Along the Albanian Riviera, Himara (Himarë in Albanian) awaits with its jagged seaside cliffs and bright blue waters.
It’s a small Mediterranean town with a lively Greek influence and a plethora of wild olive trees. Soft white sand beaches run along its coast and fishing boats float listlessly on the calming sea. Castles old and new are just a hike away, and amazing food at the restaurants is second only to their sunset views.
It’s a place where a 3 day visit might turn into a 13 day stay. In my mind, the coolest town on the Albanian Riviera.
Here are 12 awesome things that made my time in Himara an especially memorable experience.
Walk Up The Hill To Himara Castle
It might be a bit strenuous on the legs, but the walk up to Himara Castle is worth the effort. The zig-zagging old streets and high stone walls seamlessly merge with the upper castle. Plants grow from abandoned buildings, and sunlight peaks through holes in the ancient fortress.
Emerging at the top, you’ll find yourself gazing out over Livadhi Beach and the glimmering waters of the Mediterranean Sea. If you are into history, you’ll find a site that traces its origins back thousands of years. The current structures and churches remain from medieval times, but the area predates classical antiquity.
If you want to escape the beach or take a trip to the past, the Himara Castle is a perfect place to spend an afternoon.
Lounge Around At Livadhi Beach
As I mentioned before, underneath the towering Himara Castle, the beautiful Livadhi Beach awaits. It’s a bit rocky on the feet, but it’s a large beach that sees less crowds than Himara’s main beach. The water also stays cleaner for this very reason.
There’s everything you need here to enjoy a great day in the sun. You can stock up at a mini market, have a quiet lunch in one of the restaurants, or hire a sun lounger for the day.
Looking for a change of pace from the town? You can even stay at the many campsites that run along Livadhi Beach.
If you are in Himara’s center, there are a few ways to reach Livadhi Beach. It’s a few miles away, so car or bike are the quickest option. They both follow the same road, and are your best option in the middle of summer. Himara Hostel offers bike rentals, and the staff are super friendly and helpful.
You can also walk, which is my preferred option (bear in mind, I’m a lover of hot weather). Besides the main road to the beach, there is a shaded hiking trail that leads to the southern edge of Livadhi Beach. It takes between 30 and 45 minutes and can be a bit tricky to find.
You’ll need to head to the stadium and find small trail signs that point towards Livadhi. They will take you along a road behind a set of houses. Then just follow the red trail markings. If that sounds too difficult, and I wouldn’t blame you if you say yes, just look it up on Google Maps or Maps.Me. They both show the exact route and might ease your worries.
Explore The Hidden Filikuri Beach
Filikuri Beach was one of my favorite places to visit in Himara. It’s a hidden beach that can only be accessed by sea or by foot. It’s rare that this is ever the case, but by land is the hardest form of entry.
The beach appears surrounded by high cliffs in all directions, so the walking path down is sketchy looking at best. The trail is full of loose gravel and has a steep slick rocky floor. There is a rope about half way down that helps a bit, but even that falls a few feet short of the beach. If you do choose to walk here, definitely bring a pair of shoes.
In the end it’s totally worth it though. You’ll find a mesmerising beach with warm translucent blue waters. In the spring and early summer months, there is also a high probability that you’ll have the whole beach to yourself.
As far as entry by sea goes, you can rent a kayak in town, or head to the pier and hop on one of the boat taxis. Most of the boat tours have Filikuri Beach as one of the stops on their agenda as well.
Either way, spending time on the concealed beach is a special experience.
Visit The Tiny Aquarium Beach
Past Livadhi Beach along the coast, there’s an abundance of hidden beaches. But, none are better than Aquarium Beach. It’s a small patch of fine sand surrounded by a rocky landscape, creating a private cove.
You can take a swim in the turquoise sea, explore the water beaten rocks, or just soak up the Albanian sun. If you are looking for somewhere away from the crowds, Aquarium Beach is a must visit.
Wander Around The Porto Palermo Fortress
Just outside of Himara is an old triangular fortress that dates back to the days of Ali Pasha. It was built in the early 19th Century, however, in recent times this has been disputed due to its location and design. But, most can agree that the final form was built at this time.
Now, it’s considered a cultural monument and is the main attraction in the bay of Porto Palermo. The unique castle, which once doubled as a prison, has an eerie feel to it. The rooms are dark and cold, and share the same interior decoration style used throughout the Ottoman Empire during Ali Pasha’s rule.
The entrance into the castle costs 300 Lek, and if you look interested enough, you’ll get a brief tour from the ticket seller. I was lucky to get a small history lesson about Ali Pasha, and insight into his life.
Once you are done touring the castle, you can hop in the water just outside. The Porto Palermo Fortress is on an island that has a patch of sand connecting it to the mainland. This now doubles as a beach, and has a beautiful view of either side of “Panorama Bay.”
Have A Look At The Submarine Bunker
Along the road to Porto Palermo, there is a submarine bunker that appears on the side of a hill. Like most of the bunkers in Albania, this one was built during Enver Hoxha’s presidential years. However, you can’t actually visit the captivating tunnel, because it’s within an Albanian military restriction zone.
Don’t let this spoil your time though. There are a few lookout points along the road that have a perfect view of the bunker. If you decide to walk to Porto Palermo, these are ideal spots for taking a break. Rehydrate, check out the goats wandering around the military base, and overlook the clear waters and submarine bunker.
Eat Some Fresh Seafood Along The Waterfront
What is almost every seaside town known for? The SEAFOOD! Himara is no exception to this rule. You can find some truly amazing saltwater bites in the stunning beach town.
The best place to head is the Himara waterfront. It’s riddled with great restaurants at affordable prices. Two of my favorites are Lefteri’s Tavern and Taverna Stolis. Lefteri’s has delicious food, great staff and a shaded balcony. Taverna Stolis has tasty food as well. The meals remind me of a grandma’s home cooking and the view at sunset is one of the best in the whole country.
If you’re looking for or a more upscale feel, I suggest Gonia Restaurant. It overlooks the water and has amazing octopus. The kataifi dish they recommended was outstanding too!
However, if you are looking to do some home cooking, go to the end of the docks in the afternoon. At around 3 or 4 PM, the fishermen make their way in from a hard day’s work. Feel free to purchase some fresh caught seafood straight from the boat.
Try The Refreshing Himara Salad
While the seafood in Himara is a must, the dish I found stuck with me for weeks afterwards was the Himara Salad. It’s a simple mix of orange, olive, olive oil, onion, pepper, and salt. On a hot summer day, there is nothing quite as refreshing as the effortless native salad.
The locals claim that the only thing to do during the winter is to tend to their orange and olive orchards. With such an excess of these ingredients, it only makes sense to create something from them.
I won’t complain, I couldn’t stop going back for more, especially the Himara salad from Taverna To Steki.
Take A Day Trip To One Of The Neighboring Beach Towns
It’s fairly easy to waste away the days in Himara, however, every now and then a change is needed. Luckily, there’s a variety of towns and beaches just a short trip away.
Two of the Albanian Riviera’s most popular destinations are in each direction. To the north is the beautiful Dhermi, with its scenic old town and long sandy shore. It neighbors the stunning sea arches and hidden coves of Drymades Beach, forming an enchanting coastline. You can take a taxi boat for the day, or hop in a car or bus and be there in thirty minutes.
To the South is the never ending Borsh Beach with it’s bright white sand and laid back attitude. It’s a quick drive away, but the road has magnificent views. If you take the bus, be ready for some walking. The water is over a mile away on a straight downhill road.
Hop On A Taxi Boat To Gjipe Beach
In between Himara and Dhermi, the breathtaking Gjipe Beach appears where a canyon meets the open sea. The highlight here is of course the beach, however there are plenty of other activities to do.
When I was there, numerous people were rock climbing the sea cliffs, kayaking, and snorkeling. Small shacks with shaded overhangs offering cold drinks lined the beach. You can wander around the canyon floor or head up some trails to several viewpoints along the top of Gjipe Canyon.
If you are looking to spend the night, there is also a part of the beach that doubles as a campground. You should plan this ahead of time though.
Either way, Gjipe Beach is a must visit while you are in Himara. Make sure to hop on one of the numerous taxi boats and spend the day bathing in the sun and saltwater.
Snorkel In The Ultra Clear Waters
The whole Albanian Riviera is blessed with super clear water and a variety of sea life. I saw vibrant fish, a colorful sea floor, and a Moreno Eel right off the main pier. If you are looking for some equipment, I know that the previously mentioned Himara Hostel offers rentals.
It’s a great way to keep yourself occupied in the cool Mediterranean waters.
So grab a snorkel and some goggles, dive in, and check out what’s underneath Himara’s surface!
Have A Sunset Walk Along The Main Beach
Every night, you’ll notice people gathering along the main beach’s walkway. This isn’t unique to Himara either, sunset is a time to stretch your legs and take a stroll in Albania. The difference between Himara and the rest of Albania though, is that it’s a town with unbelievable sunsets.
Honestly, I found myself copying the Albanians and going on a walk every evening. The water glasses over and makes for a mirror-like reflection of the beautiful Albanian sunset.
Get on up and take a little trek along the main walkway while the last bits of light illuminate the night sky!
Himara is a place that is bursting with good vibes. If you have even half the fun as I had here, you’re bound to enjoy the splendid coastal town!
