when lit up at night.
The Bachelor’s Mosque | A small mosque at the bottom of the Mangalem district with beautiful paintings.
Halveti Tekke and King’s Mosque | Both are part of a religious complex that includes the mosque, dervish rooms, and monastery. The interior ceilings of both buildings are colorfully painted.
Gorica Churches | The 19th-century Church of Saint Spiridon is situated in the middle of the Gorica Quarter. It’s a three-nave basilica with a flat-faced bell tower. The Church of Saint Thomas is on the eastern edge of the quarter. It’s small and simple but has pretty views of the opposite side of the river.
EXPLORE THE MANGALEM QUARTER
There are two distinct quarters in Berat, and they stand directly across from each other. They are split in the middle by the magnificent Osum River and have two bridges connecting each neighborhood. It’s easy enough to get stuck staring at the thousands of windows appearing from the historic white Ottoman houses, but I suggest wandering through the ancient quarters.
The first of those districts, and also the busiest, is the Mangalem Quarter. It hides beneath the Berat Castle, the houses slowly creeping up towards it. The neighborhood is filled with restaurants, shops, and bed & breakfasts. Grape vines shade the streets and families sell jams and small trinkets from their homes.
The colorful Bachelor’s Mosque appears where the district meets the modern Bulevardi Republika. Just up the street from there, you’ll notice a derelict building that was the Former Palace of the Pasha.
You can easily see the Mangalem Quarter in an hour or so. I suggest taking it slow and grabbing a bite to eat at one of the restaurants afterward. Most places have covered patios, a relaxing feel, and great views.
Where to stay in the Mangalem Quarter | Hostel Mangalem (budget-friendly) / Hotel Mangalemi (gorgeous property) / Guest House Panorama (hotel with a view)
HEAD OVER TO THE GORICA QUARTER
Mangalem’s “twin neighborhood” is the equally as beautiful Gorica Quarter. The iconic Gorica Bridge joins the two parts of old Berat together and offers access from the western part of town. It’s one of the oldest Ottoman-era bridges in all of Albania and an unofficial landmark of Berat.
After crossing it into the Gorica Quarter, you’ll get a slightly different feel than the Mangalem Quarter. Unlike its opposite, which also hosts mosques, the Gorica side is only home to churches. The most popular of those to visit are the previously mentioned Church of Saint Spiridon and the Church of Saint Thomas.
Besides the churches, you’ll find the Gorica Quarter oozing with charm. There’s a rocky promenade lining the river, classic stone streets all about, and dozens of cute guest houses. There are some fantastic eateries in the area too, most sporting a direct line of vision to the castle.
In the afternoon the sun shines brightly on this side of the river, illuminating the matching white houses. It makes for a great picture and, in the cooler months, an ideal walking spot.
Of course, above it all is the tattered Gorica Ruins. After you’re done “taking in the neighborhood” you can head up the hill to see a topside view.
Where to stay in the Gorica Quarter | Berat Backpackers Hostel (budget-friendly) / Hotel Gorica (traditional property) / Koroni Boutique Hotel (beautiful boutique hotel)
EXPERIENCE XHIRO AS THE SUN GOES DOWN
You’ll most likely come across the word xhiro during your travels to Albania. Don’t be fooled, xhiro is just the Albanian word for walk. While it seems simple, there’s an almost artistic approach to how it’s done in the country.
It’s an activity ingrained into the daily lives of almost every Albanian, with hundreds of people gathering in the streets to walk and socialize. In the warmer months, that’s usually when the sun goes down. So, don’t be surprised when you see crowded walkways around sunset.
Pretty much every city or town I visited had a special spot for the healthy tradition, and Berat is no different. The place to be is Bulevardi Republika, a pedestrian walkway lined with bars and cafes. Feel free to join the crowd and saunter up and down the street a few times. Afterward, you can settle down for a beverage at one of the shops.
TRY SOME TRADITIONAL ALBANIAN CUISINE
If one thing’s for certain, Berat does food particularly well. Along the coastal towns in Albania it’s common to see Greek and Italian foods dominate the menus. However, in Berat, you’ll mostly find traditional Albanian foods throughout the restaurants.
Some common dishes you’ll see are stuffed peppers, stuffed eggplant, musaka, qofte, and a variety of grilled meats. You can’t go wrong with anything that has Tavë in front of it either. These are just a variety of different casserole dishes, usually cooked in clay pots.
I also found the food in Berat, in general, to be cheaper than most other places in the country.
Here are some popular eateries worth checking out:
Temi Albanian Food | A beloved restaurant inside the Berat Castle walls. You’ll find all the classics and great service here. It’s worth stopping in after touring inside the castle.
Homemade Food Lili | Super delicious homemade food with a wonderful atmosphere. If you want a warm welcome and an authentic taste give it a try.
Eni Traditional Food Berat | Simple, flavorful Albanian cuisine across the Gorica Bridge in the Gorica Quarter.
Lundra 2 | A fast food joint in the heart of the Mangalem Quarter. If you’re looking for something quick in Berat it’s a good option.
Friendly House | Good food and an amazing terrace to take in the sights.
If you want a more do-it-yourself option, there’s a highly regarded family-run cooking class that takes place inside the Berat Castle walls. You’ll learn a bit about the process of certain traditional dishes and get a great meal out of it.
*OSUMI CANYON AND BOGOVA WATERFALL
If you are looking to hit up some amazing nature, then a trip to Osumi Canyon and/or Bogova Waterfall is the way to go. They are both to the south of Berat and within an hour’s drive away. Both places are difficult to get to by public transport, so driving yourself or joining a group tour is the best option. Tours usually leave in the morning from the center of Berat.
Osumi Canyon | A breathtaking gorge with steep cliffsides and a unique ecosystem. There is a paved road to get here, so it’s easily accessible by car. Stop by the Osumi Canyon Viewing Point for some great photos or head down to the water and have a swim in chilly waters. You can take tours here that focus on canyoning or river tubing the gorge.
Bogova Waterfall | A cascade that runs into a super cold, but extremely beautiful deep green pool. You’ll have to hike a trail through nature to reach your final destination. There’s a car park (maps) for the waterfall a short walk away. You can also try a wine and waterfall experience from Berat or a 4×4 tour of Mount Tomorr and Bogova Waterfall.
You can knock both of these off with a combination tour. Here are a few highly enjoyed options:
I put a star next to these two because, unfortunately, the weather didn’t allow me to visit. I felt a need to mention them, so others don’t miss out as well. They remain at the top of my Albania bucket list and will be a priority during my next visit.
These are all the things that made my stopover in the city of a thousand windows especially memorable (plus one that didn’t). When you’re in Berat, I suggest you try them out, so you can make the best out of your trip to one of Albania’s most beautiful cities!
WHERE TO STAY IN BERAT
HOW TO GET TO BERAT
If you have a car in Albania, you can reach Berat from almost anywhere within a day. Popular public transport options include trips from Tirana, Vlorë, and Fier.
I cover all the typical routes to Berat, including timetables and schedules in my Albania Bus Guide. It has all the details you could want for traveling to Berat from all over the country.
HERE’S SOME MORE ALBANIA TRAVEL INSPIRATION:
