Blagaj is a small, wildly beautiful town in southern Bosnia and Herzegovina, known for its picturesque Dervish monastery. Often visited as a day trip from Mostar, it can be reached by public transport or as part of a larger Herzegovina tour.
My first time here was on a ‘History of Herzegovina and War Tour’ back in 2018. It was one of our first stops and I enjoyed roaming through the small religious complex and relaxing by the cooling riverside.
After that brief, but wonderful trip, I knew I’d come back again. This time, I was on my own, so I could have more time to explore the town and especially hike up to the hilltop castle. I’m happy to have realized that plan recently. It allowed me to write this article and share a bit more about the town in general, a place that deserves more than a stopover.
Here is a guide to the historic village, including the top things to do in Blagaj and an overview of a typical day tour. I also share some camping options, other great places to stay for an overnight trip, and a look at the riverside restaurants.
This is my detailed guide to Blagaj.
VISIT THE BLAGAJ TEKKE
The natural and architectural ensemble of Blagaj is on UNESCO’s tentative list for Bosnia & Herzegovina and the Blagaj Tekke is the main reason for that. It’s also an obligatory stop in every Herzegovina day tour.
The picturesque monastery sits at the base of a sky-high cliff and straddles the beginning of the fleeting Buna River. The complex was built in the 1500s by the Dervish, a member branch of the Sufi religious order.
The group is known for its rituals which involve bodily movements, specifically whirling, which makes sense when you see the hypnotic waters of the Buna Spring. The tekke they built here was used as a spiritual retreat and desired for its peaceful setting.
Entrance Fee | It costs 10 BAM to enter into the monastery complex. You’ll be provided with coverings for your shoulders and legs for free if you don’t already have them.
Unless you’re looking to dive deep into Dervish history, entering the property isn’t a must. There is little to see inside, although you get a closer vantage point of the mystical cave that the water flows from.
I toured the buildings when I first came, but I found the views from across the river more than enough on my last visit.
AN OVERVIEW OF THE TYPICAL HERZEGOVINA TOUR
Places You’ll See
Blagaj | Visit the Buna Spring and learn about the town’s Ottoman history. You’re given free time to grab a coffee or tea at one of the restaurants and enter the Blagaj Tekke.
Počitelj | A medieval town with just a few residents. You have time to hike up to the castle ruins where you’ll have a bird’s eye view of the Neretva River and surrounding countryside.
Kravica Waterfall | The scenic cascade usually comes up as one of the best nature destinations in Bosnia & Herzegovina. You’ll have plenty of time to swim in the refreshing natural pools.
Viewpoint | Some tours will have a stop at one of the iconic viewpoints in Mostar’s surrounding mountains.
Tours usually last for the whole day and can be booked through just about every hotel, hostel, or travel agency.
Some of the higher-rated ones can book out during the summer months, so it’s worth checking here with GetYourGuide and here with Viator if you have time constraints and need to plan ahead.
CHECK OUT THE OTHER RELIGIOUS BUILDINGS
If you decide to spend a night in Blagaj or happen to have a few hours to kill, there are a few small, beautiful religious buildings in town. Of course, they aren’t nearly as impressive as the Blagaj Tekke, but they’re worth a look anyway.
Here is a brief look at them:
Church of the Holy Trinity | A white single-tower church at the beginning of town. It’s very picturesque and easily noticeable when arriving by bus.
Church of St. Vasily Ostroshki | Built in 1893, the orthodox church is basic but beautiful. It also goes by the name of the Temple of St. Basel, which might sound familiar if you’ve been to Ostrog Monastery in Montenegro.
Sultan-Suleiman’s Mosque | The simple mosque with a single minaret. It’s just around the corner from the parking lot.
You’ll find all of these right off the main road, so if you have a wander down the street you’ll manage to see them all. On my visits, these buildings were closed, so I was only able to walk by and see their exteriors.
HIKE UP TO THE BLAGAJ FORTRESS
My main reason for visiting Blagaj a second time was to hike up to the beautiful, well-maintained hilltop castle. The Fortress of Herceg Stjepan Kosača as it’s known has sensational views of the countryside, with 360-degree panoramas from the round towers and sturdy walls.
To reach the castle, you must hike up a well-marked and recently constructed trail. It takes around half an hour to go up, but the end result is free access and almost no crowds. When I visited I was there for about 20 minutes before I saw another person. I’ve eleven heard of people camping inside the courtyard overnight.
There are future plans to create a lift going from the base of the hill to the castle entrance, but I think it’s quite a few years away from that.
It’s worth doing some online research on the state-protected castle before your trip, as there’s no information given when you’re there.
Getting There | If you’re driving yourself, there’s free parking (maps) at the entrance to the fortress hiking trail. For those of you walking, turn left where the road forks at the car park and head north. The road leads to the trailhead.
More Hiking | There is another trail that heads around the castle if you’re feeling up to it. The views are pretty good, but to get down this way (without backtracking) is a steep and strenuous walk. The track eventually finishes on the opposite side of the Buna. Mountain climbing is done over this way too, there’s an information center on the main street in Blagaj, but I’ve never seen it open.
WANDER AROUND TOWN
Blagaj is a tiny village, with not much going on outside of the fortress and riverside attractions. There’s pretty much one street besides that and it leads through the whole town and eventually finishes at a parking lot, before turning into a pedestrian street where the Dervish monastery and Buna Spring are.
On the western part of the street, you’ll find the previously mentioned churches, a few more reasonably priced restaurants, and a large cemetery. All cross streets heading north will eventually take you to the fortress, while everything to the south leads you down to camping sites or restaurants by the water.
To the east, along the pedestrian road, you’ll find vendors and shops selling souvenirs, along with some historic buildings like the Velagić House. When you come to the walking bridge, make sure to cross it and follow a small path behind Restoran Vrelo that leads to the iconic Blagaj viewpoint.
It gets busy here, but the breathtaking close-up sights of the karst cliffs with the monastery beside them are worth the crowds. On sunny days, you’ll see thousands of tiny birds zipping around before heading back to their nests in the craggy-shaded mountainside.
RELAX AT A RIVERSIDE RESTAURANT
Restaurants in Blagaj tend to have wonderful views and serve traditional food, most notably the local river trout. However, you should temper your expectations when it comes to these places, especially if you’ve explored the food scene in Mostar and Sarajevo.
Meals usually fall in the average range, but the chilled-out atmosphere and riverside terraces are the selling point anyway. With that being said, there are plenty of restaurants to choose from, even if there isn’t much variety.
Here are your options:
RESTAURANTS NEAR THE TEKKE
Restoran Vrelo | The location is spectacular, with stunning views of the monastery and karst mountain. I’ve been here a couple of times over the years and enjoyed the ambiance. It’s a great place to have a coffee or tea, especially if you arrive before the tourist buses start coming in. The food is decent, specifically the trout, and the service was friendly even though I’ve heard mixed things. Prices are high for Bosnia & Herzegovina, but that’s to be expected at all the restaurants near the tekke.
Mlininca Restaurant Blagaj | They are known for having the best food in this part of the river and also have a more intimate feel than some of the other spots. I’ll probably repeat this a few more times but expect higher prices due to the view.
Others | Some more options include Restoran Tekija, the Bunski Biser Restaurant, and Restaurant Fajić. They all serve traditional food and have waterfront terraces.
Know Before You Go | These restaurants fill up quickly when the buses start to come around lunchtime. While I never experienced this myself, the waiters can be hit or miss with their service especially as the crowds come in. It’s also common for restaurants to reserve the seats closest to the water for customers ordering food. While I don’t necessarily agree with this practice, that’s just how things go. Lastly, some eateries only accept cash, so if you’re planning to pay by card make sure to ask if they accept that method of transaction beforehand.
RESTAURANTS DOWN THE RIVER
There are a couple of places down the Buna River, away from the more touristy area. They tend to be more budget-friendly and less hectic in general.
Restoran Velika ada | The restaurant has a wide-open outdoor area that is family-friendly and has nice grilled meat plates. The fish is also a favorite and it’s hard to beat the idyllic setting.
Restoran i Pansion Most | The riverside terrace is an amazing place to have a meal, and the food, in general, is well-loved. They also have a nice variety of fish platters.
OTHER PLACES
There are a few places along Blagaj’s main road where you can grab a bite to eat. Two pizza places, Caffe Pizeria Papillon and Caffe Pizzerija NERRY offer fast food meals like burgers, chicken sandwiches, and of course pizza. The prices will be more reasonable than the restaurants down by the water.
Pekara Muki seems to be the only bakery in town. It’s affordable and worth noting for those who are spending the night and want a quick breakfast.
TRANSPORT TO BLAGAJ
To get to Blagaj from Mostar you can hop on bus #10 (Sjeverni Logor – Blagaj line). I caught the bus in front of the United World College (maps) on recommendation from the manager of the hotel where I was staying. The bus takes about 30 minutes and costs 2.10 BAM each way (as of 2024).
On the way back catch the bus from the bus stop pole (maps) a few steps away from the mosque. The price is the same as on the way there.
Buses leave from Mostar every hour or so from 6:45 am to 10 pm on the weekdays and have more limited routes on the weekends. Some of these routes are with the line #12 or #13 buses. On the way back buses run from 6:15 am to 10:30 pm.
A sheet should be hung at the bus stop in Mostar with the times and route map. Alternatively, you can check the exact schedule on the Mostar Bus website.
WHERE TO STAY IN BLAGAJ
If you want to extend your stay and enjoy a night or two of countryside quiet, Blagaj has some wonderful lodging options. There are plenty of camping spots for those traveling by RV or campervan. If this is how you’re traveling, I suggest taking a look at Autocamp Holiday, Autocamp Blagaj, and River Camp Aganovac.
You’ll also find a few simple, wonderful guesthouses in the small town. Here are some options:
- Apartman Maida | Simple, well-located apartment.
- Villa Bunski biser | A hotel with amazing balcony views near the main spring.
- Guest House Blagaj & Apartment Garden | Two well-rated budget-friendly options.
For more hotels check here.
