Along the Albanian Riviera, Himara (Himarë) awaits with its jagged seaside cliffs and bright blue waters.
It’s a small Mediterranean town with a lively Greek influence and a plethora of wild olive trees dotting its hills. Soft white sand beaches run along the coast, and fishing boats float listlessly on the calm sea. Castles old and new are just a hike away, and local restaurants’ amazing food is second only to their sunset views.
It’s a place where a 3-day visit might turn into a 13-day stay. And, in my mind, it’s the coolest town on the Albanian Riviera.
In this Himarë guide, I’ll share a few tips on where to eat and what to do, plus ideas for day trips so you can get the most out of your trip to the Riviera.
Here are 12 awesome things to do in Himarë, a town that became an especially memorable experience on my Albania travels!
Walk Up The Hill To Himara Castle
It might be a bit strenuous on the legs, but the walk up to Himarë Castle is well worth the effort.
The zig-zagging old streets and high stone walls seamlessly merge with an upper castle that overlooks the scenic Albanian coastline. Plants grow from abandoned buildings, and sunlight peaks through holes in the ancient fortress.
When you emerge at the top, you’ll find yourself gazing out over Livadhi Beach and the glimmering waters of the Mediterranean Sea.
If you’re into history, you’ll find a site that traces its origins back thousands of years. Many of the current structures and churches you see today remain from medieval times, but the area as a whole predates classical antiquity.
If you want to escape the beach or take a trip to the past, the Himarë Castle is a perfect place to spend an afternoon.
Here are some highlights from a wander around the castle, aka Himarë Old Town:
St. Sergius’ and St. Bacchus’ Church | A historic church that has been declared an Albanian cultural monument. It once served as the seat of the Bishop of Himarë and shows traces of being rebuilt several times throughout the years.
Café Butterfly | A wonderful cafe that has delicious homemade desserts and serves decent coffee and drinks. It also has a spectacular view.
Holy Church of All Saints | Sitting near the bottom of the old town, the church is known for its beautiful, singular tower. It also has a school connected, which means it’s closed off to the public most days.
Lounge Around At Livadhi Beach
Underneath the towering Himarë Castle, sits the beautiful Livadhi Beach. It’s a bit rocky on the feet, but the beach is large and sees fewer crowds than Himara’s main strip.
The water also stays cleaner for this very reason.
There’s everything you need here to enjoy a great day in the sun, including a nearby mini market, restaurants serving simple fare, and sun loungers for rent. These should cost about 1,000 Lek (as of 2025) for two sunbeds and an umbrella.
Looking for a change of pace from the town? You can even stay at one of the campsites that run along Livadhi Beach. There were a few RVs about when I was here, plus a couple of tents pitched. This area is slowly getting privatised, though, so I’m not sure how much longer these will be open.
GETTING TO LIVADHI BEACH
If you are in Himarë’s center, there are a few ways to reach Livadhi Beach, car and bicycle being the quickest. For both, you’ll follow the same SH8 towards the castle before turning left at the Himare-Livadh road. Himara Hostel (maps) offers bike rentals, and the staff are super friendly and helpful.
You can also walk, which is my preferred option (bear in mind, I don’t mind trekking in hot weather). Beside the main road, there is a shaded hiking trail that leads to the southern edge of Livadhi Beach. It takes between 30 and 45 minutes and can be a bit tricky to find.
You’ll need to head to Petro Ruçi Stadium and find small trail signs that point you towards Livadhi. They will take you along a road behind a set of houses. From there, follow the red trail markings. If that sounds too difficult, and I wouldn’t blame you if you say yes, just look it up on Maps.Me. If you’re using Google Maps, head towards this path (maps).
Explore The Hidden Filikuri Beach
Filikuri Beach is very high up on my top things to do in Himarë. Most of that can be attributed to it being a hidden beach that can only be accessed by sea or on foot. Rarely is this ever the case, but by land is actually the hardest form of entry.
The beach is nestled between high cliffs in every direction, so the path down to it is sketchy at best. The trail is full of loose gravel and has a steep, slick, rocky floor.
There used to be a rope about halfway down that helped a bit, but it doesn’t seem to be there anymore. If you choose to walk here, definitely bring a pair of shoes with some decent traction. Also, make sure you’ve done some sort of intensive hiking or climbing, because if you get stuck, you’ll have to call for a rescue boat.
In the end, it’s totally worth it, though. You’ll arrive at a mesmerizing beach with warm translucent blue waters. In the spring and early summer months, there’s also a high probability that you’ll have the whole beach to yourself. I was here in May, and there wasn’t a soul in sight besides my partner and me.
As far as entry by sea goes, you can rent a kayak in town or head to the pier and hop on one of the boat taxis. This will be a hassle in the low-season, but during the peak months, it’s pretty simple.
Either way, spending time on the concealed beach is a special experience.
BEACHES TO VISIT ON THE WAY TO FILIKURI BEACH
Spile Beach (Plazhi i Spillese)
Himara Beach (Plazhi i Himarës)
Maraçit Beach (Plazhi i Maraçit)
Sfageio Beach / Prinos Beach / Potami Beach
Visit The Tiny Aquarium Beach
Past Livadhi Beach, along the coast up towards Dhermi, there are several hidden beaches. One of those is Aquarium Beach (Plazhi i Akuariumit), a small patch of fine sand surrounded by a rocky landscape that juts into the sea. This creates a private cove that feels like something you’d see in a movie about pirates.
Things to do here? You can take a swim in the turquoise sea, explore the water-beaten rocks, or simply soak up the Albanian sun.
If you are looking for somewhere away from the crowds, Aquarium Beach is a must-visit.
Getting There | Follow the coastal road that starts near Camping HIMARA and heads towards Jala. If you want to make a day of it, you can head further to the splendid Jale Beach and stop at some abandoned bunkers along the way.
Alternatively, you could join a boat tour like this one that includes stops at Aquarium Beach.
Wander Around The Porto Palermo Fortress
Just outside Himarë is an old triangular fortress, called the Porto Palermo Castle, that dates back to the days of Ali Pasha. It’s said to have been built in the early 19th century; however, in recent times, this has been disputed due to its location and design. So, there’s a chance parts of it are even older than that.
Now, it’s considered a cultural monument and the main attraction in the Bay of Porto Palermo. Like many other Albanian castles, it played a significant role in Albania’s history, and once doubled as a prison.
When you walk inside, it makes sense.
The rooms are dark and cold, with an eerie feel to them, and they share the same interior decoration style used throughout the Ottoman Empire during Ali Pasha’s rule.
The entrance into the castle is small, and if you look interested, you might even get a brief tour from the ticket seller. I was lucky enough to receive a small history lesson about Ali Pasha and insight into his life. Something that seemed difficult to come by during my trip.
Don’t expect this during the peak months, though.
Once you are done touring the castle, you can hop in the water just outside. The Porto Palermo Fortress is on an island that connects to the mainland by a strip of sand. This now doubles as a beach and offers a beautiful view of either side of “Panorama Bay.”
If you’re feeling adventurous, you can also join a kayaking or SUP tour from this little beach. They last up to 3 hours and include stops at a few coastal caves and a different vantage point of the castle.
Entry into Porto Palermo Castle | 300 Lek
Opening Times | Every day from 9 am to 6 pm, although I’ve heard it closes down during the winter months.
Have A Look At The Submarine Bunker
Along the road to Porto Palermo, there is a submarine bunker that appears on the side of a hill.
Like most of the bunkers in Albania, this one was built during Enver Hoxha’s presidential years. Unfortunately, you can’t actually visit this captivating tunnel like many of the others. It falls within an Albanian military restriction zone, so the only ones allowed are military personnel and the odd goat I saw roaming around.
Don’t let this spoil your time, though.
There are a few lookout points along the road that have a perfect view of the bunker. You’ll also get to see why they call this area “Panorama Bay.”
If you decide to walk to Porto Palermo, these are ideal spots for taking a break. You can rehydrate, check out the aforementioned goats wandering around the military base, and take in the scenic, clear waters and submarine bunker.
ALBANIA TRAVEL TIPS
First time in Albania? Check out my ‘Things to Know Before You Go‘ article for advice, resources, and a few pointers. You can also take a peek at my ‘Albania Travel Guide‘ for more suggestions on where to visit next.
Eat Some Fresh Seafood Along The Waterfront
What is almost every seaside town known for? The SEAFOOD!
Himarë is no exception to this rule.
You can find some truly amazing fresh bites here. The place you’ll want to first head to is the Himarë waterfront. It’s riddled with great restaurants at affordable prices.
Here are a few recommended restaurants for seafood:
Lefteri’s Tavern (maps) | A modern-feeling tavern with delicious food, great staff, and a shaded balcony. It had a real homey feel to it when I was there. It might be seasonal, so don’t expect it to be open during the cold months.
Taverna Stolis (maps) | Tasty food that reminded me of “grandma’s home cooking,” and the view at sunset is one of the best in the whole country.
ELÉA Restaurant (maps) | A wonderful restaurant that’s a little out of the way from the main strip. They have nice seafood options and great starters. The cheese kadaifi is a must-try. This is also a seasonal restaurant.
Alternatively, you can purchase some fresh-caught seafood straight from the boat. Just go to the end of the docks in the afternoon. At around 3 or 4 PM, the fishermen make their way in from a hard day’s work.
Try The Refreshing Himara Salad
While the seafood in Himarë is a must, the dish I found stuck with me for weeks afterwards was the Himarë Salad. It’s a simple mix of orange, olive, olive oil, onion, pepper, and salt. On a hot summer day, there is nothing quite as refreshing as the effortless native salad.
The locals claim that the only thing to do during the winter is to tend to their orange and olive orchards. With such an excess of these ingredients, it only makes sense to create something from them.
I won’t complain, I couldn’t stop going back for more, especially the Himara salad from Taverna To Steki (maps).
MORE RESTAURANTS WORTH TRYING
Hercules Restaurant
Taverna Vironas
Arxontiko Restaurant
Take A Day Trip To One Of The Neighboring Beach Towns
It’s fairly easy to waste away the days in Himarë; however, every now and then, a change is needed. Luckily, there’s a variety of towns and beaches just a short trip away.
Some of the Albanian Riviera’s most underrated destinations are in each direction. We’re talking small towns with beautiful old quarters, drastic views, and beaches that rival more popular spots like Ksamil and Sarandë.
Here are a few that make sense as day trips from Himarë.
DHERMI
To the north is the beautiful Dhermi, with its scenic old town and long sandy shore. It neighbors the stunning sea arches and hidden coves of Drymades Beach, forming an enchanting coastline. You can take a taxi boat for the day, or hop in a car or bus and be there in thirty minutes.
These are some things you could manage to do during a day trip:
- Relax on the popular Dhermi and Drymades Beaches.
- Explore the gorgeous Dhermi Old Town and its picturesque churches.
- Have a short hike through the historical Mills Trail.
- Take a break and fill your tummy at one of the many seaside restaurants.
If you want a more detailed look at Dhermi and what it has to offer, have a look at my ‘Best Things to Do in Dhermi‘ article.
BORSH AND OTHERS
There are dozens of little villages that dot the cliffsides, but these are the ones I’d consider most noteworthy.
Borsh |To the South is the never-ending Borsh Beach with its bright white sand and laid back attitude. At the top of the hill, opposite the main highway, are the ruins of the Castle of Borsh. It’s a quick drive away, but that road is filled with magnificent views. If you take the bus, be ready for some walking. The water is over a mile away on a straight downhill road.
Qeparo | This little village is right after Porto Palermo, and just before Borsh. It has a small abandoned house at the very top of the hill with gorgeous views, a rocky beach with a walking promenade, and wild camping nearby. Porto Palermo Castle and Heart Beach are within walking distance.
Vuno | To the north of Himarë, a bit before Dhermi and right above Gjipe Canyon (which I get to next). It’s a stunning old village, with churches to explore, a couple of nice eateries, views of Vuno Canyon, and easy access to Gjipe.
Hop On A Taxi Boat To Gjipe Beach
Halfway between Himara and Dhermi, the breathtaking Gjipe Beach appears where a canyon meets the open sea. The highlight here is, of course, the enchanting beach. However, there are plenty of other activities to do to keep you busy for the day.
When I was there, people were rock climbing the sea cliffs, kayaking in the calm sea, and snorkeling about. Small shacks with shaded overhangs offer cold drinks, and you can wander around the canyon floor or head up the trails to several viewpoints along the top of Gjipe Canyon.
If you are looking to spend the night, there is also a part of the beach that doubles as a campground. You should plan this ahead of time, though.
Unless you’re stopping by Vuno or planning to hike all the way down the Gjipe Canyon trail, the best way to visit is by boat. Floating taxis leave the docks of Himarë often during the summer, making it easily accessible.
Another option is to join a boat tour to see the whole coastline here, including the hidden Pirate’s Cave and Pigeon Cave. These usually make a handful of stops along popular beaches and include snorkeling. Here are a few worth looking into:
Snorkel In The Ultra Clear Waters
It feels like the whole Albanian Riviera is blessed with super clear water and a nice variety of sea life. I saw vibrant fish, a sometimes colorful sea floor, and a Moreno Eel directly off the main pier.
This is a spot I’d only recommend during the shoulder seasons, though, when there are fewer boats moving around. You’ll also find places like Filikuri Beach, Aquarium Beach, and Gjipe Beach to be adequate spots to dive in for a snorkel.
If you are looking for some equipment, the previously mentioned Himara Hostel offers rentals, and many of the boat tour places do too. There are a few other places around town that do as well, but I’m not as familiar with them.
I find snorkelling a great way to keep oneself occupied in the cool Mediterranean waters and see what’s underneath Himarë’s surface!
Have A Sunset Walk Along The Main Beach
Every night, you’ll notice people gathering along the main beach’s walkway. This isn’t unique to Himara either; sunset is a time to stretch your legs and take a stroll in Albania, xhiro-style.
The difference between Himarë and most other parts of the country, I found, was that it’s a town with unbelievable sunsets.
Honestly, most evenings I ended up copying the Albanians and going for a walk. The water becomes still to create a mirror-like reflection of the beautiful Albanian sunset.
A little trek along the main walkway while the last bits of light illuminate the night sky is a must here! Although I wouldn’t fault anyone who decides to sit at a beachside restaurant to have a drink.
GETTING AROUND HIMARE
Himarë is a small beach town, so everywhere is reachable on foot if you’re willing to walk. Bicycle rentals are available in town, but don’t expect the same for car rentals. You’ll want to do that in one of the bigger cities, like Sarandë or Vlorë.
As far as bus stops go, there is only one area.
Bus Station Himarë (maps) | The small stretch of street in front of the town grocery store and near Himara Beach is where to grab any bus leaving Himarë.
For any details about schedules, bus routes, and more, you can refer to my Albanian Bus Guide.
WHERE TO STAY IN HIMARE
There are really only two options for staying in Himarë: close to the beach and close to the beach, but up a hill. I stayed in places that fit both of these descriptions.
Here are some recommendations:
Himara Hostel | A social hostel with a gorgeous garden and everything you might need. They have snorkel and bike rentals too. I stayed here for a few days in a double room (which they might not do anymore) and loved it. It’s a great place for meeting people as a solo backpacker.
Amphora Guesthouse | Budget-friendly hotel in the heart of Himara Old Town. It’s up the hill, so it can get tiring to walk to, but it offers pretty special views of Himarë.
Dimitri Hotel | Set directly next to Livadhi Beach, it’s a gorgeous hotel with a pool. They offer double rooms, apartments, and suites. It’s a bit away from the main restaurant strip, but it offers a more relaxed vibe because of it.
ARXONTIKO | Modern, family-run hotel close to the main tourist part of the town. The on-site restaurant and seaside views are both spectacular.
For more options, check here.
