At the center of Bosnia & Herzegovina, the historic town of Travnik stands still in time. Once a capital city of the country and a former residence for Bosnian governors during Ottoman rule, it features an abundance of history with some of the best ćevapi I’ve ever had.
While it’s always been a go-to destination for Balkan travelers, it’s just starting to gain traction among international visitors. And, with the city being the birthplace of the Nobel Prize-winning author Ivo Andrić, a gorgeous hilltop castle, and one of the prettiest mosques in the region, it’s easy to see why.
I visited Travnik on my second trip through Bosnia & Herzegovina after a few friends recommended it and was glad I did. It definitely still feels like an off-the-beaten-path destination, which is the kind of place I strive to see when I visit countries for the second time.
Here is a list of some of the best things to do in Travnik, with tips on where to stay, which includes one of my favorite guesthouses. I also share some must-visit spots around the old town and, of course, where to find the best ćevapi!
This is my guide to Travnik, Bosnia & Herzegovina.
TREK UP TO TRAVNIK FORTRESS
Perched above the city’s stone homes and endless minarets is the impressive Travnik Fortress. The fortification is probably Travnik’s most popular site and a great way to explore some of the region’s medieval history. It’s also one of my favorite castles in the country, with stunning views of the old town and well-preserved structures throughout.
The whole fortress feels like an open-air museum, with its open courtyard lined with interesting tidbits about the local flora and fauna and a round tower that houses tons of information about the city’s past. You can spend an easy hour or so in the tower following a written timeline of Travnik’s events, as well as some unique ethnographical pieces.
Outside of this mini-museum, you’ll find some interesting sights, like the castle’s old Ottoman-era minaret, carved stone tablets, and an old sundial.
Most of the walls and items were maintained here due to the Ottoman Empire inhabiting the castle after the wars, instead of burning it down like some of the country’s other fortresses.
I suggest giving the walls a nice walk around before leaving the castle gates. There are lovely panoramas of the sloping forested hills behind and maze-like streets in front. The tiered grass yard is maintained nicely and is a perfect place to relax for a short time.
Travnik Fortress Entry | 4 KM
Hours of Operation | April 1 to September 30 from 8 am to 8 pm and October 1 to March 31 from 8 am to 4:30 pm.
EXPLORE EVERYTHING IVO ANDRIC
Travnik takes pride in being the birthplace of renowned author Ivo Andrić and it can be seen with its dedicated museum to his stories. Despite spending his childhood elsewhere, he often wrote about the city, which is quite apparent in his book Travnik Chronicles.
The Ivo Andrić Museum or Ivo Andrić’s Birthplace Memorial Museum (maps) is located in his former household and, despite its small size, is a wonderful little museum with various articles relating to the author.
Most of his books are on display, including around a dozen variations of his popular The Bridge on the Drina novel. Plus, there are a few translated works that are for sale in the front.
If you’re a fan of Ivo Andrić, this is a must-visit, but even if you haven’t read anything by him, I suggest heading to the museum to learn about his life. He’s an interesting person and there are informational cards (in English) around the main room of the museum sharing his story.
The curator is also super friendly and helpful if you have any questions.
Museum Entry | 4 KM
Note | The curator isn’t always at the entrance. If this happens when you’re there, just ask someone at the downstairs restaurant.
Connected to the museum, on the bottom floor, is a wonderful restaurant and cafe. They do nice cocktails and coffee, while the chilled-out vibe is extremely welcoming. Just outside the front, you’ll find some unique sculptures like that of an elephant that looks like it’s practicing ballet.
Speaking of sculptures, the realistic-looking Ivo Andrić Sculpture on Bosanska Street is worth stopping at too. At first glance, it actually looks like a person sitting on a bench, but I promise, it’s just a really well-done replica!
Fittingly, the “author” is seated right outside of the city library.
RELAX AT PLAVA VODA
Underneath the eastern walls of Travnik Fortress, you’ll find a large, slender spring known as Plava Voda. It’s only about 350 meters long but it’s a place people love to gather, especially in the warmer months, to feel the cool temperatures emanating from the spring’s chilly water.
I found this area of town to be extraordinarily relaxing. The stream is separated into a few parts by tiny, man-made waterfalls and is straddled by a walkway lined with benches.
At the base, a few shaded restaurants offer classic Bosnian fare like ćevapi, pljeskavica, and grilled freshwater fish. The shaded seating areas hug the small rapids of Plava Voda and are filled with blooming flowers and the noise of flowing water. While I find there are better options for food in town, these places are a great spot to grab a traditional coffee and wind down.
Past the restaurants, you’ll find a few shallow pools teeming with fish. I’m not entirely sure, but I think this is where they collect the fish served for eating. A few souvenir stalls selling small trinkets and kids’ toys can also be found here. As you walk further up the stream it empties until it’s just a lonely bench and a water spillway from the hill.
Fun Fact | Plava Voda translates to “Blue Water” and is Travnik’s main source of drinking water.
EAT SOME CEVAPI IN OLD TOWN
Does Travnik have the best ćevapi in Bosnia & Herzegovina? I think so.
I have a few friends in Sarajevo that would object. But, there’s no doubt in my mind that they’d at least give the city the recognition it deserves. With that being said if you haven’t tried ćevapi by now, this is the place to do it!
The go-to place here, and a restaurant that was mentioned to me by friends and the local family that hosted me, is Ćevabdžinica Hari. It’s a rather large eatery with a simple menu that revolves around its mouthwatering ćevapi. The minced meat is light and flavorful, while the bread it’s served with is fluffy and fresh.
An order includes the meat, bread, and chopped onion. If you’re up for a little extra I suggest adding kajmak. They also do a nice, simple salad for the side and delicious grilled sausages. For some spice, feel free to ask for a pepper.
Ćevabdžinica Hari is located in the old bazaar, right along the riverside. This isn’t the only ćevapi restaurant in town there are a few more nice spots within the bazaar that are worth going to if you want to do a comparison.
Ćevabdžinica Tenić is just next door and is seen as Hari’s almost equal. Around the corner is our guesthouse owners’ second favorite–Ćevabdžinica “KARALIĆ.” Their suggestions were always great, so even though I didn’t make it here, I feel confident suggesting it.
For all other local cuisines, I recommend a lovely family-run restaurant called Bistro Lovac. I enjoyed a tasty goulash here and the view of Haji Ali-Beg’s Mosque and the clocktower from the outside patio was pleasant.
POP INTO TRAVNIK’S OTHER MUSEUM
I’ve already mentioned two of Travnik’s three museums–the Ivo Andrić Museum and the small museum within the fortress. But, the Native Museum Travnik is also worth visiting if you’re looking for some extra history lessons about the region.
It’s a place that’s hard to miss, especially after seeing the giant, free-standing train that sits just outside its doors. Inside, you’ll find permanent displays that range from natural history collections to ethnographic exhibits to historical artifacts that share the history and findings from Travnik through the ages.
Don’t expect anything too impressive here, but it’s a nice visit if you’re looking to escape the heat and take a trip through Travnik’s past.
Entry | 4 KM
Working Hours | Weekdays from 9 am to 3 pm and weekends from 10 am to 2 pm.
Afterward, you can head through the municipality park to see the unique Travnik Flower Clock that graces a small hill on the lawn.
SEE THE ORNAMENTED MOSQUE
If the fortress is the main attraction in Travnik, the Ornamented Mosque is a close second. Aptly named, the mosque is bursting with color and highlighted by its intricately painted exterior designs and lovely tree etchings.
The entrance is a breathtaking wooden door decorated with geometric floral patterns and brilliant zigzagging lines. A frame combining shades of blue and green with vintage botanical elements surrounds the doorway. I believe the rest of the external windows were probably designed to mirror the entrance because they have a similar look.
When I was visiting a procession was going on, so the mosque ended up being closed for most of the day. So, I was only able to get a glimpse of the interior, but from all accounts, it looked very beautiful. If I find myself visiting Travnik on another occasion, I’d like to explore it more.
On the bottom floor and around the outer base, what feels like a small market appears with a few inviting, traditional-looking shops. Some interesting art pieces can be found here, along with jewelry, trinkets, handicrafts, and an Ottoman-style cafe.
I ended up spending about an hour in the outside yard, hanging out by a thin pool filled with fish and underneath some shaded trees. From here you can get a better look at the ornamental designs. When you’re in the front too, you can see one of the city’s two clock towers just across the street.
CHECK OUT TRAVNIK’S OTHER RELIGIOUS BUILDINGS
Due to its Ottoman history, there’s no shortage of mosques sprinkled around Travnik. This is especially noticeable as you wander the streets of the old town or have a look down at the city from the walls of the castle.
There are more than a dozen in total and like the rest of Bosnia & Herzegovina, a few churches sit alongside them. While the Ornamented Mosque rightfully gets most of the praise from Travnik residents (at least the ones I met), I feel like some of the other religious buildings deserve a visit too.
Here were the places that, in my eyes, stood out:
Haji Ali-Beg’s Mosque | The single minaret mosque is hard to miss, with a bright green rooftop, stark white walls, and green and yellow trim. Standing next to it, in the gardens, is one of the city’s iconic stone clock towers (Sahat Kula). The current mosque was built on top of another that was burned down in the 1850s and the graveyard behind it has 18th and 19th-century tombstones and was used as a burial site for soldiers belonging to the Army of Bosnia and Herzegovina.
Lukačka Mosque | Another beautiful mosque that’s just a few blocks away on the same street as Haji Ali-Beg’s Mosque. There seems to be a color theme in the city as this has similar white exterior walls and an eye-popping green trim. The front door of the mosque is gorgeously painted and the interior is simple and clean. It was first built in the 17th century but was later rebuilt after a fire.
Varos Mosque | A small, colorful mosque with red exterior trim that can be seen from atop the fortress.
Catholic Church of St. John the Baptist | The captivating pale pink church has a monument of Ivo Andrić sitting in front of it and looked especially beautiful when I saw it against the dark, cloudy sky. It’s also nearby some places worth checking out.
A few steps away you’ll find a couple of intricately painted tombs belonging to historical viziers. Across the street from the gazebo-like structures, you’ll see one of the oldest structures still standing in Travnik, a small cemetery with a historic doorway.
GET TO THE GREAT OUTDOORS
As you wander the streets of Travnik, you’ll notice the backdrop is a network of lush green mountains that stretch along the northern edge of the city. One of the country’s many ski resorts, Vlašić, is in these parts and just a short drive away.
If you’re visiting in the winter it’s worth looking into, but even in the summer, you can access the surrounding area for some easy hiking and spectacular views. The whole region around Vlašić is known for its beloved cheese as well as the popular tornjak dog breed. I’m also told it’s the best spot for sunset if you happen to have a car.
Another great place to access hiking trails is behind the Travnik Fortress on Varoš Street. There’s a walking path that runs north and up the mountains to the small Chapel of St. John the Baptist (Kapelica Svetog Ivana Krstitelja). It takes around an hour to hike and at the end, you’ll be treated to wonderful views of Travnik along the valley floor.
Hiking Tip | Whenever you’re hiking in Bosnia & Herzegovina, it’s best to stay on the trails. While this is good practice for trekking just about anywhere in the world, it’s even more so in a country that was so heavily contaminated with land mines in recent history. There have been significant, impactful efforts to remove the mines, however, it’s always worth keeping in mind and being aware of any signs in the area.
DAY TRIP TO JAJCE
If you find yourself in Travnik for more than a couple of nights, I suggest taking a day to explore one of Travnik’s prettiest neighboring towns – Jajce! The former medieval hilltop city exudes charm and is highlighted by a picturesque waterfall that dives from its base into the valley below.
While I’m all about slower travel, I think a day is a reasonable amount of time to see Jajce’s top highlights, especially if you have your own vehicle. Even if you don’t, it’s worth making the hour-and-a-half bus trip to visit a place that’s beauty’s sure to stick in your mind.
What to do on a day trip to Jajce:
- Head up to the castle complex for a short tour through the town’s history and excellent views of the surrounding forested hills. You can visit medieval catacombs, the well-preserved remains of the fortress, and a small, interesting ethnographic museum.
- Find the best views of the Pliva Waterfall, the main attraction and one of the coolest waterfalls in the Balkans.
- Wander the old town to explore some more historical sights and stop for a bite to eat in the center.
- Head over to the Pliva Lakes for a refreshing dip in the vibrant green waters. Between the lakes is a photogenic wooden footbridge called the ‘Bridge of Love’ that crosses between a canopy of trees that grow within the waters.
- Keep following the shores of the lake until you reach the Jajce Watermills, a collection of old wooden watermills once used by local farmers but now stand as a cultural monument.
Getting There By Public Transport | A few local bus companies run a route that connects Travnik and Jajce. It’s best to ask about the schedule at the Travnik Bus Terminal so you know about times coming back from Jajce.
Alternatively, you can check out FlixBus, as they sometimes have routes using Globtour Međugorje buses. The Jajce Bus Station (maps) is less than five minutes from the town.
For a more detailed look at Jajce check out my ‘Guide to Jajce’ article.
GETTING AROUND TRAVNIK
I ended up walking everywhere after I arrived in Travnik. It’s a compact and easy-to-navigate city on foot, with all the main highlights within a few minutes from one another. However, there are some steep hills, so if trudging up to the fortress sounds like a pain, you can always hop in a taxi.
As far as getting to Travnik goes, there is only one major major bus station in town.
Bus Station Travnik (maps) is small but handles all the major destinations around Bosnia & Herzegovina. There are lines between Travnik and places like Jajce, Mostar, Sarajevo, and Banja Luka running to and from here.
I always try to buy my tickets in person if I can, but I’ve also used FlixBus and GetByBus to purchase tickets in the past. Both of these sites are essentially middlemen for Bosnian bus companies, but I found them reliable at the time and a good way to see route schedules online.
WHERE TO STAY IN TRAVNIK
Travnik is a small, navigable town, with most lodging options within walking distance of the main sights. Expect great hospitality among the various guesthouses and apartments. Most accommodations are family-run and offer a place to cook. Here are some places worth checking out:
Apartment Lami | A well-equipped apartment with lots of space. My partner and I spent a few nights here and rated it as one of our favorite stays ever. The hosts were absolutely amazing, and they welcomed us like family!
MALM Travnik | A modern apartment that’s well-rated and priced accordingly.
Downtown Apartment Travnik | Extremely well-located modern apartment.
For more options check here.
MORE GUIDES FROM BOSNIA & HERZEGOVINA:
