Şirince is a romantic, hillside village set in the picturesque countryside of western Turkey. Often visited as a day trip from Izmir or the nearby, historically significant Selçuk, it deserves a deeper look than the few hours people usually spend here.
I knew nothing about the town before my visit, my partner suggested we go there, and I obliged. And, her recommendation couldn’t have been any better.
The village is oozing with charm, wine cellars are around every corner and tasty restaurants dot the hills offering magnificent views of the Ottoman-era architecture. It reminded me of some of the gorgeous towns I visited on my earlier travels through Albania. If you’re a long-time reader you know just how much of a compliment that is!
In this article, I share the top things to do in Şirince, including a look at some of the best wine houses to stop in around the village. Additionally, there are tips on where to stay, what to eat, and how to make the most of a combined trip with Selçuk.
Here is my guide to Şirince, Turkey.
VISIT SAINT JOHN THE BAPTIST CHURCH
Perched above the village’s twisting streets and burnt-orange rooftops is the Church of Saint John the Baptist.
It’s a historic 19th-century complex that has been restored multiple times in its nearly 200-year history. The gutted interior isn’t so much impressive as it is serene, with streaks of sunlight bursting through its windows to dimly light the church’s nave. While you won’t find seating of any kind, there’s often local art displayed on easels along the base of the walls.
To enter, you must walk through a courtyard at its northern face with a beautiful fountain at the center. At the edge of the enclosure, you’ll also find a small cafe that serves teas and coffees and has open-air seating.
Make sure to walk around the corner of the church exterior when you’re finished peaking inside. The scenic views from the terrace are some of the best in town.
Other religious buildings in the village include:
Church of St. Dimitrios | Şirince’s other church. It’s a plain, quite neglected building on the outside and empty inside. However, the interior ceiling has some interesting frescoes and an ornate, intricately carved and colorfully painted wood iconostasis.
Şirince Cami | A small, single-minaret mosque near the bazaar. The interior has a beautifully designed carpet and simple decorations.
WANDER THE MINI BAZAAR
In the heart of Şirince, you’ll find a bustling little bazaar with a very east meets west feel similar to the markets in Istanbul, but on a far lesser scale.
You can expect some traditional Turkish souvenirs, like ornate tea sets, colorful ceramics, packets of coffee, and spices; but, also some more unique things like jams, pickled fruits, and homemade clothing. Most things here are locally produced, at least it seems that way, and there isn’t the usual pestering and clamoring from vendors.
Jewelry is another hot commodity, with a few particular things that stand out. The first is zultanite or “sultanite,” a rare gem that’s mined in the nearby mountains and sold by various shops around town.
What makes this stone so precious? It changes colors depending on the light source.
If you’re looking to purchase the gemstone here, make sure to do some research first. Most, if not all, of the shops sell unauthentic, lab-manufactured pieces. These aren’t exactly fake per se, but they aren’t the exclusively mined ones that are hard to come by.
The other place you’re bound to come across is the Demetrius of Ephesus jewelry store. Squeezed between a textile boutique and a leather bag store, the antique shop has a massive sign out front claiming to have produced most of the trinkets for the movie Troy. I can’t confirm the legitimacy of the statement or the products, but it’s an interesting place to check out just to see some of the fanciful necklaces and antiques.
Beyond that, you’ll come across more of the usual wine shops and restaurants that make up most of the businesses in Şirince.
CATCH THE VIEWS OF THE HILLSIDE HOMES
History suggests that the village was originally named Çirkince, meaning “ugly” in Turkish, but Şirince is anything but that. The whole village is a testament to the simplistic beauty of Ottoman-era architecture.
If you’ve been to any of the UNESCO-inscribed towns in Albania like Gjirokaster or Berat, this will bring back memories. Multi-story, stark white homes built in the Ottoman Christian fashion creep up the green hillside.
Şirince, like most hilltop villages, has the best views from above. All roads here eventually lead up, so if you want some beautiful scenery you’ll want to activate those leg muscles.
For most, it’ll be fine just making it up to the previously mentioned terrace by the Church of Saint John the Baptist. This, in my mind, was the best view in town. But, if you want some different vantage points, you can keep making your way up the surrounding hills.
EXPLORE THE WINE SCENE
Şirince gained popularity as a travel destination partly for its beauty, but largely for its growing wine scene. As a village surrounded by orchards and small vineyards, that’s to be expected, especially with its Greek past.
While you can find some lovely grape wines, some sweeter fruits take center stage in the quaint village. You’ll find all the typical Mediterranean flavors here, including peach, melon, blackberry, cherry, and more.
The best way to experience them all is by doing a tasting board at one of the many local cellars that line the cobbled streets of Şirince. I don’t think I walked more than a few steps before noticing the first one.
If you have some time, it’s worth walking the streets at a leisurely pace and stopping at places that catch your eye with the word mahzen in their name. This just means cellar in Turkish, and the majority of these offer tastings of fruit wine with 6 or more glasses of different fruit varieties.
Here are some of those wine houses worth checking out:
Şirince Mahzen AYOS | An open-air wine cellar with an assortment of fruit wines. The prices are reasonable and there is a nice ambiance, especially in the evening when the lights are on.
Poseidon Mahzen | A beautifully set up place that does great fruit wine tastings. They also do a nice traditional Turkish coffee if you’re looking for a caffeine buzz.
Solmissos Mahzen | A wonderful cellar that showcases some amazing local wines. They have a friendly, hospitable staff and a relaxing atmosphere.
Baküs Mahzen | Plenty of options and a great owner make it one of the best cellars in town.
HAVE A TASTY TURKISH MEAL
In Şirince, fresh produce and local ingredients come into the spotlight. The village thrives on the taste of home cooking and aromatic flavors, making it an excellent place to get an in-depth look at Turkish Cuisine.
I’m a huge fan of Turkish food and the wonderful variety of dishes you’ll see on a typical restaurant menu. And, one of the big reasons for that was my trip to Şirince. It seems to be a place that attracts chefs who take pride in their cooking, which is hit or miss in towns as small as this.
Plus, its proximity to the sea and Greek influence really highlight the Mediterranean flavors I’ve come to fancy over the years.
TURKISH DISHES TO TRY IN ŞIRINCE
Köy kahvaltısı | Or serpme kahvaltısı is a traditional Turkish village breakfast with a little bit of everything to get your tastebuds tingling.
Tarhana çorbası | A typical Ottoman soup cooked thick with a fermented mixture of flour, yogurt, and often vegetables.
Köfte | Turkish meatballs that are usually served with a piece of flatbread and a side of vegetables.
Şiş kebap | Grilled meat skewers served with flatbread, fresh vegetables, and grilled pepper.
Mantı | Small pyramid-shaped Turkish dumplings filled with meat and served with garlic yogurt and spices on top.
Gözleme | A savory pancake commonly stuffed with either herbs, cheese, local vegetables, or all of the above.
Most restaurants here have shaded, open-aired terraces with spectacular views of the village. Sitting outside in the warmer months is worth catching a breeze and taking in the town’s relaxed atmosphere.
Here are some of my recommended places to eat:
Şirincem Restaurant & Cafe Pansiyon | The go-to restaurant in the village has tasty food and a lovely atmosphere. The restaurant itself is beautiful with a charming blue theme and colorful flowers. You’ll also find plenty of vegetarian and vegan-friendly options.
Ortanca Restaurant & Cafe | Delicious manti, generous portions, and relaxing vibes, what more can you ask for? It’s also a great place to grab a coffee or tea and try a traditional Turkish breakfast.
Şirince Gülgün Ablanın Yeri | The eggplant gözleme and potato gözleme here were outstanding and the service was extremely friendly. I spent an extra half an hour just sipping on tea and enjoying the views from the patio as well.
MAKE THE JOURNEY TO NESIN MATHEMATICS VILLAGE
A stroll through the Nesin Mathematics Village is easily one of the most unique things to do in Şirince. The non-profit organization is, in fact, a mixture of three small villages focusing on mathematics, philosophy, and art respectively.
Their main goal is to carry out camps, conferences, and workshops in these disciplines while maintaining an alternative approach to learning. It’s a pretty neat idea that was started by its founder Ali Nesin in 2007.
Now, you might be thinking, what does a math camp have to do with someone staying a day or two in Şirince?
Well, it’s possible to visit for the day and see how the new-wave education is being taught on a day-to-day basis. Afterward, you can have a quick hike to the nearby Nisanyan Rock Tomb, a reproduction of the typical historical tombs found along the southern Turkish coastline.
Visiting Hours | The village is open to small-group visits from 9 am to 6 pm by simply walking up to the property. If you’re in a larger group, they ask for you to contact them beforehand. You can find more information here on their website.
Getting There | The Nesin Mathematics Village (maps) is a 15 to 20-minute walk north of Şirince along the Şirince Köyü street.
STOP IN SELCUK
All roads that lead to Şirince come through Selçuk. So, there’s a high chance you’ll have a stopover in the historic town, either as part of a day trip from Izmir or to switch buses before a longer stay.
In both instances, I suggest making a little time in your schedule to see some of the Selçuk’s highlights. The town is full of memorable sights and plays a huge part in ancient history, after all, it’s the gateway to the UNESCO-inscribed ancient city of Ephesus.
Here are some things worth visiting on a trip to Selçuk:
- Explore the historic Ephesus Archaeological Site, while learning about its cultural influence from classical Greek and later Roman times. Expect crowds, and plenty of walking, but also gorgeous sights of the theater and terraced houses.
- Visit The Temple of Artemis and see what little remains of one of the ‘Seven Wonders of the Ancient World.’
- Head north of Ephesus to have a look at the Basilica of St. John and Ayasuluk Castle. These flights give a nice look at pre-Ottoman times in the city and offer panoramic views of the countryside.
- See the unique architectural style of the Isa Bey Mosque.
- Check out the small, religiously significant House of the Virgin Mary just to the south of the city.
- Take a look at the half-manmade, half-natural Cave of the Seven Sleepers a short walk from town. When I visited the site was under renovations and couldn’t be accessed. I was only able to get a glimpse of some of the rock formations that make up the cave. A sign said the renovations would be going on until 2026.
- Grab a bite to eat or a nice cup of Turkish coffee and take it easy in the Old Town. Afterward, you can have a look at the Byzantine aqueduct or pop into one of the museums in the center.
If you’re using Şirince as your base for a trip, expect a full day of exploring to see everything. A visit from Izmir means prioritizing a few activities that catch your eye and can be reasonably done between your train departure/arrival and the bus to Şirince.
Şirince To Selçuk Bus | There is a frequent bus between the bust stop in the village (maps) and the minibus station in Selçuk (maps). The ticket cost 40 Lira or the equivalent of $1.25 (in 2024) when I was there. Prices were changing all the time in Turkey while I was there so that price might change in the future.
HOW TO REACH ŞIRINCE FROM IZMIR
The trip from Izmir to Şirince takes about 2 hours in total, with a mandatory changeover in Selçuk.
By Bus | There are a few buses a day from Izmir to Selçuk that leave from Izmir’s main bus station (maps). The bus journey takes around an hour and costs between $5 and $10. When you arrive in Selçuk you’ll need to switch to the local Şirince bus that I mention in the previous section.
By Train | The cheaper, more scenic route to Selçuk is by Turkish Railways train. It takes 20 to 30 minutes longer, but the Izmir Basmane (maps) train station is more central in the city and walkable from the popular accommodation areas. Tickets when I was there were between $3 and $5 and the trains left every hour or so starting at 6:30 am. From the Selçuk Train Station (maps) you’ll have a 10-minute walk to the bus station. From there you catch the bus to Şirince I mentioned in the previous section.
WHERE TO STAY
The village is a relatively tiny place that prides itself on small, family-run hotels and bed & breakfasts. It’s worth spending a couple of nights here if you want a more chilled-out alternative to places like Izmir and Selçuk.
Expect a warm welcome from staff and hotel owners, on-site restaurants, and a short climb to those accomodations with scenic views.
- Stonehouse | A charming hotel in an old Greek house that will surely transport you back in time.
- Nisanyan Hotel | The stylishly decorated hotel may be the most beloved accommodation in town. One of their rooms offers a chance to stay in the traditional, open-spaced rooms from the Ottoman era.
- Gullu Konaklari | Another beautiful hotel located in a historic Greek house. It has a gorgeous rose garden to relax in.
For more options check here.
