Comitán de Dominguez, or simply Comitán for short, sits in the pleasant highlands of the Mexican state of Chiapas. Recognized as one of the country’s revered ‘Pueblos Mágicos’, you can expect a wonderful blend of cultural and historical experiences.
Chances are you’ll cross paths with Comitán at some point or another if you’re exploring Chiapas. It’s commonly used as a transfer point or quick stopover for travelers coming from San Cristobal de las Casas to the nearby El Chiflon Waterfalls.
But, when you look a little closer, you’ll find a place that deserves more than a glance. It’s a colorful city, with bustling local markets and a cuisine that’s uniquely its own. And, as the gateway to southern Chiapas, it makes the ideal base for those exploring the region’s many natural wonders.
Whenever I’m talking about my trip to Mexico with friends and family, I can’t help but bring up this underrated gem!
Here is my short guide to Comitán, where I’ll share some of my top recommendations on what to do around town. This includes tips on where to stay, some essential must-try local foods, and epic day trips (and how to get to them).
These are my favorite things to do in Comitán de Dominguez, Mexico.
Benito Juárez Square
Chances are, if you’ve traveled through Mexico before, you’ll understand the importance of the zócalo, or, the main square. It’s the beating heart of every town, drawing people in at all hours and coming to life every evening.
In Comitán, that’s Benito Juárez Square.
The central park is impossibly clean, with neatly manicured trees surrounding a large, freshly painted gazebo at its core. Sprinkled throughout are vibrant bouquets of colorful flowers and a dozen or so monuments and sculptures.
Along its four sides are peculiar souvenir shops, enticing eateries, and historic buildings. If you’re after breakfast, you can check out the restaurants at the western edge of Avenida Central Sur. Most of them offer morning specials with coffee, juice, and a hardy meal.
Next door is the elegant Teatro de la Ciudad Junchavin and behind it a museum of one of Comitán’s most notable former residents. Casa Museo Doctor Belisario Dominguez, as it’s called, is dedicated to famed physician and senator Belisario Domínguez Palencia. The town was renamed to Comitán de Dominguez in the 1910s in his honor.
Price & Times | General admission into the museum is 20 MXN. Entry times are 10 am – 7 pm from Monday to Saturday and 10 am – 2 pm on Sunday.
The city hall covers the length of the northern border of the square. It’s recognizable by the circular clock at the top of its facade, which lights up for all to see at night. In front of it, the painted letters of Comitán stand.
Despite everything else, the main feature of Benito Juárez Square remains the Templo de Santo Domingo de Guzmán. It’s a simple church, with high-reaching walls and a maize-colored exterior that dominates the views. Most events in the city happen right next to it, including a wonderful night market during celebration days
Church Hop In The Center
While most of the daily visitors in Comitán end up seeing Templo de Santo Domingo de Guzmán, there are still a few more churches worth stopping by.
After a few walks around the city, these are the ones that stood out to me:
Templo de San Jose (maps) | You’ll find this church a few blocks away from the zócalo, across from the small Plaza del Arte. With its ornate white towers and lavish golden trim, this is, in my opinion, the most photogenic building in Comitán. A few doors down the small exhibit of contemporary art called the Museo de Arte Hermila Domínguez de Castellanos displays beautiful local paintings.
Templo de San Caralampio (maps) | Located in Parque de la Pila, the small church really catches the eye with its deep yellow hue and washed red trim. A few steps away is a gallant statue of a puma on a rock.
Temple of Our Lady of Guadalupe (maps) | Or, Templo de Nuestra Señora de Guadalupe, is a simple catholic church connected to an open-aired park.
Sample The Unique Comitecan Cuisine
Mexican food is often regarded as one of the best cuisines in the world and rightfully so. What I think gets overlooked the most though is the variety of dishes found from state to state and even town to town.
Like some of the more popular foodie destinations to the north, mainly San Cristobal de las Casas and Oaxaca, you’ll find that Comitán has a flavor that’s uniquely its own. As a whole, Comitecan cuisine might look similar to other foods around Chiapas, however its addition of carrots to just about everything can’t be overstated.
Typically cooked or pickled with a blend of vinegar, sugar, and spices they add a sweet and sour taste that balances perfectly. There’s also a heavy reliance on French-style bread for some of the more iconic dishes, which adds a colonial feel to their culinary imprint. Add in the fresh local ingredients and you have a recipe for some amazing flavors.
Here are some of my recommended foods on your visit:
Pan Compuesto | A light, fluffy loaf of round French bread with refried beans, pork, and spiced pickled carrots. It’s a Comitán staple.
Torta Comiteca | Similar to pan compuesto, but a longer piece of bread is used and the sandwich is served with fresh lettuce, tomatoes, and jalapeños.
Tacos Comitecos | Golden tacos stuffed with beans, potatoes, and pork. It’s served with the famous pickled carrots, cabbage, and salsa on top.
Cascara Preparada | A crunchy pork rind with fresh vegetables, cheese, and cream.
Hueso Comiteco | A sweet and sour dish made with pork shank and pickled carrots. Often served with tostadas and hot salsa.
Many of these foods can be found at the myriad of mercados around town, with many of my favorites coming from the night market in the square. However, that seemed to be a special event during my visit, so I’d be remiss not to mention some other great options.
For some extremely tasty Comitecan eats, check out Sabores de Comitan (maps) near Parque San Sebastián. I thoroughly enjoyed the pan compuesto here, and if I had gone earlier on my trip, I’d probably have come here again. They are also supposed to have one of the best hueso comiteco dishes in town.
Another great choice is Restaurante Regional “Doña Chelo” (maps) near Parque de Guadalupe. I came here for breakfast and was definitely satisfied with my meal. The portions seemed to be plus-size as well.
Check Out The Local Markets
Markets and Mexico go hand in hand. I’ve grown to immensely appreciate the sights, sounds, and cultural experiences they offer. Along with its small city charm, Comitán has an array of local mercados that you’d expect in one of Chiapas’ largest municipalities. Here are some worth visiting:
Mercado 1 de Mayo | Right around the corner from Parque Central Benito Juárez, it’s emblematic of typical central markets throughout the region. Think tasty, reasonably-priced food, an indoor setting, local produce, and a buzzing energy.
Mercado San Jose | A small plaza of restaurants with shared seating and a modern feel. The setting is more intimate than the crowds and chaos you come to expect at the more “old school” places. With that comes slightly higher prices, but a cleaner aesthetic.
Others | As I mentioned before, the main square was absolutely hopping when I was there. I’m not sure if it was just for an event or, perhaps, a year-round occurrence. I lean towards the latter, but maybe less prominent compared to my visit. Either way, it’s worth checking out to see if the night market is on!
For cheap produce and a farmer’s market-type experience head to Central de Abasto 28 de Agosto. You’ll find all sorts of unique fruits, stores with garments, and food stalls in an outdoor mall setting.
Taste Comiteco
Several states throughout Mexico have long been known to dabble in the production of agave-distilled drinks. Think Jalisco with tequila and Oaxaca with mezcal. Well, Chiapas has one of its own too.
The name of that spirit? Comiteco.
Made exclusively in the region around Comitán de Dominguez, its process involves fermenting sap derived from the heart of the agave plant. While it’s commonly compared to mezcal, the flavor is considerably different because it doesn’t roast agave as part of the procedure. This means its taste comes off much smoother, with no smoky elements appearing in the flavor. However, it still has that distinct after-burn you get with most Mexican agave spirits.
The history of comiteco dates back hundreds of years and, while it has garnered as much attention as tequila, it remains a staple beverage in Chiapas.
Finding it in Comitán is quite easy. There are a few stores dedicated specifically to the drink, just look for the word comiteco on bottles and signs. Everything will be from small-batch local distilleries, with most of the restaurants and bars selling it on their menus as well.
It is commonly sipped on or used in cocktails and comes in an assortment of aged fruit varieties. I tasted a handful, the traditional and peach being my favorites.
Take A Trip To El Chiflon Waterfalls
El Chiflon Waterfalls, known simply as El Chiflon, is a series of 5 cascades set amongst a lush forest in southern Mexico. With vibrant turquoise pools (most of the year) and roaring white rapids pouring forth from high stone cliffs, I can safely say it’s a must-visit.
It’s also within striking distance (under 40 km away) of the city, making it one of the best things to do in Comitán. In fact, it consistently comes up as one of the top tourist destinations in Chiapas, with backpackers and other visitors making their way here for the day from as far as San Cristobal de las Casas.
Here is a basic overview of the 5 waterfalls (from closest to the park entry to furthest) along with their translated names:
- Cascada El Suspiro | ‘The Sigh’ Waterfall
- Cascada Ala de Ángel | Angel Wing Waterfall
- Cascada Velo de Novia | Bridal Veil Waterfall
- Cascada Arcoíris | Rainbow Waterfall
- Cascada Quinceañera | It doesn’t directly translate, but a quinceañera is the celebration of a girl’s 15th birthday
The first two waterfalls, Cascada El Suspiro and Cascada Ala de Ángel are a short walk from the ecotourism center entry gate. Beside the hiking path that connects them, you’ll find several snack stations, along with the park’s dedicated campsite. If you’re keen on staying here for the night, you can rent a cabin from El Chiflon Ecotourism Center or here with Booking.
Cascada Velo de Novia will be the next stop. As the largest and most fierce of the waterfalls, it’s truly a sight to behold. It takes about 45 minutes of brisk walking to reach it from the gate, and for most, it’s the last stop. At the base of the waterfall, a set of slippery stone steps leads to a couple of heavily misted viewpoints. These are what I’d call “the splash zone” as there’s no escaping getting wet, although it makes for an exhilarating experience.
Beyond the Bridal Veil Waterfall, a small dirt path leads straight up the mountain to Cascada Arcoíris and, finally, to Cascada Quinceañera. Often overlooked, these are worth the short, but intense hike up.
Other things to know:
Cost | There is an entry fee of $80 MXN per person at the gate of the El Chiflon Ecotourism Center.
Getting There | Buses (colectivos) from Comitán leave from Rapidos de la Angostura on Carr. Internacional about 3 blocks north of the OCC Bus Terminal. For a more detailed location, you can check my ‘Getting Around Comitán’ section below. To catch a bus back to town, just head to the colectivo stall across the street from the outer El Chiflon entry. It should be at the same spot you were dropped off.
Buses take around an hour to get there and leave every 15 minutes or so. I paid $40 MXN each way as of 20024.
What to Bring | Make sure to bring plenty of sunscreen and water for your trip, along with a bathing suit and towel. I also suggest wearing shoes, while the beginning hike is easy, the last two waterfalls are a bit of a trek. There are plenty of restaurants and snack shops inside the park, but it’s still recommended to bring snacks.
Explore The Lagunas De Montebello
Southeast of Comitán, near the Guatemalan border, a breathtaking collection of over 50 lakes appears amidst a forested landscape. Located within Lagunas de Montebello National Park, they are a near-essential part of any Comitán itinerary.
The beauty of the park blew me away on my visit, with its stunning viewpoints and diverse cast of lakes. While it’s not feasible to visit every lake on a day trip, it’s possible to bounce around the most popular ones with a moto-taxi!
Here are some of my recommended lakes to see:
Lago Tziscao | The largest of the lakes is a gorgeous turquoise color, with a full-fledged town built on its shore. There are a few food options here, along with cabañas and lodges for an overnight stay. At its southern tip, you’ll find another small lake called Lago Internacional, a place I’ll bring up in the next section.
Lagunas de Colores | The ‘Colored Lakes’ are a cluster of five gorgeous lakes, each with a different size, shape, and color. The best way to see the varying colors is by hiking between them.
Lago de Montebello | One of the larger lakes, it has a sandy shore which makes swimming access easier.
Lago Pojoj | A gorgeous lake with a small island in the middle of it. Renting a wooden raft and paddling out into the waters is quite popular here.
Cinco Lagos | Five Lakes as it’s called in English is another must-see, highlighted by its scenic viewpoint. There are bathrooms and a few places to grab food here.
Entry | To enter Parque Nacional Lagunas de Montebello, you must pay an entry fee of about $30 MXN at the control point and another $30 MXN or so for a local community fee.
How To Get Around | If you don’t have a car, it can get a bit tricky to get around with everything being so spread out. But, it’s not all bad news, there are plenty of motorbike taxis (tuk-tuks) that offer tours around the lakes. My partner and I grabbed one at a moto-taxi stop along the main road near Lago Tzicao for $70 MXN. Don’t expect a wealth of knowledge, they essentially just drive you to the places you want to go and wait for you at each destination, but it was worth it nonetheless.
Getting There | To get to Lagunas de Montebello from Comitán, head to the Transporte Montebello Station on Segunda Avenida Pte. Nte. 23. A link to the exact location is below in my ‘Getting Around Comitán’ section below. The bus cost $75 MXN each way, however on the way back we paid $65 MXN because we waved down the bus along the highway close to the control point. If you aren’t staying there overnight, make sure to ask the driver when the last bus back to Comitán will be.
A Mini Trip Over The Guatemalan Border
Visiting Lago Internacional in the Lagunas de Montebello National Park was one of my absolute favorite things to do on my Comitán trip. The tiny, reflective lake sits on the border of Mexico and Guatemala, with half of its body on each side.
While the lake itself is nothing to write home about, its specialness comes from the fact you can be simultaneously in two countries at once! This can all be done without a typical border crossing, as there’s no immigration point or checking of passports.
A couple of white pillars stare across from each other at Lago Internacional, designating the exact whereabouts of the border. For the full experience, I suggest strolling to each of these In turn.
Between the two points, you’ll find rows of stalls selling handicrafts and different foods. Many of these vendors sell “All Things Guatemalan”, with different beverages and trinkets originating from the country to the south found throughout the marketplace.
Other Day Trips From Comitan
As I’ve mentioned above, Comitán is near some spectacular natural sites. Besides the usual suspects, there are also a few lesser destinations worth the journey.
You’ll also find that the city is a nice base for exploring some of the popular ruins throughout Chiapas, especially since it is so close to the southern border. Here are some day trips worth looking into in the area:
Tenam Puente | The archaeological park is just a 20-minute drive outside of Comitán. Often overlooked by travelers, the crowds stay to a minimum, but the small well-preserved pyramid is worth the visit alone.
Chinkultic | A small, quiet archaeological site just outside the area of Lagunas de Montebello. It’s worth adding to your itinerary on the trip to the lakes.
Cenote de Chukumaltik | A clean body of water surrounded by plants. Its prices are much fairer than most of the popular Yucatan cenotes.
Las 3 Tzimoleras | If you’re looking for something adventurous, you can head about 20 minutes out of town to Tzimol. Here you’ll find a tour company that does rappelling, canyoning, and exploration tours of the nearby waterfalls. You can check out the tour company’s website here if you want more details.
San Cristobal de las Casas | If you’re in Chiapas, you’ve undoubtedly heard of this well-loved backpacker town. I’m a huge fan, and if you aren’t planning to stay there on your travels, a day trip is definitely worth the effort. Buses often leave from Comitán and take around 2 hours each way.
GETTING AROUND COMITAN
The city itself is easily walkable, but it can get tricky when you’re looking to head out into the countryside for day trips. Here are the 3 main transport stops to know about:
OCC Bus Terminal (maps) | The bus station between all the bigger cities. You’ll arrive here if you’re coming from San Cristobal de las Casas on one of the larger buses.
Bus To El Chiflon (maps) | About 3 blocks north of the OCC Terminal, on the same street you’ll find the bus to El Chiflon Waterfall. The name of the station was Rapidos de la Angostura. The colectivo I took was heading towards Tuxtla via Tzimol and Villa Las Rosas. If you ask someone at the station or one of the drivers, they’ll point you to the right bus.
Transporte Montebello (maps) | This is where you’ll catch the colectivos to Lagunas de Montebello. The station is located on Segunda Avenida Pte. Nte. 23 and the corner of 2a. Calle Sur Pte. Buses didn’t seem to have a strict schedule but left within a reasonable time.
WHERE TO STAY IN COMITAN DE DOMINGUEZ
Comitán is still considered a relatively hidden place compared to more popular Mexico destinations. Because of that, you won’t find any major international hotels and English isn’t as widely spoken.
Most accommodations are situated within a few blocks of zócalo and are located in colonial-style haciendas. Expect quite a few family-run businesses with the odd small-scale modern hotel.
Here are some of my recommendations:
- La Alborada | A budget-friendly option within a few blocks of Benito Juárez Square.
- La Casa del Marqués | A gorgeous hacienda-style hotel with a beautiful, artistic courtyard. The rooms are reminiscent of colonial times.
- Hotel Casa Delina | A wonderful mid-range option, with modern rooms in a traditional hacienda building.
- Collection O Corazón Del Café Hotel Boutique | The luxury option in town, it’s situated near the main square and has comfortable beds inside modern rooms.
For more options in Comitán check here.
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