Litomyšl is a small historical town that sits amongst the hills of the Czech Republic’s lesser-visited Eastern Bohemia region. While it is well-known among Czech travelers, it would very much be considered off-the-beaten-track for tourists and backpackers.
I’ll start by saying I’ve been here on numerous occasions. My partner is from the area, and it feels like every time someone visits (including me), we end up here.
And that’s for good reason.
The UNESCO-recognized castle is simply stunning. Plus, there’s enough to do around town to keep you busy for the day, and even more so when you take into account some interesting sights in the surrounding countryside.
In this article, I share my favorite things to do in Litomyšl, including the up-and-coming food scene, where to stay around town, and why such a small town is worth a visit!
Here is my guide to Litomyšl, Czech Republic.
VISIT LITOMYŠL CASTLE
In all likelihood, the reason you’ve heard of Litomyšl is the spectacular, UNESCO-inscribed Litomyšl Castle (Zámek Litomyšl).
It’s the most popular attraction in town, and there’s good reason for that.
The 17th-century, Renaissance-style castle is truly unique, with an arcaded gallery first made famous in Italian architecture and a facade designed with sgraffito decorations.
These envelope-shaped adornments are all created differently using the scratching and layering technique. While that doesn’t seem so crazy at first glance, I dare you to try and count them. There are more than 8000 individual examples of sgraffito here.
LITOMYŠL CASTLE TOURS
There are more than half a dozen different tours available of Litomyšl Castle. These all involve taking you through the Baroque-style interior. Some examples include a tour of the castle theatre, a kitchen and tower walkthrough, and a Christmas Day tour.
Tour Prices | The cost of tours ranges from 100 CZK to 220 CZK and can be found on the Zámek Litomyšl website. It’s best to contact them in advance to see if English tours are available at that time.
Explore the Castle Grounds
Surrounding the castle is a nicely maintained garden and park that extends from the birth house of Bedřich Smetana to the back walls of the property. It’s a lovely little walk around here and a must for those who want to see all the different “envelopes” on the building’s exterior.
Occasionally you’ll find small outdoor exhibits in the park, too. The last time I was there, there was a quirky little puppet set-up for kids to play with.
On the western side of the castle, however, is the nicest part. This is a small French garden that has some funky sculptures and art pieces to go along with a well-maintained yard. It’s also the most picturesque view of the castle from this area.
VISIT THE CHURCHES AND MONASTERY GARDENS
Across the street from the castle, between Litomyšl’s two most prominent churches, are the charming monastery gardens. If you’re looking for a place to sip on a coffee or simply relax for a few minutes, this is the best spot for it.
On one side is the back end of the Piarist Church of the Discovery of the Holy Cross. This is the large, two-tower church that is a pale yellow and can be seen from the castle grounds. It’s an 18th-century Italian-built church.
The Václav Havel Square (Náměstí Václava Havla) with the fish fountain is by its entrance, and the interior is simple but beautiful.
Behind it there’s an ice cream shop that opens for spring and summer, and a bunch of interesting art and statues like the swimming pool with the Olbram Zoubek Sculpture. The walls along here give views of the Litomyšl rooftops, and oftentimes outdoor art and history exhibitions claim a portion of the grounds.
At the other end is the very pretty Church of the Raising of the Holy Cross and Presbytery (Kostel Povýšení sv. Kříže). This is a church with plenty of history dating back to its founding in the 14th century, followed bits destruction soon after during the Hussite Wars.
The Baroque design and current appearance come from later on between the 18th and 19th centuries. Nearby, but separate from the monastery gardens, is the smaller Church of the Sending of the Holy Apostles (Kostel Rozeslání apoštolů).
While it might not be as impressive as the other two, it still is steeped in history and was written about as far back as the 1400s. It sits in the Toulovcolo square.
FIND EVERYTHING SMETANA-RELATED
There are a few names that are synonymous with Litomyšl. The first is Josef Váchal, a man I’ll cover in more depth later on.
The second is legendary composer Bedřich Smetana.
He was born smack in the middle of town, just across from the castle at what is now a museum called Birth House of Bedřich Smetana. You can tour various exhibits here and learn about the man who laid the foundation for modern-day Czech music.
Entry into the museum is 100 CZK, and all other details can be found at the museum’s website.
The area around the house also turns into the popular Smetana’s Litomyšl Festival every summer. The month-long event is a celebration of music, art, and performance, and has been steadily growing since I first came to the Czech Republic. To learn more about it, plus its daily events and performances, you can check out the festival website.
But why stop there? Traces of Smetana’s influence branch out much further than his birth house. House Smetana Litomyšl (Smetanův Dům) is just around the corner.
The city’s “national theatre,” a building designed with Neo-renaissance and Art Nouveau elements, is a stunning sight to see. I’ve heard the inside is quite beautiful as well, but I haven’t been yet.
You’ll also find the Monument to Bedřich Smetana in the Smetana Square around town too. In all likelihood, you’ll come across these naturally as you wander around the center.
Don’t forget to head to the Smetana Bridge viewpoint for a bird’s-eye view of the river and Litomyšl’s rooftops.
DIVE INTO LITOMYŠL’S FOOD AND CAFE SCENE
Despite being a relatively small town in the middle of Eastern Bohemia, Litomyšl is one of the few places in the Czech Republic with a Michelin-recommended restaurant.
That doesn’t mean it’s a foodie destination per se, but there are a handful of quality cafes and eateries around town.
It’s worth noting that some of the restaurants are sporadic in their opening days, and I think that has a lot to do with the fact that the majority of visitors are Czechs with typical Monday-to-Friday jobs.
Here are some of the cafes and restaurants that I think are worth a try.
Cafes Worth Visiting In Litomyšl
Chocco Caffé | If you love chocolate, you’ll want to stop into Chocco Caffé. They have decent coffee and cakes, but where they stand out most is their delicious and wide selection of bite-sized chocolates. Each piece is beautifully made, and there are always really unique flavor combinations on display. This is the one place I go to on every Litomyšl trip.
Kafemysl | This lovely little cafe is just down the street from Chocco Caffé on the main square. They do two things exceptionally well: excellent coffee and tasty, beautiful-looking desserts. Sitting outside on a nice day with the colorful buildings of the main square in sight is absolutely delightful.
Dvorek Litomyšl | A very chic and cozy cafe that is just around the corner from the regional museum. They do nice coffees and teas and serve delectable sweet desserts and savory open-faced sandwiches.
Some Recommended Litomyšl Restaurants
Bohém Restaurant Litomyšl | The aforementioned Michelin-recommended restaurant in town. It’s listed under the Bib Gourmand award, so don’t expect a fine dining experience, but it’s high-quality food at a very reasonable price. They have a menu that rotates a few times per year and mostly focuses on regional Czech cuisine. It’s recommended to reserve a table, since it can get pretty busy.
Restaurace U Kolji | A really nice restaurant just a bit outside of the Old Town. They have a mix of traditional Czech and Ukrainian dishes. The borscht really stands out here, but you can’t go wrong with anything on the menu.
Restaurace a café U medvěda | An old-school Czech restaurant that serves classic dishes. I’m talking svíčková (the Czech Republic’s national dish), garlic soup, goulash, and bread dumplings. The
A FEW MORE SPOTS FOR GOOD MEASURE
- Makronky Diana Mauerová | For the macarons
- Café & Bar No3 | For drinks and dessert
- Zmrzlina U Řeky | For ice cream
- Caffè Delizia | Cozy atmosphere and more desserts
HEAD TO PORTMONEUM
Portmoneum, also known as Muzeum Josefa Váchala, is a house-turned-museum dedicated to the famous Czech writer and painter, Josef Váchal.
He is well known for the use of mystical creatures and occultism in his paintings, and that is on full display in Portmoneum.
In fact, the reason this house was chosen as a museum is because of a colorful, intensely detailed mural that Váchal painted back in the early 20th century. It takes up an entire room and closet from floor to ceiling, and has been continuously restored and upkept to this day.
While this is the main attraction, you’ll also find exhibits about the three men – Josef Portman, Josef Váchal, and Ladislav Horáček – closely connected with the renovated home.
There’s also a multimedia exhibition upstairs, audio guides available, and a few other unique things around the property.
If you’re looking for things to do in Litomyšl, this comes in a close second to the castle for any art lover.
Opening Hours | The museum is seasonal, so you’ll only be able to visit between April and October. From May to September, the hours are 9 am – 12 pm and 1 pm – 5 pm from Tuesday to Sunday. April and October have the same times, but are only open on weekends.
Entry | 100 CZK or as part of the city’s 200 CZK Combined Entrance Fee. Pictures and videos are not allowed to be taken inside.
For more information about the museum’s schedule and prices for students/groups/seniors, check out the Portmoneum website.
VISIT THE ART STREET
The “Art Street,” or Ulice Josefa Váchala, is probably the prettiest road in Litomyšl. It’s most recognizable for its brick-red paint, archways, and unique Josef Váchal-inspired graphics across the side of the Paseka Bookstore.
In fact, these graphics were based on Váchal’s book Blood Novel, which is considered his magnum opus. They are all in black and white, featuring sgraffito patterns similar to those at Litomyšl Castle.
Everything in town seems to honor something else, and it’s really nice to see.
The street is directly off the main square and leads straight to the Regional Museum in Litomyšl. Interestingly, the publishing company that owns the bookstore is supposed to have been a heavy influence in the renovation of Portmoneum.
RELAX AT THE MAIN SQUARE
Litomyšl’s main square, called Smetana Square (Smetanovo Náměstí), is a beautiful elongated plaza that is unsurprisingly named after Bedřich Smetana.
You know you’re in the right place if you see the Marian Column (Mariánský Sloup). These columns are a common occurrence throughout all of the Czech Republic’s town squares. They are essentially plague columns, representing the Virgin Mary and other saints to ward off disease and pay homage to those who lost their lives during epidemics.
The Marian Column is central, and around it are several shops, restaurants, and cafes, many of which I mentioned in the ‘Food and Cafe’ section. These buildings were mostly constructed in the Baroque and Classical architecture styles, and have cute, colorful facades.
You’ll notice one specific home which stand out from the rest. This is known as The Knight’s House (Dům U Rytířů), a 16th-century Renaissance residence that also houses the Litomyšl City Gallery (Městská Galerie Litomyšl). Inside is a fine art collection and oftentimes rotating exhibitions.
Smetana Square has a couple more art galleries in Galerie Miroslava Kubíka and Galerie Kroupa along it too. If you’re an art lover, these are worth checking out. Litomyšl seems to be a place that has drawn art and music to it for a very long time.
At the northern end of the square, you’ll also notice the previously mentioned Monument to Bedřich Smetana (Pomník Bedřicha Smetany) and the town’s historical clock tower.
WANDER THE OLD STREETS
What I find most impressive about Litomyšl is its dedication to making everything look pretty. This extends from the main historical sights down to small details like the park benches.
I’ve covered most things around town already, but it’s worth mentioning the last little bits I haven’t. Some other things to keep an eye out for include:
- Regional Museum in Litomyšl | The town’s museum is quite nice, and usually houses interactive temporary exhibitions to go along with the permanent historical ones. Entry is 90 CZK.
- Park Benches | Yes, I think the park benches are worth a visit. Each is decorated in some unique, artistic way. I found it entertaining trying to search for all the different designs.
- Pomník Aloise Jiráska | A monument to another famous writer from Litomyšl.
- Toulovcovo Square | The small square where the regional museum and a few other interesting things are.
- The Embankments | The walk alongside the river is quite beautiful and has been newly renovated, with several playgrounds for families.
EXPLORE THE NEARBY COUNTRYSIDE
If you’re spending more than a day in Litomyšl, then it’s worth heading out of the town to explore more of Eastern Bohemia. I’ve spent over a year in this region now, and seem to always find a new spot worth seeing.
For those with a car, you’ll have many options. For those who don’t, no need to worry. There are still a couple of places to see by train or on foot. I’m only covering nearby sights in this, but if you’re planning to visit Eastern Bohemia more in-depth, it’s worth checking out my ‘Eastern Bohemia Guide.’
Nearby Castles
You can basically drive in any direction in the Czech Republic and come across a castle within half an hour. Here are some lovely ones that are close to Litomyšl.
Rychmburk Castle | A well-maintained castle that was opened to the public not long ago. It has a well-documented history and various exhibitions, which you can check out on their website.
Nové Hrady Chateau (Zámek Nové Hrady)| It’s not exactly a castle, but instead an 18th-century manor house. It’s styled like a French chateau and is stunning, with beautiful gardens, a motorbike museum, and tours of the inside available. On the drive back, you can stop by a cute Rose Meadow (maps) if the flowers are blooming.
Castle Potštejn | One of the most popular castles to visit in Eastern Bohemia. It’s up on a hilltop and half in ruins, but still well-maintained and has an interesting history. Clock Brewery at the base of the hill is worth stopping in afterwards.
Within Walking Distance
A few things are worth visiting if you’re up for a little excursion.
White Gallery | If Pommern Museum wasn’t enough art for you, then you can head to the White Gallery on the outskirts of town. It displays some truly unique modern art installations from various Czech artists.
Vyhlídka Fajmonova Lípa | Or Fajmon’s Linden Lookout, is a small scenic treetop walk that is basically a raised platform that encircles an old linden tree. It’s in the middle of a field and is quite quirky.
VýhledNa – rozhledna kontejner | An observation tower within a container that serves as a nice viewpoint of Litomyšl.
Vysoké Mýto
Its direct translation into English is “high toll,” which has something to do with it becoming wealthy as a major stopping point on a trade route during the Middle Ages. It was also a dowry town in these times, and that prosperity can still be seen to this day.
The main square is very pretty with colorful facades and picturesque buildings. Within a few blocks of it are four historic gates, one at each corner of the Old Town. They are intricately designed, and one of them is surprisingly named after Litomyšl.
There are also a couple of beautiful churches: the Church of Saint Lawrence and the Church of the Holy Trinity. Some wonderful cafes, like Ghíčkárna and Moje Kredenc. Plus a few unique museums and picturesque buildings.
You can get here by direct train from Litomyšl. It takes about half an hour.
Getting Around Litomyšl
As a smaller town, Litomyšl is easy to navigate on foot. Most of the main sights are just a few steps from the main square, and it’s quite calm, so there isn’t much foot traffic either.
For anywhere outside the center, like the White Gallery and Fajmon’s Linden Lookout, you can reach them with a bit of a trek. Of course, having a car makes things much easier and will allow you to see all of these harder-to-reach spots in a single day.
I highly recommend renting a car to reach Litomyšl. Public transport can get you there, but there will almost always be a changeover or two from any major city. But, if you’re up for the journey, here are the places to know:
Litomyšl Bus Station (maps) | The main and only bus station in town has regional routes to/from nearby towns. You’ll have to do a changeover even from places like Pardubice, so you’ll only end up here if you want to do a trip to a nearby town. You can check timetables on the IDOS website.
Železniční Stanice Litomyšl (maps) | A small building that is a dead-end train station, meaning Litomyšl is the last stop. You can reach Vysoke Myto directly from here, but all other major spots will require a changeover in Choceň. For train tickets and timetables, check the Czech Railways (České Dráhy) website.
Where to Stay in Litomyšl
Litomyšl is a quaint town that is often visited as a day trip from bigger cities. So, don’t expect a wide range of accommodations. With that being said, there are some really nice options.
Here are a few recommendations:
Apartments Marinka Litomyšl | Gorgeous apartments in the middle of the city. Each one is equipped with a modern kitchen and working desk. The sun terrace is lovely and has views of the center.
Penzion Tašner | A nice mid-range guesthouse with double and twin rooms, plus a cute shared yard.
Hotel Aplaus | Very pretty high-end hotel with an onsite restaurant, spa facilities, and comfortable rooms.
Zámecké apartmány Litomyšl | Stylish apartments in the building just across from the castle. The interior has been modernised, but the vintage charm is still there.
Domus Nö58 | A renovated homestay with cute double and twin rooms. The price-to-quality ratio is fantastic.
For more options, check here.
